F, FF, and so on). And European bra brands progress straight through the alphabet (A to H). So for U.S. and U.K. brands, a five-inch difference is a DD, but for European brands, it’s an E.
Fortunately, you don’t have to remember all of this: when trying new brands, reference both the brand’s in-house size chart as well as the International Bra Cup Size Conversion Chart here, where you’ll find comparisons of U.S., U.K., and European sizes.
Here’s where things get even more tricky, though, because there are two major schools of thought when it comes to finding your bra size: the Classic Method and the New Method (also known as the Plus Four and the Plus Zero methods, respectively; see “Bra Sizing Schools of Thought”). The style you use will depend on the bra brand you wear. There is very little consistency in the lingerie industry, partly because every bra company chooses the sizing method they prefer. While it is confusing to learn both, having them in mind will help you be a better bra shopper and find the bras that work best for you.
Very generally speaking, bra brands for DD and above cups will use the New Method (that is, your exact underbust measurement for your band size), while bra brands specializing in A to D cups will use the Classic Method. You’ll know which method the brand uses if you check the fitting or sizing section on the company website or if you ask the salesperson in a bra boutique or department store. While it may seem unnecessary to know both, it’s important to remember that bra sizes aren’t static, and the size you wear often depends on the brand. This is why it’s entirely normal to have two or three different sizes in your bra drawer and for them all to fit perfectly.
The most important takeaway I want you to have from this section is that, no matter what bra size you wear and no matter what sizing system you use, all bra sizes are normal and okay. Even if you’ve been frustrated before, there’s a good chance someone, somewhere is making the bra of your dreams—and being aware of all this information about sizing can help you find it.
Sister Sizes
As you now know, your bra size is essentially shorthand for two separate measurements: your overbust and your underbust. Said another way, your bra size is a rough estimation of your breast volume, that is, the amount of space your breasts would occupy if they weren’t attached to your body.
A sister size is when the band and cup size of your bra changes but the cup volume (the amount of breast tissue the bra can hold) remains the same. Because sister sizing gives you more bra options to choose from, knowing this can be helpful if you wear a hard-to-find size or have special fit concerns, such as a flared rib cage or skin sensitivity.
PLUS SIZE VERSUS FULL BUST
As you’ve likely noticed, the lingerie world has a lot of unique terminology. When you’re bra shopping, keep in mind the difference between plus size and full bust. Many brands use those terms interchangeably, but they mean two very different things, and understanding that difference can help make bra shopping much easier.
Plus size usually refers to a band size of 38 or above. Although some plus-sized bra manufacturers make band sizes as small as 34 or 36 (because a rib-cage measurement of thirty-six inches is very different on someone who’s five feet tall versus six feet tall), most bra retailers won’t refer to a bra size as plus size until it passes that 38–40 band mark. If you’re plus-sized, you want to buy from retailers who specialize in that size range, because those brands really know their stuff about plus-sized bodies. They’re specialists and experts, and they will make the best-fitting and highest-quality bras for your size.
Full bust refers to a cup size of DD or above. That DD cup mark is usually the point at which a bra’s pattern and style must change to accommodate the needs of a larger, heavier bust. That point is called a size break, and there is another size break around the H cup mark. While it can be frustrating to have to buy bras from specialty brands when you have a fuller bust, they are worth investing in because those companies use fabrics, wires, patterns, and finishes specifically designed to make the very best and most supportive bras for larger cup sizes. Don’t set yourself up for disappointment. Go to the experts for your size first.
To find your sister size, go up a band size and down a cup size if you’re looking for a larger band, or up a cup size and down a band size if you prefer a smaller band. For example, this is the lineup of sister sizes that go with my bra size (34C): 38A, 36B, 32D, and 30DD.
Knowing your sister size is useful for accommodating size and weight fluctuations. Your sister size is also helpful if bras in your “real size” are difficult to shop for, but bras in your sister size are more common (or less expensive) to buy. In particular, people with smaller rib cages and proportionately larger busts or people with larger rib cages and proportionately smaller busts will benefit most from sister sizing.
Generally speaking, you won’t want to sister size out more than two sizes in either direction. Beyond that, significant changes to the bra pattern mean you likely won’t get a good fit. For example, bras in cup sizes DD and above tend to use firmer materials and narrower underwires than A to D cup sizes; these added features are usually more supportive and more comfortable for a heavier bust. If your measured bra size is an H cup but you sister size into a D cup, there’s a good possibility you won’t get the shaping and support you might want from your bras.
One incredibly important thing sister sizing reveals is that cup size isn’t static across band sizes. Said another way, there is no such thing as a DD cup all on its own: 28DD, 32DD, 38DD, 44DD, and 50DD all have very different cup volumes. They’re each made for a completely different bra size. This is why lingerie experts will want to know your band size in addition to your cup size—DD simply doesn’t convey enough information.
No matter what the numbers and letters on the tag say, what matters most is finding the bra size that works for you. That might mean changing the size you’ve worn for years. It might even mean that you wear a different bra size than your friend or family member who has the exact same measurements. And it’ll probably mean that you have two or three different sizes in your lingerie drawer. That’s all normal. Please don’t suffer in an uncomfortable, ill-fitting bra. Cut out the tags if you have to, but wear a bra that makes you feel good … not one that makes you feel miserable.
BRALESS OPTIONS
Not everyone wears a bra, for various and personal reasons. Sometimes medical concerns, allergies, or skin sensitivity mean wearing a bra simply isn’t an option. Other times, it’s a matter of personal preference, identity, or self-expression. Whatever your reason, there are a lot of bra-free options available now that are worth knowing about.
Adhesive nipple covers, silicone pasties, breast tape, bodysuits, camisoles, and other garments with built-in bust seaming or darting can help replace a bra. These items also provide layers, which can disguise the outline of a nipple or an unsupported breast silhouette. Speaking of layers, thicker layers (such as sweaters and sweatshirts) can be useful as well, but even several thin layers (such as a crop top over a leotard) can provide a similar blurring effect.
Breast Shape
Knowing your breast shape is just as important as knowing your bra size when it comes to lingerie shopping. All breast shapes are normal, but being able to identify your particular breast shape can help you find the bras that will work best for you.
Before we go any further, I want to address breast unevenness or asymmetry. I get so many questions from people who wonder if having one breast larger than the other is normal
