plaza, and made her way back to the bar.
‘You know it’s funny,’ said David, half turning to Amy. ‘I’ve not heard any Basque being spoken. Not yet.’
‘Sorry?’
‘I’ve been in the Basque Country for two days. I’ve seen it written on signs everywhere. But not heard anyone speaking it.’
She gazed at him from under her blonde fringe – as if he was retarded.
‘That girl spoke Basque just then.’
‘…She did?’
‘Yep.’
Amy’s denim jacket was off; David noticed the golden hairs on her suntanned arms as she reached again for her glass of wine.
‘And all the guys in Lesaka,’ she said, tilting her glass. ‘They were all speaking Basque. Hence their anger when you tried talking Spanish.’
David cocked an ear, listening to the chatter of the waitress. Kazakatchazaka.
Amy was right. This was surely Basque. And yet it sounded like they were talking a very bizarre Spanish. And he’d been hearing it all along without realizing.
‘Don’t worry,’ she said, ‘it took me a while, when I first came here, to realize I was surrounded by Basque speakers. I just thought they had over-the-top Spanish accents.’ She looked beyond him – at the whitewashed church walls. ‘I think it’s because Basque is so strange, the ear and the mind can’t entirely comprehend what’s being heard.’
‘Have you learned any?’
‘I’ve tried, of course! But it’s just impossible, weird clauses, unique syntax.’ She lifted her chin. ‘Here’s an example of how mad Basque is. What’s the first phrase you learn in any foreign language?’
‘“Do you speak English?”’
‘Comedy genius. What else?’
‘…“Can I have a beer?”’
‘Exactly. Une bière s’il vous plaît. Ein bier bitte.’
‘So how do you say “Can I have a beer” – in Basque?’
Amy looked at him.
‘Garagardoa nahi nuke.’
They sat there in the sun, in tense but companionable silence. And then a gust of wind rippled the parasol. David looked left: clouds were scudding in from the west, thicker clouds were rolling down the nearest Pyrenean slope, like a white sheepskin coat slowly falling from the shoulders.
‘OK,’ said David. ‘How do we know Miguel isn’t going to just turn up here, and follow you? And hurt you. I don’t get it. You seem calm. Fairly calm anyway.’
‘He was drunk. He’s only ever hit me once before.’
‘He’s done it before?’
She blushed. Then she quickly added: ‘He usually hangs out in Bilbao or Bayonne – with the other ETA leaders. He rarely comes to Navarre, might get seen. We were just very very unlucky. And anyhow I’m not going to let that bastard chase me away.’
Her final words were defiant: the slender nose uptilted, eyes wide and angry.
David saw the conviction and the sense in her statement; but he still felt queasy and tense. Just sitting here in the autumn breeze. Doing nothing.
‘OK. Let’s go and see the churches on my map.’
Amy nodded, and rose; when they climbed in the car the first flickers of drizzle were spitting on the windscreen.
‘How quickly it changes. In the autumn.’
The rain was a majorette’s drum-roll on the car roof. David reached in the glovebox and took out the precious paper; carefully unfolding the leaves, he showed her the map that had brought him halfway round the world.
He noticed her fingernails were bitten, as she pointed at the asterisks.
‘Here. Arizkun.’
‘You know it?’
‘I know of it. One of the most traditional Basque villages. Way up in the mountains.’ She looked squarely at David. ‘I can show you.’
David reversed the car. He followed Amy’s lucid directions: towards France and the frontier, and the louring mountains. Towards the Land Beyond.
The villages thinned as they raced uphill. Ghosts of fog were floating over the steeply sloping fields, melancholy streamers of mist, like the pennants of a departing and spectral army.
‘We’re right near the border…’ she said. ‘Smugglers used to come over here. And rebels. Witches. Terrorists.’
‘So which way?’
‘There.’
Amy was indicating a tiny winding turn off – with a sign above it, just perceptible through the mist.
The road to Arizkun was the narrowest yet: high mountain hedges with great rock boulders hemmed them in, like bigger people trying to bully them into a corner. More mountain peaks stretched away to the west, a recession of summits in the mist.
‘On a clear day you can see right into France,’ said Amy.
‘Can barely see the damn road.’
They were entering a tiny and very Basque village square. It had the usual Basque pelota court, several terraces of medieval stone houses, and a bigger stone mansion, adorned with a sculpted coat of arms. A wyvern danced across the damp heraldic stone: a dragon with a vicious coiling tail, and feminine claws.
The village was desolately empty. They parked by the mansion, which was spray-painted with ETA graffiti.
Eusak Presoak, Eusak Herrira.
Beneath this slogan was an even larger slash of graffiti. Written in the traditional jagged and ancient Basque script, the word was unmistakable.
Otsoko.
Next to the word was a black stencil of a wolf’s head.
The Wolf.
Amy was standing next to David, looking at the graffito.
‘Some of the Basque kids worship him…’ she said.
‘Why?’
‘Cause he’s so perfectly ruthless. A brilliant killer…who comes and goes. Who never gets caught.’
She was visibly shivering. She added:
‘And they admire the cruelty. Of course.’
‘Miguel
