A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush. Eric Newby

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A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush - Eric Newby

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loomed up on the road in front. Wanda shouted but Hugh was already braking hard. There was going to be an accident and it was going to take a long time to happen. I wondered whether he would swerve off the road and whether we should turn over when he did. He shouted to us to hold on, the wheels locked and we went into a long tearing skid with the horn blaring and all our luggage falling on us, pressing us forward on to the windscreen, everything happening at once as we waited for the smash but instead coming to a standstill only a few feet from whatever it was in the road.

      There was a moment of silence broken only by awful groans. We were fearful of what we should see but the reality was worse than anything we imagined. Lying in the road, face downwards, a shapeless black bundle covered with dust, was one of the nomads. He was an old man of about seventy, blackened by the sun, with a cropped grizzled head. Something had run him down from behind and his injuries were terrible; his nose was almost completely torn off and swelling up through a tear in the back of his shirt was a great liquid bulge; but he was still conscious and breathing like a steam engine.

      We wrapped him in a blanket, put a big shell dressing on the maw where his nose had been, stopped the bleeding from the back of his head and wondered what to do next. We dared not move him off the road because we had no idea what internal injuries he had, nor could we give him morphia because it seemed certain that his brain must have been injured.

      Now the men of the tribe came running, attracted by the lights. They were followed by the children and then by the women. With the women came the man’s wife, a windswept black-haired creature of about thirty, who flung herself down in the dust with a jangling of gold ornaments and set up a great wailing. The rest stood in a half-circle in the light of the headlamps and looked at us silently.

      At the same moment a jeep arrived, full of soldiers. One of them was a doctor who spoke English. It seemed a miracle.

      He lifted the shell dressing and winced. Then he saw the great blue swelling, now growing bigger.

      ‘You must take him to the camp.’ (There was a military camp five miles back on the road.)

      ‘But if he’s moved he may die.’

      ‘He is going to die. You see that’ – he pointed at the bulge – ‘haemorrhage. He may live till morning. He is strong old man but there is nothing to do.’

      ‘You will come with us?’

      ‘I am going to—’ (He named a place none of us had ever heard of.) ‘It is you must take him.’

      We told him that we were going to Persia. Still we did not realize our predicament.

      Then it came, like a bombshell.

      ‘YOU CANNOT KILL MAN AND GO AWAY. THERE WILL BE INQUIRY.’

      ‘BUT WE DIDN’T. WE FOUND HIM. LOOK HERE.’ We showed him the tyre marks. They ended about seven feet from the body.

      ‘To do such damage you must travel fast.’ He pointed to the crushed offside wing, legacy of Hugh’s encounter with a London taxi. ‘But do not worry, he is only nomad. I am sorry for you.’

      His men helped us place the wounded man in the back seat. When he had gone we realized that we didn’t know his name.

      At the camp, a few huts under the mountain, there was no doctor. Nor could anyone speak Persian, French or German – only Turkish.

      ‘Bayazid, Bayazid,’ was all they could say, waving us on. With the groans of the old man in our ears and the heartrending cries of his wife from the back seat where she supported him, we drove the fifteen miles to the town.

      All night we sat under the electric light in the corridor of the military hospital, smoking cigarettes, dozing, going into the room where he was, to listen to his breathing as it became louder and louder. He died horribly, early the next morning on a canvas stretcher just as it was growing light, surrounded by judges and prosecutors and interpreters screaming at him, trying to find out what had run him down, the members of his family elbowed out by official observers.

      As soon as the man was dead, the nightmare of the day began. In a convoy of vehicles we returned to the scene of the accident. In ours was a Judge, who seemed hostile; a young Public Prosecutor, who didn’t; a tall Colonel with a broken nose, hard as nails like a Liverpool policeman; a Captain, who was indifferent, neither unamiable nor amiable – nothing; an interpreter, who looked as though he had been routed out of a house of ill-fame, who spoke extraordinarily bad Levantine French of a purely declamatory kind; a number of really smelly policemen and two or three soldiers. Apart from the Interpreter, the Prosecutor spoke a few words of French but tried hard with them; the Captain not more than a dozen words of English but he was useless. All the rest spoke nothing but their native tongue. By a paradox it was the Prosecutor who seemed to offer the greatest hope. Worst of all was the Interpreter, who seemed intent on destroying us.

      ‘Vous êtes Carless?’ he inquired sardonically as I was getting into the car to drive to the place of the accident. With all the more important officials in our car, which had been emptied of luggage in order to transport them, it seemed better that Hugh shouldn’t drive.

      ‘Non, M’sieur.

      ‘Il faut que M. Carless conduit l’automobile.

      ‘Pourquoi?

      ‘M. le Juge l’a dit.

      All the way to the scene of the accident they watched Hugh like a hawk. It looked very bad for him. There on the gravel road was the long swerving mark of the skid ending practically where the body had been. The space between was already ploughed up by countless footmarks, but if we had hit the old man, the force of the blow would have thrown his body almost precisely into the position in which we found it.

      The interrogation went on right through the baking noonday heat until evening. Half a dozen times we were made to re-enact the accident; the road was measured; the nomad children were made to collect stones to mark the key points; drawings were made; statements were taken. All we could say was that we had found him and that there had been no other witnesses – the nearest nomads had been nearly a mile from the road. It was not our fault, we said, you must believe us. But then there were the men of the tribe committing perjury, describing the accident, offering flowers to the Judge; while the Interpreter, sensing the dislike that we were trying so hard to conceal, redoubled his own efforts to destroy us by garbling everything we said. Worst of all they told us that ours was the only vehicle travelling towards the Customs House from the Turkish side on the evening of the accident.

      Hugh was in a spot. The only hope seemed to be the Prosecutor, who had ordered the beating of several members of the tribe. ‘They are lying,’ he said, as he watched the policeman thumping them in the incandescent heat. ‘I am only interested in the truth. And I shall discover it.’ He was a remarkable man. But when we were alone we begged Hugh to send a cable to Ankara. He was absolutely immovable.

      ‘I’m going to see it through myself,’ he said. ‘If it comes to a trial there’s going to be the most shocking scandal at any rate. Whether they find me guilty or innocent, somebody will always bring it up. The only thing is to convince them that I didn’t do it at this stage before they charge me. Besides, what will my Ambassador think if I arrive in Persia under a cloud.’

      Exhausted we returned to the town. On the way one of the jeeps full of policemen broke down. The Judge ordered us to abandon them. No one was sorry, they were a brutal lot. We left them honking despairingly in the darkness; the

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