eyes are still bright with tears but she begins to laugh too. The laughter is spiked with sadness for both of us, but it fills the garden and drowns out the trickle of water.
Mamdooh appears in the archway that leads into the house and stares at us in mystification. I have to blow my nose and wipe my eyes.
‘Mum-reese, there is a visitor.’
‘Who can that be? Doctor Nicolas?’
‘It is a visitor for Miss.’ He tells Ruby frostily, ‘He is your friend you are seeing yesterday.’
I tell Ruby, ‘Go on, then, don’t keep your friend waiting, whoever he is.’
She skips away.
I have been the focus of Mamdooh’s censure myself. ‘My granddaughter is a young girl,’ I remind him.
‘Indeed.’
Ruby opened the front door, which had been firmly closed by Mamdooh, and found Ash and Nafouz waiting at the foot of the house steps. They were wearing their white shirts and new-looking trainers.
‘Ruby, hello.’
‘Hi.’
Ash walked up the steps like a suitor. ‘We come with my brother’s car. We take you for a tour, you know?’
‘We-ell …’ Ruby longed to go, but then she thought of leaving Iris sitting in the garden on her own and reluctantly shook her head. ‘I can’t. My grandmother kind of needs me right now.’
‘I am sorry. Your grandmother is ill today also?’
‘No, she’s much better. But she should have some company.’
Ash smiled. He really was good-looking, Ruby thought again.
‘Then this is not a problem. Nafouz?’ He beckoned his brother forward. ‘Nafouz and I, we like to take you and the lady for a nice ride.’
Ruby blinked at this. It was certainly the first time any of her boyfriends had offered to double-date with her grandmother.
‘We-ell,’ she said again.
‘Please to ask her,’ Nafouz joined in.
‘OK, then. Hang on here. I’ll go and find out if she wants to.’
Iris was sitting with the closed notebook still on her lap.
‘You probably won’t want to do this,’ Ruby began, but Iris tilted her head and looked sharply at her.
‘Whatever it is, I think you should let me decide for myself.’
Ruby told her about Ash and Nafouz and the taxi. Iris listened carefully and then her face split into a smile. When she smiled like that her wrinkles seemed to vanish and she could have been any age, even the same age as Ruby herself.
‘A very good idea,’ she said briskly. ‘I shall certainly come. Will you call Auntie for me?’
Five minutes later, with her head swathed in a white scarf and a pair of black sunglasses hiding half her face, Iris declared that she was ready.
‘You look like somebody,’ Ruby said, meaning a face or a style that she had seen maybe in a magazine, but couldn’t place.
‘I am somebody,’ Iris retorted. The prospect of the outing had noticeably lifted her spirits. She was almost giggly.
Auntie and Mamdooh came out with them. Auntie mumbled to herself and tugged at Iris’s clothes and scarf, settling them around her. Mamdooh had put his tarboosh on his head to walk down the steps, and was trying to get Iris to lean on him for support.
‘I can walk,’ Iris insisted.
Ash and Nafouz had been lounging against the wall opposite, but when they saw Iris and her retinue they stood respectfully upright. Mamdooh loomed over them.
‘How do you do?’ Iris said clearly, sounding rather like the Queen and making Ruby begin a cringe. But the two boys bowed and murmured their names and pointed to the black-and-white taxi.
‘Please to come this way, Madam,’ Nafouz said.
‘We shall be back later, Mamdooh, thank you,’ Iris said. She let Nafouz escort her to the car. She sat up in the front seat beside him, without seeming to notice the splits in the plastic upholstery and the way tongues of decayed sponge stuffing stuck out. Ash and Ruby scrambled into the back seat, where Ash raked his hands through his wing of black hair and gave Ruby a half-wink.
‘Where would you like to go?’ Nafouz asked Iris.
‘Downtown, I think,’ she answered. She settled back in her seat and drew her scarf round her throat.
The traffic, Ruby noted, was just about as bad as always.
Iris craned her head at the shop windows and the towering buildings. She was talking Arabic to Nafouz, and laughing and pointing. Ash’s hand crept across the seat and took hold of Ruby’s.
‘Cairo has changed very much,’ Iris said in English after a while.
Ash nodded vigorously. ‘Now modern city,’ he agreed.
I do leave the house of course, once in a while, but this time feels different. There is the charming but no doubt opportunist brother beside me, Ruby and her beau whispering in the back seat, the air thick with the speculative negotiations of youthful sexual activity. This should make me feel old, but it has the opposite effect.
As we turn into Sharia el Bustan I am thinking that I must discuss contraception with Ruby. I never had such a conversation with Lesley. Or if I did I have forgotten it, along with everything else. Maybe I can be a better grandmother than I was a mother.
Maybe it is the recognition that there is still something I can learn how to be that makes me suddenly feel so buoyant.
The shop windows glitter with clothes and furnishings exactly like those in shopping streets in every other city in the world. These boys – what were they called? – are proud of Cairo’s modernity, but I miss the horse-drawn caleches, the plodding donkeys, old smells of animal dung and diesel fumes and dust roughly laid with water. Just down the next street was Sidiq Travel. Xan and I carried our Queen Mary trophy along this road.
As we pass out into Talaat Harb the lights are coming on in the government buildings. Avoiding the feeder road for the Tahrir Bridge the boy swings the car left down the Corniche and a minute later we pass in front of the walls of the embassy. Once, the gardens stretched down to the bank of the Nile. Here are the trees that shaded the afternoon tea parties of my childhood. I half turn to tell Ruby this but she and the boy are murmuring together, deaf to everything else.
Now we turn left again. I know these shuttered, curving streets so well.
The boy raises one eyebrow at me and I nod.
He has me neatly pigeon-holed. He knows Garden City is where I lived, it is where most of us British lived in those days. Tended gardens, elaborate wrought-iron gates and grilles,
