of the crewmen took me up to meet the ship’s Korean captain in his cabin. The generator rumbled like an old man in a bathroom but still coughed out some air conditioning which made my back colder than a dungeon wall. The captain poured me a cold beer. The first inch put medals on my chest. There was a photograph on the cabin wall of the captain with what looked like his local kindergarten.
‘Which ones are yours?’ I asked.
‘All of them,’ he said.
‘All of them?’
‘And another coming. I love childrens.’ He said it like most people talk about pizza.
We chatted about rice, his home in Korea, storms in the Pacific and favourite ports. He wasn’t an African fan. On the way here he had discharged containers in Abidjan and Tema, picked up some containers of old cashew nut in Lomé, and was now going to Lagos to discharge hi-fi and load cotton, then on to Douala or Libreville, he didn’t know which, and it didn’t matter because he hated both. He liked Ghana. They had a good Korean restaurant in Accra. I knew it. They served me a gin and tonic there which came with a stretcher.
He walked me around the ship. I felt like royalty except I couldn’t think of anything nice to say. It was one of those ships that takes a bunch of Koreans two weeks to build. Five holds, one aft, four forward with the bridge in between. The lifting gear on number 5 hold at the rear of the ship was broken; the captain put his hand on my shoulder and told me not to worry, that the rice was in the four forward holds. The fifth hold had the hi-fi in it for discharge at Lagos, and that was where they would fix the lifting gear.
We looked at the rice, which wasn’t very interesting. How long can you look at a pile of sacks? The captain said something to a man holding a four-foot spanner who would never be clean again. I thought about showing some interest, but instead leaned on the slatted metal cover of number 2 hold and earned a first degree burn for my trouble. Moses stood by the gangway, not learning any Korean at all. It was time to blow. The smell of hot painted metal was taxing my nose’s interest in life.
I held my hand out to the captain who said: ‘You must have lunch,’ and we both turned at the same time because Moses was showing us how to get down a gangway starting on his feet and ending on his nose.
‘Moses!’ I shouted.
He was holding the car door open for me which he had done on the first day he worked for me and never since.
‘Yes please, Mister Bruce, sir.’
‘Lunch?’
‘You forget something, Mister Bruce.’
‘No.’
‘You have meeting.’
‘I have?’
‘The meeting with the man with the dog.’
‘The man with the dog?’
‘Yes please, sir.’
I turned to the captain and shook his hand. ‘Sorry, I have a meeting with a man with a dog. Next time, I hope.’
As I got in the car, I saw Moses was sweating.
‘I don’t see no woman, Moses,’ I said down my shirt front.
We drove off, me grinning and Moses shouting: ‘You go make me eat dog! Mister Bruce. I no eat um. I no eat um never.’
The port was at a standstill; only the sun was out working on the scattered machinery and the corrugated iron roofs which creaked and pinged in the terrible heat. The shade of the buildings guarded sprawled stevedores who, rather than slow broil on the hot ground, lay across wooden pallets sleeping. The Peugeot’s tyres peeled themselves off the hot tarmac.
There was no traffic outside the port. We looked left down the Boulevard de la Marina and fifty metres down the road a parked car’s engine started. We turned right and headed east into Cotonou town centre. Moses’s eyes flickered from the windscreen to the rearview.
The sun leeched all the colour out of the sky, the buildings, the people, the palms, the shrubs, everything. Through the open window a breeze like dog breath lingered over my face as I manipulated the wing mirror. A madman with dusty matted hair stood in dirty brown shorts inspecting his navel. He slumped to his haunches as we drove past and started parting the dirt on the road as if something had fallen out. We passed the agents’ offices. The air conditioners shuddered and dripped distilled sweat into the thick afternoon air.
‘He following us, Mister Bruce.’
‘Slow down,’ I said. ‘Turn left.’
Moses dropped down to a fast walking pace and the car, an old Peugeot 305, settled behind us. Vasili, a Russian friend of mine, had told me not to worry about learning about Africa, that the Africans would teach you all you needed to know. They weren’t going to teach me anything about tailing cars.
‘Left again,’ I murmured. ‘And again.’
We were back to Boulevard de la Marina, still with our tail. Three cars slicked past in front of us heading into town.
‘Take them,’ I said, and Moses’s foot hit the floor.
We were past one car when a truck pulled out from the left, past two by the time its driver saw us. Moses didn’t bother with the third car, which would have put us through the radiator grille of the truck, but with his mouth wide open preparing to scream, he swung between the second and third cars and went up on to the pavement where he took out two frazzled saplings, snappety-snap, and overtook the third car on the inside, crashing back on to the road just in time for the roundabout which he took more briskly than he intended.
Behind us, the truck had slewed and stopped across the road, the second car was now facing the other way and the tail was up on the pavement with the car’s cheekbone crumpled into a low concrete wall. Cyclists sizzled past giving the scene the eyes right.
‘We lose him?’ asked Moses.
‘You lost him,’ I said, straightening my eyebrows.
We came into the centre of town, which, far from being free of lunchtime traffic, was jammed with cars moving at the pace of setting lava with half a million bicycles swooping in and out of them like housemartins. In the mid-seventies the President had announced a Marxist-Leninist revolution and forged links with the People’s Republic of China who built a football stadium and then took the opportunity to sell the Beninois a lot of bicycles. All that remained of the old regime were some battered hoardings with Marxist slogans like La lutte continue, which had now become the white man’s battlecry as he tried to make money in a difficult world.
We crawled past the PTT waiting to get on to Avenue Clozel and I noticed a tickering sound from the car when it was moving which must have come from Moses’s off-piste run. A man with brown, decaying teeth put his head in the window and tried to sell me a stick which he said would keep me hard all night. I asked him if I had to eat it or put in my pants and he said all I had to do was hold it and I told him it would cramp my style. Moses said I should have bought it and
