more delicious), beet greens that can be exchanged for kale or chrysanthemum greens, a fat slice of Oaxacan egg-infused bread spread with butter and sugar that is equivalent to a brioche, a tiny dollop of tamarind paste that could double as dried apricots or plums and adds umami to a chicken marinade or baked winter squash. Watch for the Try This key to recipe variations throughout the cookbook.
As a centerpiece, I profile five of the eastside’s most inspiring and creative food makers: Sumi Chang, master baker and founder of Pasadena’s Europane; Minh Phan, inventive creator of porridge + puffs in Filipinotown; and brilliant home cooks Mario Rodriguez, Rumi Mahmood, and Jack Aghoian. I hope that the sampling of their recipes, ingredient resources, and food journeys throughout this book will inspire your cooking repertoire as they have mine.
Cooking has led me to connect with new neighborhoods and cultures, and it is this sense-filled passage that has continually energized me on my journey to become a confident and proficient cook. L.A.’s eastside is truly an area rich in deeply-rooted cultures, and its food echoes this variety, yielding an amazing number of choices, from an emerging small-farms community in Altadena to several high-quality Armenian, Mexican, and Asian markets. There are elegant cheese stores, excellent bakeries, and a fair share of farmers’ markets. Most are one-of-a-kind businesses where the owner’s pride is evident in the quality of the merchandise.
I also understand that to be a true urban forager, deep curiosity must override fear and self-consciousness; the desire for learning takes precedence. I find myself in the optimum state of the beginner’s mind as I push myself into markets where ninety percent of what I see is a mystery. In many foraging expeditions, my puzzled face becomes an invitation for acts of kindness and welcome in the stores I enter. Without fail, I am approached by a variation on the nonna/grandma/bà nội, whose knowledge of a particular cuisine is as deep as her desire to teach. Whether you live in a big city or small town, your explorations will undoubtedly yield similarly satisfying discoveries, culinary treasures, and connection.
I hope that each one of you will find your delight by exploring this collection of ideas, recipes, and resources that originated from my personal history—one that continues to deepen and evolve through my city’s growing community of generous and inspiring food makers.
Nothing feels better than making a delicious meal, slowly and with care, and then sharing it with others.
Getting Started: An Appeal for Planning
Over the past few years, I have found ready-made food to be less and less satisfying compared with homemade dishes. While homemade can mean more work, the benefits far outweigh the time required. Let’s consider two scenarios.
SCENARIO ONE: THE READY-MADE DINNER
What you do: Purchase roasted chicken, boxed pilaf, frozen peas, salad in a bag, and bottled ranch dressing after work for dinner that evening. (Note: For a family of four there will be no leftovers, as most precooked chickens are on the small size. They are rarely organic.)
Total time: 45 to 60 minutes (includes driving to the store, selecting food, waiting in line, driving home, cooking the peas and pilaf).
CALORIE COUNT: 600 to 1,200, depending on number of servings.
SCENARIO TWO: DINNER MADE BY YOU
What you do: The day before your evening meal, you purchase one organic roasting chicken, butternut squash, a fresh lemon, and two heads of organic red leaf lettuce. You have on hand olive oil and vegetable oil, sherry vinegar, soy sauce, long-grain rice, butter, black pepper, garlic, and canned chicken broth.
That day or evening, you marinate the chicken pieces in a mixture of vegetable oil, soy sauce, crushed garlic, salt, and lemon juice and store in a Pyrex container. You halve the butternut squash, seed each half, brush with olive oil, add salt and store in the refrigerator until ready to cook.
The day of dinner, you roast the chicken and bake the squash at the same time. You make a double recipe of vinaigrette with olive oil, garlic, sherry vinegar, and salt and pepper. And you make a double recipe of pilaf by adding a tablespoon of butter to the saucepan, adding the rice, and cooking until golden, then adding hot chicken broth and simmering on low heat for 15 minutes.
TOTAL TIME: 55 minutes (includes shopping and active cooking time, prep the night before, and final steps the day of the evening meal. It does not count the roasting time, which requires none of your attention except to check for doneness).
CALORIE COUNT: 450 to 900, depending on the number of servings.
As this chicken is larger, you should have enough cooked chicken and rice for a second one-dish meal, such as chicken and rice soup (for four), chicken salad (for four), or chicken enchiladas (for four), thus saving time, energy, and $$$, as well as being assured of the quality of the ingredients.
NOW, COMPARE THE SCENARIOS
There is little difference in time expended; rather it has more to do with planning. Imagine how much better you might feel at the end of a workday knowing that most of dinner is waiting for you. All you have to do is roast the chicken and the squash while you relax, change your clothes, help your kids do their homework, take a walk—anything but wait in line at the supermarket at the busiest time of the day. Leftovers are transformed and elevated into a completely new meal on night two. Enough said.
WHAT TO KEEP ON HAND
Once you become more secure with cooking techniques, you will waste less and might even find yourself experimenting more freely with ingredients. I have learned from years of cooking for myself, my family, and friends that certain ingredients are key to many dishes. Having these “food tools” on hand allows me to be creative without a great deal of effort or last-minute running around. The list below is designed to help you develop your own kitchen as a place for inspiration, confidence, and readiness.
ON THE COUNTER
Avocados
Bread, homemade or from a great bakery
Citrus fruits, including lemons and limes
Garlic, ginger, onions, shallots
Potatoes of various types, yams
Stone fruits such as peaches, apricots, plums
Tomatoes
IN THE REFRIGERATOR
Butter
Cheeses: whole parmesan, gruyère, goat, jack, manchego, cotija, feta
Crème fraîche, mayonnaise, and yogurt
Eggs
Fruits and vegetables requiring refrigeration, such as lettuce, fresh herbs, and summer squashes
Masa for tortillas
Mustards: Dijon and yellow
Whole milk, buttermilk, and cream (avoid ultra-pasteurized; much of the good bacteria that creates cultured-milk products, such as crème fraîche and yogurt, are destroyed)
Wine and bubbly water
Yeast
Why
