Nothing More Comforting. Dorothy Duncan

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Nothing More Comforting - Dorothy Duncan

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became known as the “herb of grace” because it enabled the eater to see witches and so avoid them, while the roots of the mandrake were believed to grow in human form and would shriek when they were uprooted. It was also believed they only grew under a gallows. Because the roots were much valued as a narcotic to ease pain and promote sleep, the legends say that a dog would be tied to the plant to pull it up so that the evil would possess the dog rather than the digger!

      In the Middle Ages it was from the monasteries and the monks, who were able to read the ancient Latin writings about herbs and plants and exchange them across Europe and Britain, that herbs gained popularity as healing plants. The monks, with their dedication to the sick and the poor, frequently had large herb gardens within the monastery walls and often became the physicians for their surrounding districts.

      In the manor houses of the Middle Ages, the lady of the house often developed an herb garden and a stillroom where the plants could be dried and made into medicines for her family, their servants, and any neighbours or friends who needed her assistance. In larger towns, an apothecary often opened a shop to sell herbal remedies, for only the very wealthy could afford to have a doctor in attendance, and then with questionable results!

      Herbs were grown for other reasons besides seasoning and medicines, and one of the most important was to attract bees, thus leading to a source of honey, a valued sweetener. Lemon balm was often grown near the beehives, for it was believed bees would never leave a garden in which it was grown. Herbs such as lavender, fennel, costmary, cowslips, and daisies were grown to strew on the floors and perfume the room. Pomanders were made of sponge, moss, and fruit combined with herbs and were carried by doctors and monks visiting the sick and dying. In the past, herbs were also used for cosmetics, for dyes, for warding off insects, and as a substitute for soap.

      Whether you grow your own herbs in windowsill pots or an outdoor garden or buy them as needed from markets or stores, there are several that are very popular and easy to use. These include such a stalwart as mint, chosen by the International Herb Association as Herb of the Year for 1998. The First Nations would gather a form of wild mint from stream banks to make an excellent beverage. They also ground the leaves and stems and dissolved them in water to treat nausea. Apple mint and peppermint are favourites for teas, while spearmint cuttings were brought by newcomers to use as restoratives and medicines, and today all three excel as cooking herbs when added to peas, carrots, potatoes, or roast lamb, or for making accompaniments such as mint sauce.

      Parsley has long been the most widely used herb for flavouring, colouring, and garnishing food. The fresh sprigs of curly green leaves can be trusted not to wilt quickly, and when chopped they add both flavour and colour to a wide range of dishes.

      Chives can be snipped with scissors for garnishing a dish or for flavouring when regular onions are too strong. They are ideal for salads, cold soups, omelettes, sauces, cheese dishes, and some vegetable recipes.The purple flowers can be separated into florets and added to salads for colour and flavour. Chives, like many other herbs, can also be added to soft butter to produce herb butter for bread, rolls, toast, and biscuits. Herb vinegars are easy to make as well and bring subtle new flavours to tried and true recipes.

      Rosemary is a fragrant herb with a host of uses. Dumplings, biscuits, preserves, stuffings, vegetable dishes, and meats such as ham and pork all benefit from its excellent flavour. Oregano, meanwhile, is a hardy perennial whose leaves, either dried or fresh, have a strong flavour ideal for seasoning rice, pasta, pizza, and beef dishes. Oregano is often used in Italian, Spanish, and Mexican cooking.

      Caraway seeds have a strong aniseed or licorice flavour and are an excellent addition to both savoury and sweet recipes. They were traditionally used by European settlers in rye breads, cakes, soups, stews, and almost any recipe involving cabbage .The next time you make coleslaw, toss in a teaspoon of caraway for a flavourful treat.

      When spring arrives, why not experiment with herbs? Add them to your favourite recipes; take a workshop; read a book; exchange ideas with friends and family. Join the growing trend to learn about these mystical plants that for centuries have brought culinary magic to the kitchen.

      Parsley Potatoes 1 pound potatoes

      1 teaspoon salt

      2 tablespoons butter or chive butter

      fresh-ground pepper

      3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

      1 tablespoon chopped chives, shallots, or tiny fresh green onions

      milk or cream to cover

      Peel potatoes and boil with salt until just cooked. Drain. Melt the butter in a flameproof or ovenproof casserole and slice potatoes in layers, seasoning each layer with pepper, finely chopped parsley, and chives, shallots, or onions. Heat about 1 cup of milk or cream and pour over potatoes to cover. If using a flameproof casserole, heat for about 10 minutes on a gentle heat; if in an ovenproof casserole, about 15 minutes at 350ºF. Serve hot from the casserole as an excellent companion to chicken or fish.

      Herb Butter

      1/2 cup soft, salted butter

      1/3 cup parsley, mint, or chives or

      3 or 4 finely chopped or pressed garlic cloves or

      1/4 cup sage, thyme, or basil

      Use finely chopped, fresh, green herbs for flavouring herb butter and beat well into the softened, salted butter. You may want to sharpen it with a few drops of lemon juice. Herb butters can be kept refrigerated in well-covered containers until ready to use.

      Herb Vinegar

      Sterilize some small jars and wash chosen herbs — mint, tarragon, marjoram, chives, or parsley are all good candidates. Remove dead or bruised leaves and dry thoroughly (or the vinegar may be cloudy). Fill jars with the herb. Bring sufficient vinegar (wine, cider, or malt) to a boil and pour hot over herbs. Cork or cover well and let stand for 2 weeks in a sunny spot, shaking or turning upside down daily. Remove the herbs and put 1 new leaf or small bunch in each jar. Store for a month in a cool spot and then use as needed. For garlic vinegar, use 4 cloves of peeled garlic, each cut in 2 for each quart of vinegar, and proceed as described for other herbs.

      Mint Sauce

      6 tablespoons cider vinegar or mint vinegar

      1 1/2 cups water

      1/2 cup dried mint

      2 tablespoons lemon juice

      4 tablespoons sugar

      1/2 teaspoon salt

      Simmer vinegar, water, and mint for 5 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and just bring to a boil before removing from heat. Store in small, covered bottles in the refrigerator. Serve hot or cold. If fresh mint is used, increase to 1 cup minced leaves — after simmering, strain through a fine sieve before adding remaining ingredients.

      Roasted Vegetables with Rosemary 4 potatoes, peeled and quartered or sliced

      3 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

      1/2 small turnip, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

      3 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

      1/2 cauliflower, cut into large flowerets

      10 Brussels sprouts

      Dressing:

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