One under Genevieve Janssens, in 1997 Kay approached the talented winemaker Mark Lyon of Sebastiani with a proposal to focus on vineyard work. But not as a viticulturalist. “Vineyard Enology,” as she termed it, focuses not on growing grapes but rather on making sure they contain the right ingredients to make the intended wine. Spotlight on the purple stuff, not the green stuff. What follows is largely what Kay worked out at that time and built on with my kibitzing while she directed the Vineyard Enology (VE) program at Vinovation from 2000 to 2005.
VE isn’t a prescribed methodology. It isn’t dogmatic about how the work is done, and is equally comfortable around conventional and organic/biodynamic producers. It also recognizes that what works in one site may fail in another. The focus is on results, which have at their source unique flavors of place, informed through a familiarity with wine structure, which depends for flavor depth and profundity on rich active tannin and maximum monomeric color. “Tannin is almost never the limiting factor in structural and color considerations,” opines Doug Adams of UC Davis, who has studied grape maturation for two decades. “The main issue to address is boosting color development so there is an optimal color to tannin ratio.”
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