California Coastal Access Guide, Seventh Edition. California Coastal Commission

Along the Sonoma County coast are numerous highway pull-outs and parks that provide views and access to beaches and trails. Between Jenner and Fort Ross, Hwy. One climbs to an elevation of over 600 feet above sea level, among the loftiest points anywhere on California’s scenic coastal roadway. From this vantage point the sea seems larger than ever. The Sonoma coast is unstable ground; if you look closely you can see evidence of past landslides, some of which have resulted in periodic closure of Hwy. One.

      Photograph wildflowers

      In springtime, the forest near Salt Point is brightened by huge pink blooms of native rhododendrons scattered among the redwood, Douglas-fir, grand fir, and tanbark-oak trees. Some of the rhododendrons themselves are tree-like in size. A particularly good display can be found at Kruse Rhododendron State Natural Reserve, located less than one-half mile east of Hwy. One on Kruse Ranch Road. A major forest fire burned the area over a century ago, letting in bright sunshine and encouraging the rhododendrons to grow and bloom more vigorously. Second-growth redwoods and other trees have gradually shaded the forest floor, as part of the natural succession of plant species. State parks managers have thinned the tanbark-oaks to offset this effect, however, and the floral display remains spectacular, with May being the peak month. Five miles of trails await visitors; dogs are not allowed, and the narrow entry road is not recommended for RVs.

      From late winter into spring, blue or purple Douglas iris are in bloom seemingly everywhere along the Sonoma coast. Along blufftop trails at Salt Point State Park are miniature flower gardens of golden California poppies, yellow tidytips, sea pinks, scarlet Indian paintbrush, and blue lupine. Flowers on the ocean bluffs are generally low in stature, due to prevailing breezes. For taking photos of wildflowers, a dewy, overcast morning can provide better results than a windy afternoon with sunlight and strong shadows. A delightful vantage point, with wildflowers scattered about, is reached from the main parking area at Bodega Head. Hike north on the Overlook Trail; high ground provides great views of the rocky coast and Bodega Harbor.

      Salt Point State Park

      Hike the coast

      Hiking is excellent in state and county parks on the Sonoma County coast. Some destinations, in fact, are reachable only by trail. Start at Stump Beach Cove and proceed down to the rocky beach, backed by cliffs. In springtime, pelagic cormorants nest in niches on the near-vertical walls and can be seen skimming over the water in search of fish. Hike north along the trail to Fisk Mill Cove, a distance of two miles. Or skirt south of Stump Beach Cove and take the Salt Point Trail to Gerstle Cove, about one and one-quarter miles.

      Trail north to Stump Beach Cove

      Another fine hike starts at Goat Rock within Sonoma Coast State Park. Proceed south to Shell Beach, where the choice is to either continue along the bluff to Duncans Landing or head east, up and over Red Hill, into the Willow Creek watershed. At Bodega Head, a mile-long loop trail overlooks offshore Bodega Rock, where sea lions haul out and pelagic and Brandt’s cormorants roost. Hikers can also head north via trail through Sonoma Coast State Park as far as the Salmon Creek area. Parts of the Sonoma Coast can be reached only on a docent-led hike. The Upper Willow Creek watershed, slated for eventual addition to Sonoma Coast State Park, is open to hikers on a permit basis through the nonprofit LandPaths; call: 707-524-9318. Access to the Jenner Headlands Preserve is through the Wildlands Conservancy; call: 707-328-8539 or 707-696-3263.

      See striking rock formations

      The rocks exposed along the shoreline at Salt Point State Park reveal dramatic changes through time. These rocks were deposited 40–60 million years ago in a deep marine basin located some 350 miles south of their current position. They were transported to their present location by movement along the San Andreas Fault over the last 15–20 million years. The rocks consist of sediments that were cemented together by heat and pressure. The nature of the rocks depends on the size of the sediment grains: pebbles and gravels become conglomerates, sand becomes sandstone, and mud becomes shale.

      Along the Salt Point Trail north of Gerstle Cove the layers of sedimentary rocks line the shore, with giant blocks tilted like building foundations gone askew. In fact, stone was once quarried here for use in construction projects in 19th-century San Francisco. Weathering of the sandstones has resulted in a beautiful, honeycomb-like formation known as tafoni, especially prominent at Gerstle Cove.

      Sandstone tafoni, north of Gerstle Cove

      Paddle a canoe

      Canoeing on the Russian River is a long-time tradition. Burke’s Canoe Trips in Forestville rents equipment for summertime self-guided canoe tours up to ten miles downstream with pickup and return by shuttle; call: 707-887-1222. Or you can rent a kayak or arrange a trip with WaterTreks at Jenner, either to start at the mouth of the river or via shuttle upriver followed by a lazy paddle downstream. For information, call; 707-865-2249. Canoes, kayaks, and other watercraft can be rented also from vendors in Forestville, Guerneville, and Duncans Mills.

      Other attractions

      The Bodega Bay Fisherman’s Festival, now in its fifth decade, includes a festive boat parade and blessing of the fleet in recognition of the dangers of going to sea. The event is held in April, traditionally the opening of the ocean salmon fishing season. Musical entertainment, Coast Guard rescue demonstrations, and food and wine-tasting are part of the festivities, all to benefit local community services. For information, see: www.bbfishfest.org/.

      Information about whale-watching trips and fishing excursions for salmon, halibut, rockcod, lingcod, or crabs is available at the Sportfishing Center next to Porto Bodega in Bodega Bay. To contact Bodega Bay Sport Fishing, call: 707-875-3344; for Miss Anita Fishing Charters, call: 707-875-3474.

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