Squeezing the shredded meat without water traditionally makes coconut cream, then the water is added for a second extract on coconut milk. Used to begin Thai curries (see pages 28–29), for coconut toppings and custards and other places the rich satisfying cream is appropriate. Coconut milk should have about 15–23% fat content. Coconut cream contains about 24% fat.
Eggplant There are dozens of varieties commonly used in Asia, in Thailand some common varieties include the round (1½–2 inch /4–5 cm) diameter variegated green orbs, or the long slender purple Chinese/Japanese varieties. The variegated green are used raw to scoop up spicy chili dips or simmered in green curries, where as the longer eggplants are usually cooked. Firm fleshed, smooth skin with firm stems should be present. Store loosely covered in the refrigerator.
Fried Garlic and Shallots These two favorite flavor boosters have become staples in kitchens across all of Southeast Asia. Although browned garlic and shallots can be created as the first stage of cooking a recipe, these crispy versions are used at the last moment, adding a crunch, a rich flavor and appealing look. You can make your own (see Fried Garlic, page 37 and Fried Shallots page 37). Bags, jars or plastic containers are available—the quality varies greatly. I look for those that only list shallot or garlic and oil, those with palm oil tend to have the best crunch and overall flavor. Avoid those that have flour or other starches included. They keep for months in the freezer or even the refrigerator where I keep a jar with a shake top for quick reference. They can be left at room temperature for weeks, I use my home made versions at room temperature. If they are store-bought, I store them frozen and defrost when needed.
Fish Sauce This salty, pungent, and essential seasoning has an amber color, and substantial umami impact, rounding out a lot of flavorful Thai foods. It is often the major sodium source in Thai food. Cooking a majority of real Thai food for vegetarians is a challenge since fish sauce is used so often, I turn to light soy sauce or low-sodium soy sauce and begin with the same amount. If you don’t use it often you may want to keep in your refrigerator to slow down the aging process. Sometimes sodium crystals form in the bottle over extended times, no need to worry, proceed on!
Galangal (blue ginger) (Kha) Much tougher than ginger, the readily apparent lines around its circumference of the thin skin encompasses a mustard-camphor like citrusy aroma. I like to keep them loosely wrapped in the refrigerator. If they are hard for you to find (or order online), peel and freeze a large piece (you can find it in many freezer sections at markets also). When in need, grate it frozen so you can measure them easily or slice off a few pieces. Dried powder or slices have no flavor, better to use nothing or substitute with ginger.
Green Papaya Actually an immature, not just unripe papaya, is firm and really not that flavorful, it’s a textural experience and a medium for seasonings. Look for smooth green skins without wrinkles. The surface should be very firm, almost hard. Store loosely covered or in a drawer in the refrigerator.
Kaffir Lime Leaves and Zest This aromatic branch of the citrus family tree is prized mostly for its pungent leaves. The wrinkly fruit has a wonderfully strong scented zest used in spice pastes but the juice of the fruit is almost never used. Leaves are steeped whole in broths and curries, fried quickly to a crisp for snacks or garnish. Look for the uniquely double lobed sturdy leaves that are shiny and dark green on one side and a matte light green on the other. For every 6 lime leaves I use 1 teaspoon lime zest, usually added towards the end of the recipe. Best when fresh, useless when dried. They freeze quite well, make sure to keep them airtight and only pull out those needed for each recipe.
Lemongrass These sturdy slender stalks are an icon for Thai food. It has a crisp citrus aroma that perfumes Thai dishes at all ends of the spectrum from cool salads to fiery hot curries. Most commonly, the bottom 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) are used for infusing, mincing, or slicing very thinly to shorten the tough fibers that run lengthwise. The outer tougher leaves must be stripped away, revealing the aromatic and tender inside. As a substitute I would suggest ½ teaspoon lemon zest with ¼ teaspoon lime zest for each stalk of lemongrass. Better yet, buy frozen already chopped lemongrass or buy fresh stalks when available and freeze them for future use. Keep them, wrapped loosely, in the refrigerator for a week or two.
Limes Limes and all citrus are indigenous to the Asian continent. There are a variety of limes used in Thai cuisine including the largest Persian lime or common lime, small “key” lime, knobby kaffir lime, and the perfumed kalamansi lime. This book only utilizes the most common limes. In Thai cuisine, the juice is commonly used in uncooked recipes for dressing and as a final tableside garnish, the flavor does not hold up well under heat or over time, so juice your limes as you need them. Never buy bottled lime juice. The zest is grated when the aroma of the lime is what you want, the oils contain most of the precious aroma. Look for bright or dark green limes that are firm to the touch without any brown or soft spots. They can be kept room temperature for a few days, but I keep them loosely covered in the refrigerator.
Long Beans (Yard Beans) Heartier than standard green beans these earthy tasting beans are 1–2 feet long (about ½ meter). Snacked on raw as part of a table salad to accompany salads and rice dishes or cooked, these are flavorsome beans. I prefer the deep green variety. The stem end should not be dried out and shriveled. Store covered loosely in the refrigerator.
Mint (Peppermint) Mint’s unique ability to produce a refreshing cooling sensation gives it a star role in the Southeast Asia. It may pack a wallop of flavor yet extensive exposure to heat kills its flavor so it’s usually eaten raw or added at the very last moment. There are two primary varieties: peppermint (more commonly used), which has wrinkled leaves and hard woody stems; while spearmint has smooth darker green leaves and soft edible stems and has a more assertive bite—same as Thai basil.
Noodles, Dried Flat Rice Probably the most popular noodle in Thailand, these noodles come in many sizes, as thin as ¹⁄8 inch (3 mm) and as wide as ¾ inch
(2 cm). Transform these noodles into soups and stir-fried dishes. Soak for
30 minutes in room temperature water before a quick boil. More often than not dried noodles will be labeled with the Vietnamese “Banh Pho.” Store at room temperature, sealed air tight—almost indefinitely.
Dried Rice Vermicelli Noodles (Rice Sticks) The thinnest of all rice noodles, they have a subtle flavor and delicate texture. In Thailand there is one special variety known as Khanom Jin—the batter is slightly fermented before making noodles. Salads, noodle bowls, soups, and stir-fried dishes all welcome these firm threads that act as flavor carriers. I prefer to soak them in water first, then boiled to cook for the best texture. I look for ingredient statements that list only rice and water (maybe salt). Recently some manufacturers have been adding tapioca starch, making them more durable but creating a different texture.
Fresh Flat Rice Noodles The Chinese invented the technique of making a thin batter of ground rice or rice flour batter that’s steamed into sheets
