and every seat is good. Even if you get stuck behind someone with a bouffant hairdo, you will have a good view of the stage.
Open from 6 p.m. till 2 a.m.
Monday to Saturday. First set at
7:30 p.m. Closed on Sunday.
FIK Bldg. B1F,
5-13-3 Minami-aoyama,
Minato-ku.
(03) 3407-5781
¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥+
G•H Nine
This is a subdued and sophisticated jazz spot delivering a mixed bag of local acts for less than you would be scalped for in other better-known clubs. It is definitely worth the effort to make your way to Ueno if you don't already live or work in the area. The club is located directly under the glass pyramid which gives the Uno Building its distinctive look, but which makes heating a little difficult during winter. It consists of a main floor and mezzanine, which are connected by a slightly wobbly metal staircase. You must be seated to watch the show, but with three sets throughout the night, the turnover of tables seems to accommodate everyone interested. Reservations would be advised for more popular acts. If you're really unlucky and can't get a seat, the building's first floor coffee shop shows a large screen simulcast of what's going on upstairs. They serve stylish-looking cocktails but fairly average beers, with only Grolsch to break the monotony. Food is also available.
Open from 6 p.m. till 12 a.m.
every night. First set at 7 p.m.
Uno Bldg. 9F,
4-4-6 Ueno,
Taito-ku.
(03) 3837-2525
¥¥
Vagabond
A reassuringly-solid central staircase fashioned from heavy wooden banisters forms the entrance to this poky jazz club. Upstairs, the walls are covered with an assortment of posters and paintings, the ceiling is hung with a jumble of potted plants and dried flowers, the lightshades are draped with lace doilies, and old brass fixtures from railway carriages serve as bag racks. The retro nature of all these decorations and the overwhelming feeling of claustrophobia from being crammed in among all this stuff, make you feel like you've stumbled into your grandmother's parlor. It is a fabulously atmospheric environment in which to sit and sip and listen to some classic skat and blues, or bring some friends and make a night of it. The piano, the back of which juts out precariously over the stairwell, is dusted off every evening from seven p.m. (after which it will be impossible to get a seat) to deliver some suitably lethargic jazz standards. They also feature a basic yakitoriya style menu.
Open from 5:30 p.m. till 11:30
p.m. Monday to Saturday, till
10:30 p.m. on Sunday, and till
11 p.m. on holidays.
1-4-20 Nishi-shinjuku 2F,
Shinjuku-ku.
(03) 3348-9109
¥
Pit Inn
Pit Inn is almost a synonym for jazz in Tokyo. The Roppongi and Shinjuku venues have been serving the local jazz community for more than two decades. The interior of the Roppongi one is spacious, but quickly fills up when the club's more popular acts take the spotlight. Latecomers may be forced to stand or be jammed behind a pillar with zero visibility. Everyone stops talking and pays excruciatingly silent attention when the band kicks in. At this one they feature a mixed bag of jazz genres, including pop and fusion. The Shinjuku Pit Inn recently moved to the basement of a new building, leaving many punters sad that the older, more-settled club has gone. This one features only jazz, which can be taken very seriously by those who say they enjoy it. The audiences in both clubs are a little too well behaved for my liking. If you want to start researching the local jazz scene, however, either of these clubs would be an excellent place to start.
Roppongi: Open from 6:30
p.m. till 10:30 p.m. every day.
First set at 7:30 p.m.
Shimei Bldg. B1F,
3-17-7 Roppongi, Minato-ku.
(03) 3585-1063
¥¥¥¥
Shinjuku: Open from 7 p.m.
till 10:30 p.m. every day.
First set at 7:30 p.m.
Acord Bldg. B1F,
2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.
(03) 3354-2024
¥¥¥¥
Aketa
You can wander into this jazz venue on any night and find a dedicated group of musicians delivering high-quality jazz. The owner, Aketagawa-san, started out during the modern jazz wave of the 60s and is now a well-known personality and musician on the scene. He is basically one of the lads, because of which his club is firmly plugged into the local circuit. One third of his bar's tiny interior is given over to a stage and the rest is crammed with coffee tables and padded chairs, all of which face the band. The only real interior detail is a colorful, modern mural which creates a fresh, inspirational backdrop for the performers. Once you know who's who on the scene, this would be an excellent low-profile, low-budget venue in which to catch a favorite act. If you're just starting out, you can rely on hearing excellent-quality jazz in whatever style the band is playing. The audience is fairly relaxed, yet respectful, but this will vary according to the act. Definitely worth a visit.
Open from 7 p.m. till 11 p.m.
Sunday to Monday and till 2
a.m. on Saturday. Sometimes a
cheap 3 p.m. matinee on Sunday.
Yoshino Bldg. B1F,
3-21-13 Nishi-ogikita,
Suginami-ku.
(03) 3395-9507
¥¥/¥¥¥
Jirokichi
This is a truly inspiring little jazz, soul, funk, and blues venue right in the heart of Koenji. You can wander in on almost any night and find some eccentric Japanese musician hammering out a tune from one of the genres listed above. A lot of foreigners live in this area and many of them patronize this club.
