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about 2 ½-8 in (7-20 cm) long, favoured by Indians and Southeast Asians as a vegetable. Has a mucilaginous quality. Also known as ladies' fingers.

      ORANGE PEEL, DRIED Dried orange peel is added to slow-cooked dishes for flavor. Although usually available in Chinese stores, fresh peel can be used as a substitute.

      OYSTER SAUCE A thick sauce made from ground oysters, water, salt, cornflour and caramel coloring, used primarily to flavor stir-fried vegetables and meat. It is commonly used in Chinese cooking. Refrigerate after opening. Look for MSG-free brands.

      PALM SUGAR Made by boiling down the sap of various palm trees, usually sold in solid cakes or cylinders and varies in color from gold to light brown. If unavailable, substitute with soft brown sugar or a mixture of brown sugar and maple syrup. To make palm sugar syrup, combine equal amounts of chopped palm sugar and water (add a pandan leaf if it is available). Bring to the boil, simmer for 10 minutes, strain and refrigerate.

      PANDAN LEAF A fragrant member of the pandanus or screwpine family, pandan leaf is used to wrap seasoned morsels of chicken or pork, and added to various cakes and desserts. Bottled pandan essence can be used as a substitute in sweets.

      PAPADS Also known as poppadum, these wafer-thin discs of seasoned wheat and lentil flour crisp up when fried in hot oil. Dry thoroughly before frying.

      PEPPERCORNS Thought to be native to the Malabar coast of India, peppercorns are generally sold black (with their skins intact) and are frequently added whole to dishes. If crushing or grinding, do so just before use for maximum flavor and freshness.

      PLUM SAUCE Sold in tins or jars, this piquant reddish-brown condiment is made from salted plums, chilies, vinegar and sugar. Refrigerate after opening. Available from Chinese stores.

      POMELO A citrus somewhat similar to grapefruit, the pomelo is drier, sweeter and has a much thicker and tougher peel. It is eaten as a fruit or broken up for salads.

      POPPY SEEDS Tiny white poppy seeds are prized for their delicate nutty flavor and used as a thickening agent. Soak in warm water for 10-15 minutes and grind before use. Substitute with cashews or almonds.

      POTATO Yamato-imo, often referred to as a potato in Japan, is actually a type of mountain yam which is grated and used raw for its gluey texture and bright white color. Sato-imo is a type of yam with a much finer texture and slightly different flavor from Western potatoes. New potatoes make an acceptable substitute.

      PRAWNS, DRIED see SHRIMPS, DRIED

      RADISH, GIANT WHITE A vegetable about 6-10 in (15-25 cm) long, widely used in Japanese cooking. Daikon is shredded and used raw as a garnish, sliced for stews and stir-fries, and pickled. Preserved salted radish keeps almost indefinitely on the shelf, and is often added to rice porridge (congee) and other dishes.

      RED BEANS Dried red azuki beans are used in Chinese and Japanese sweets, or cooked with sugar to make red-bean paste, a popular filling for buns and pancakes. The paste is also sold in tins.

      RED DATES Valued for their medicinal properties as well as their prune-like flavor, these are added to soups. Soak in boiling water for 1 hour to soften before use.

      RICE Many types of rice are eaten throughout Asia, the most popular for daily meals being fragrant long-grain jasmine rice. Some Indian recipes call for the nutty-flavored basmati rice. White and brownish-black glutinous rice are used in sweet and savory dishes. The absorbency of rice is affected by its age-young rice absorbs less water than older rice. When you use a new packet of rice, be conservative when adding water until you find out its degree of absorbency.

      Wash rice thoroughly in several changes of water before using. To make plain rice, measure a minimum of ½ cup of rice per person and wash thoroughly. Put into a heavy-bottomed pan with enough water to cover the rice and come up to the level of the first joint on your forefinger (about ¾ in or 2 cm). Cover the pan and bring to the boil over high heat. Set the lid slightly to one side, lower heat slightly and simmer until all the water is absorbed and dimples or "craters" appear in the top of the rice. Reduce heat to the absolute minimum, cover the pan and leave the rice to cook for at least another 10 minutes. Remove the lid, fluff up the rice with a fork (do not stir before this), wipe any condensation off the lid and cover the pan. Set aside until required. The rice should keep warm for at least another 15-20 minutes.

      Short-grained rice with a somewhat sticky texture is used in Japan. Do not serve fragrant Thai or basmati rice with Japanese food.

      RICE PAPER Made from a batter of rice flour, water and salt, then steamed and dried in the sun on bamboo racks. Moisten with a little tepid water before using to make Vietnamese rolls.

      RICE WINE See CHINESE RICE WINE

      ROCK SUGAR Crystallized cane sugar, sold in chunks in boxes.

      Added to Chinese red-braised dishes, desserts and drinks.

      ROSE ESSENCE A heady fragrance from the Middle East, used in Malay desserts, drinks and some Indian rice dishes.

      SAFFRON The world's most expensive spice, actually the dried stigma of a type of crocus. Infuse saffron strands in warm milk before adding to rice and dessert dishes. Store saffron in the freezer as it loses its fragrance quickly.

      SAGO PEARLS The pith of the sago palm that has been ground to a paste and pressed through a sieve. It is very glutinous, with little taste, and used in Asia for desserts.

      SAKE Popular as a drink, sake or Japanese rice wine is available in many different qualities and is an important cooking ingredient. It is almost always heated to get rid of the alcohol for Japanese cuisine. A bottle of sake will keep for about a month after opening. If red sake is not available, use regular sake.

      SALAM LEAF A subtly flavored leaf of a member of the cassia family, infused in curries. If you cannot obtain fresh or dried leaf, omit altogether.

      SALTED FISH Salted and sun-dried freshwater fish that do not require soaking before using. Grill whole or cut into fine slices and fry to a crisp, and serve as a condiment. Salted fish is also sometimes pickled.

      SALTED CABBAGE Various types of heavily salted cabbage are used in some Chinese and Nonya dishes; the most common is made from mustard cabbage. Soak in fresh water for at least 15 minutes to remove excess salt, repeating if necessary.

      SALTED DUCK EGG A popular accompaniment to rice and savory Malay dishes. Wash off the black coating (often added to protect the egg), boil for 10 minutes, then cut egg in half while still in the shell.

      SALTED SOYA BEANS Salty and with a distinctive tang, these are often lightly pounded before being used to season fish, noodle or vegetable dishes. Varieties packed in China are sometimes labelled "Yellow Bean Sauce". Mash slightly before using. Sichuan brands contain additional chili. Keeps indefinitely on the shelf.

      SANSHO A peppery powder made from the seeds of the prickly ash, available in small glass bottles in Japanese stores. The dried Sichuan pepper is an exact substitute.

      SCALLION Also known as spring onion, this popular herb is often used as a garnish and to

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