Spirits of New Orleans. Kala Ambrose
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CHAPTER 9 Guests in Spirit Still Attend the Quadroon Balls at the Bourbon Orleans Hotel
CHAPTER 10 Ghostly Carriage Rides at the Old French Opera House on Bourbon Street
CHAPTER 11 The Monk Who Saved the Children at the Place d’Armes Hotel
CHAPTER 12 A Loving Legacy at the Cornstalk Hotel
CHAPTER 13 The Deathly Portal of Thirteen at Canal Street and City Park
CHAPTER 14 Jean Lafitte’s Infamous Pirate Bar
CHAPTER 15 More Than 200 Years of Spirits at the Napoleon House
CHAPTER 16 Gourmet Ghosts Love Antoine’s and Arnaud’s Restaurants
CHAPTER 17 The Enchanted Charm Gate at the Court of Two Sisters
CHAPTER 18 Gunshots and Ghosts at the Beauregard–Keyes House
CHAPTER 19 Celebrate Jazz and Mardi Gras with the Spirits at Hotel Monteleone
CHAPTER 20 Cold Lonely Nights Lead to the Ghost of the Broken-Hearted Octoroon Mistress
CHAPTER 21 The Legend of St. Louis Cathedral and Pere Antoine’s Alley
CHAPTER 22 Our Lady of Guadalupe Church and Saint Expedite
CHAPTER 23 The Resident Ghosts of Yesteryears and Pat O’Brien’s
CHAPTER 24 The Ghost Children of the Andrew Jackson Hotel
CHAPTER 25 The History and Mystery of the Baroness and Her Pontalba Apartments
Introduction
EMBRACING THE SPIRIT AND SPIRITS OF NEW ORLEANS
“Seeing a ghost in New Orleans is as common as having a bowl of gumbo. The question is not when but where best to savor them both. Each person who lives or visits the city of New Orleans quickly finds his or her favorite haunts and returns to them time and time again.”
—Kala Ambrose
AS AN INTUITIVE CHILD growing up in Louisiana, my soul flourished along the running waters of the Mississippi Delta, the Red River, and the Gulf Coast. I grew up seeing ghosts, as well as hearing about the haunted history of each location we visited. While most every city in Louisiana has its haunted tales, my favorite has always been New Orleans.
New Orleans is a port city known for its food, where a thick roux base is mixed with spices, vegetables, seafood, meat, and everything else in the kitchen, and is thrown into a gumbo pot to the culinary satisfaction of the most discerning soul. This unique, eclectic mixture spills over into the people and their history, creating—among other things—some of the most soulful and haunting music the world has ever seen. The spirit of New Orleans is so enticing that whenever I hear blues or jazz music playing, I have to stop what I’m doing and dance to the rhythm reaching deep within my soul, connecting me to the roots of my mind, body, and spirit.
Present-day New Orleans on Bourbon Street
The energy of this land is so potent and powerful that it places a hold on each person who enters these swampy grounds and claims you as its own. This may explain in part why the city of New Orleans is so haunted with ghosts much older than its current residents.
One never runs out of things to experience in NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana). Recently, I returned to my roots in the great state of Louisiana and spent some time in my favorite place in the world: the French Quarter of New Orleans. Truly captivating, this city is a veritable feast for all five senses, as well as the sixth sense.
The best way to describe how I feel in this city is charmed. New Orleans is many things to many people, but for me it is charming and embodies a spirit—a joy for living (joie de vivre)—that is expressed throughout the city.
I remember the first time I returned to New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. I had no idea how the vibe of the city would feel after having gone through such a horrific experience. My heart was thrilled to see that the great lady was holding her own with a state of grace, while still undergoing major renovations on the physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual levels.
I traveled around parts of the city riding the streetcars, taking in each neighborhood, enjoying the stunning architecture, smelling honeysuckle and jasmine in the air, and chuckling at the sight of Mardi Gras beads hanging from the boughs of trees. As the streetcar delivered me near the French Market, the smell of beignets and coffee coming from Café du Monde lifted my spirit. Yes, I sighed with relief; New Orleans has been through the worst and still she stands—proud, strong, and vibrant.
It is my sincere belief that New Orleans is charmed: charmed by the artists and musicians when their art and music spill into the streets touching the soul at the core, charmed by the chefs who tantalize our appetites in sweet rhapsody with their culinary delights, and charmed by the people who are kind, good natured, and some of the most loving and joyful people who I have ever had the pleasure of knowing.
THE JOURNEY BEGINS
As we begin this journey into the spirit and spirits of New Orleans, we will tread carefully into the cities of the dead and visit the land of magical Voodoo queens. Growing up in Louisiana, I assumed that people everywhere spoke about mojo, gris-gris, juju, and Voodoo and celebrated Mardi Gras and other joyous occasions, for the simple joy of being alive and around family and friends. Later, as I lived and traveled around the country, I soon discovered that Louisiana has a very unique style of living. There is no other place like it in the world. I’m of French, Scottish, Irish, and German origin, and my family has lived in almost every area of the state. My mother was a Cajun queen born in Lafayette; my great-grandmother lived in South Louisiana, where she supported her family by reading tea leaves and making folk remedies.
I grew up attending Mardi Gras