that were, as he described them, unsavory. He alluded to the Mafia element in the city, a powerful underworld during his time. Being Italian, he was asked to do some favors for these men, and while it was possible that he could decline their offer, those who did decline were typically found dead or worse. He didn’t want to elaborate on what was worse than death, and I didn’t want to interrupt his story. He explained that the favors went up a level each time he was asked, and that he had participated in sorrowful activities that haunted him to this day. He had done his best to keep this information secret from his wife as not to worry her, but he said that like most women, she had a way of knowing when something was wrong and questioned him often about why he looked so worried and tired many times. He would shrug it off as the pressures of doing business and then try to distract her with other news of his day.
Life, death, spirits, drinks, and jazz all blend together in New Orleans.
It was his belief that because of the sins he had committed during his earthly life, he would be living in a lowly place in heaven, if he made it to heaven at all, while his wife was a proverbial saint and would be living in the holiest of holy places in heaven, and that they would not be together over there. Understanding that he was a Catholic, I said that surely he must have gone to confession and asked for forgiveness. He replied that he did many times, but that he knew that this did not truly release his sins for what he had done.
He explained to me that he thought that the best thing he could do was penance, which he tried to do every day by riding the streetcar and looking after the people in the city. He said, with a smile to me, that while he was still just Mr. Charles, perhaps one day, if he did enough good things, he, too, could be called St. Charles like the streetcar he rode.
At this point the streetcar lurched to a stop, shifting everyone in their seats. Some of the brakes on these cars are not the best and the drivers really have to stomp on them at times. As I steadied myself and then settled back in my seat, Mr. Charles was standing and moving away. I looked up at him to see why our conversation had concluded so abruptly, and he pointed to an elderly lady who had just entered the car. “She’s one of my regulars,” he said as he went to go sit next to her. The next stop was mine, and as I exited, I smiled and whispered as I went by that I hoped to see him again sometime when I was in the city. He smiled and said, “Here in New Orleans, it’s highly likely we will meet again.” To this day, he is one of the most aware and astute ghosts that I have ever communicated with in my lifetime.
Should you want to meet the ghost of Mr. Charles, take a ride on the St. Charles streetcar and ask aloud, “Mr. Charles, are you along for the ride?” Don’t be surprised if he strikes up a conversation with you right there.
Commanders Palace Restaurant in the Garden District has the reputation of being haunted by the former owner of the restaurant. Almost any local will share a story with you about experiencing the ghost while dining at the restaurant. Built in 1880, the Brennan family continues to uphold the highest level of service and cuisine, and you’ll enjoy the dining experience so much that you’ll want to haunt the place yourself in the afterlife.
Even vampires love a good funeral. Jazz funerals and second lines are so adored in New Orleans that author Anne Rice arranged her own mock funeral, which began at Lafayette Cemetery #1 in the Garden District. Anne dressed in an antique wedding gown and was ceremoniously placed in a casket. The funeral procession began with a brass band and huge crowds following Anne in her casket through the streets to the Garden District Book Shop, where she signed her book Memnoch the Devil for thousands of her fans. Lafayette Cemetery #1 was also filmed for a scene in the Interview with the Vampire movie and was written about in Anne’s book The Witching Hour.
Want to eat and party like a local? Favorite Garden District hangouts include Tipitinas, named after the song by Professor Longhair; Jacques-Imos Café for delicious Creole dishes; the Domilise Sandwich Shop and Bar for a great po’boy sandwich; and The Camellia Grill for a quick bite at the counter.
While in this part of the city, a must-see is Audubon Park and Zoo. The 400-acre park named for John James Audubon was originally a plantation owned by Etienne de Boré, who discovered how to create granulated sugar from sugar cane and subsequently made his fortune. His legacy of land is now Audubon Park, Zoo, and Golf Course. Plan to spend the day touring this area along with visiting Loyola and Tulane Universities nearby.
One-way fares on the streetcars for St. Charles, Riverfront, and Canal Street are $1.25. For $5 invest in a one-day pass for the streetcars, and you can ride all the cars all day long. The St. Charles streetcar will take you past the beautiful homes and areas of the Garden District, by Loyola and Tulane Universities, and to the Audubon Zoo and Gardens. Take the Canal Streetcar to visit the French Market at one end of the line, and ride it on the 5-mile route to the other end at Canal Street and City Park Avenue to visit many of the historic cemeteries mentioned in this book. The Riverfront Line is a new addition that will carry you from the French Market to the Aquarium of the Americas and to a variety of places to shop and dine. The streetcars here in New Orleans are so romantic and captivating that Tennessee Williams was inspired to write A Streetcar Named Desire here in the city.
In ancient Greek mythology, there were nine Greek goddesses, called muses, who ruled and provided inspirations over the arts and sciences. These muses were Calliope (epic poetry), Clio (history), Erato (love poetry), Euterpe (music), Melpomene (tragedy), Polyhymnia (sacred hymns), Terpsichore (dance), Thalia (comedy), and Urania (astronomy). In the Garden District of New Orleans, the streets (designed by city planner and architect at the time, Barthelemy Lafon) are named after each of these muses. The muse streets cross Prytania Street, representing the hearth of the goddess Hestia. Dryades is named for the wood nymphs, and two of the three graces—Euphrosine (joy) and Thalia (flowering)—are streets. For some reason, the third grace, Aglaia (Beauty), is not named.
CHAPTER 3
Tread Carefully When Walking Down the Haunted Pirates Alley
“New Orleans life is such a night life. The thing that comes up very often is that our day essentially doesn’t start until midnight or two in the morning.”
—Robert Asprin
LOCATED IN THE FRENCH QUARTER at St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square are alleyways that run along the left and right side of the cathedral. On the left side (or as directions are given in New Orleans, the uptown side) is Pirates Alley, which is a one-block cobblestone pedestrian walkway located between St. Louis Cathedral and the Cabildo building. The street is easily marked by one of the landmark New Orleans street signs and is one of the most-photographed street signs in New Orleans.
When walking down the street, you feel as though you might discover a hidden treasure or secret bounty—filled with precious gems and rarely seen antique items—spilling from one of the doors you pass by. During the day, it’s very busy with people passing through on their way to shops and cafés, with local artists lining the streets to showcase their wares and with performing musicians of all kinds, from solo artists on guitar or saxophone to three-piece bands.
The setting is very romantic and has become one of the most popular outdoor locations to get married in New Orleans, right here in the alley rather than inside St. Louis Cathedral. As you walk along Pirates Alley—filled with music, tourists, and artists—it’s difficult to imagine that this alley once led to the old Spanish jail where prisoners were marched down the street.
