Quesería Rubicón. A signpost for the PR LZ 09 stands at the roundabout, pointing up a tarmac road that gives way to a track. Climb past a notice for the Monumento Natural Los Ajaches, with views of Femés and the Valle de Femés.
A goat farm is reached on a stony gap at Loma Pico de la Aceituna, at 414m (1358ft). Two mapboards and two signposts stand to the right. The PR LZ 09 heads right, and is easy to spot as it has a black plastic water pipe alongside. The PR LZ 10-11 heads left, followed on Walk 2 and Walk 3. The path crosses the steep and rocky Pico de la Aceituna, and while it is technically easy to walk, you cannot afford to trip or stumble. The rock comes in pastel shades, exposed to the elements by serious over-grazing. The view down the Barranco de la Higuera extends along the coast to built-up resorts and distant Arrecife. Despite the steepness of the slope, the path runs gently down and up, squeezing past prickly pears at one point.
Walkers follow a track down from a small goat farm at Degollada del Portugués
Rise and cross a stony gap at 441m (1447ft), then follow the path round the steep, rocky slopes of Pico Redondo. The water pipe still runs alongside, and views stretch towards Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are more prickly pears but otherwise the mountainside is bare and over-grazed. When a fork is reached, keep right and follow the path down to a track at the small goat farm at Degollada del Portugués, at 419m (1375ft). The path climbing left is used on Walk 1.
Turn left to follow the track down to a stony gap at 329m (1079ft), swinging left to continue down across the flanks of the Barranco de los Dises. The track winds downhill and later there are views of the coast stretching to Arrecife. The track forks twice; keep left both times. Reach a signposted junction at Peña de los Dises, at 137m (449ft). Turn right, down onto the bed of the Barranco Parrado. The track climbs from it, passing a marker post. Follow the track as it rises, then falls, keeping left at a junction and going straight through a track intersection. The track descends, swings round a barranco, and then rises. It does the same with three more barrancos, reaching a signpost on the Lomo Barranco de las Pilas, at 69m (226ft).
The track continues bending as it crosses arid, stony slopes, and also passes small quarries. Later, avoid a track descending left to the coast, and very soon afterwards, avoid a track climbing steeply to the right. Eventually a signposted junction is reached at La Torreta, at 59m (194ft), and there is a glimpse of Playa Blanca ahead. Walk straight ahead, then bear left at the next junction. The track crosses a stony plain dotted with low scrub, then it is flanked by boulders as it reaches a junction with a broad dirt road. Turn left to follow this to a junction, where destinations are spelled out on ceramic tiles. Keep straight ahead over a rise to reach a signpost at the entrance to a dirt car park. Although a signpost points right, disregard it and either bear left or straight ahead. Follow any path on the headland of Punta de Papagayo, to find a couple of sandy beaches and attractive cliff-top walks. Views across the sea take in the islands of Lobos and Fuerteventura. Afterwards, head for a huddle of little bar restaurants at Papagayo.
A collection of small bars above Playa de Papagayo on Punta de Papagayo
Continue along the coast, either visiting the sandy beaches of Playa del Pozo and Playa Mujeres, or staying a little further inland to avoid them. Use sandy or stony paths, and either walk around headlands or short-cut behind them. The first building reached looks remarkably like a ship, then a steep, rocky descent leads to an easy promenade path beside the pebbly Playa de las Coloradas. The promenade ends where an old house has survived the relentless resort expansion. Pick up the promenade on the other side and pass the Gran Castillo. Next, there is access inland to a shopping centre and buses, where the walk could be finished early, saving 3km (2 miles).
The promenade runs along a cliff-top and passes the Castillo de las Coloradas, where there is a signpost. Go down steps towards an attractive marina development. Either hug the harbour-side or use paved paths a little further inland, but there is no need to walk on roads. Admire the architecture, water features and planted areas around the marina; there also are plenty of places offering refreshment. Eventually, pass the Hotel Playa Dorado and walk until a tiny sandy beach is reached at Playa Blanca. Turn right inland on the narrow Avenida Marítima to reach the town centre and a mapboard for the PR LZ 09 and GR 131.
WALK 5
Playa Blanca to El Golfo
| Start | Avenida Marítima, Playa Blanca |
| Finish | El Golfo |
| Distance | 25km (15½ miles) |
| Total Ascent/Descent | 150m (490ft) |
| Time | 8hrs |
| Terrain | Easy promenade at first, then good paths, then awkward, stony areas. After a stretch of road-walking there is a short beach walk and an ash path. |
| Refreshment | Plenty of choice in Playa Blanca. Bar restaurants at El Golfo. |
| Transport | Regular daily buses serve Playa Blanca from Arrecife and the airport. A pick-up or taxi is needed at El Golfo. |
Many walkers stroll along the promenade at Playa Blanca and continue across bleak and barren lava flows, wondering where it all might end. This walk includes rugged paths and roads, stretching all the way to El Golfo and taking in remarkable sights. There is no transport at the end, so a pick-up or taxi needs to be arranged.
Early morning at Playa Blanca, when you can have the beach all to yourself
Start at the tiny sandy beach at Playa Blanca, which is reached from the Avenida Marítima. Face the sea, turn right and walk past several bar restaurants. Later, two flights of steps lead down to a pebbly beach, so use either of them to join and follow a tarmac road past the ferryport. (You could park and start from here if you need to save a few minutes’ walking time.) The promenade path passes bungalow apartments at Puerto Chico and then the Iberostar development, with views across the sea to the islands of Lobos and Fuerteventura. Pass a kiosk, bar restaurant and a couple of shops, then climb a little to pass a lookout/bunker. Pass the Timanfaya Palace Hotel and descend a little, crossing a footbridge over the rocky bed of a barranco. Pass the Hotel Natura Palace, then there is a shop inland and bar restaurants overlooking a little beach. The promenade passes the H10 Rubicón Palace, then there are lots of sun loungers belonging to the Royal Mónica on Playa de Montaña Roja.
Later, there is a gap in the promenade path, then it resumes to pass a few more properties, followed by a bulldozed area awaiting the attention of developers. The paving ends abruptly, so continue along a stony path, aiming right of the tall Faro de Pechiguera, crossing its access road. Follow a concrete wall ahead, then step over it to follow a trodden path past boulders, linking with another promenade path. A few occupied buildings face the sea, while an
