Ward’s Minehead marker at the start of the path
There is abundant accommodation around the South West Coast Path, but think carefully a day or two in advance to ensure you have a roof over your head. There are long and difficult stretches of coast that seem remote from habitation, and some places where lodgings are restricted to only one or two addresses. Even in the big towns, it can be difficult to obtain a bed for the night in the peak season. Check the online database at Luggage Transfers, www.luggagetransfers.co.uk, which lists almost a thousand addresses around the South West Coast Path, and see Appendix B for an overview of what’s available along the way.
Backpacking
If you’re prepared to carry all your gear, backpacking is a great option. You can walk with a high degree of freedom: setting off at dawn, walking until dusk, generally pleasing yourself. To locate campsites, there are several marked on OS maps, but there may be many others. It’s well worth packing as light as possible, and there’s no need to carry several days’ supply of food as there are ample opportunities to restock.
Some campsites are geared for long stays or for large family tents, rather than one-night backpackers with small tents. Some walkers camp wild, unobtrusively, leaving no evidence of their overnight stay, but this is technically illegal and permission should be sought from the landowner. Ask politely for permission to camp, and offer to pay, or risk eviction for not asking! The Backpackers Club, www.backpackersclub.co.uk, offers a members-only list of over 200 Coast Path campsites and suggests wild camp locations.
Hostelling
There are 15 YHA hostels within easy walking distance of the Coast Path. However, there aren’t enough to be able to walk from one to the other without falling back on other types of accommodation. YHA hostels are marked on OS maps and full details can be checked at www.yha.org.uk. There are also around a dozen independent hostels that might prove useful, www.independenthostels.co.uk. Hostellers may need to carry a tent if they wish to walk within a low budget, or fall back on low-cost B&B accommodation to fill gaps along the way.
Tintagel Youth Hostel enjoys a fine outlook from its cliff-top situation (Stage 11)
Bed and breakfast
Walkers who want to travel lightweight and enjoy a bit of luxury can use B&Bs, guest houses and hotels. These are available at regular intervals, although in irregular concentrations. Not every establishment wants to have one person staying for one night only, and many prefer to have couples staying for a weekend or week-long periods. However, when there are cancellations at busy periods, they’ll take anyone! Some accommodation providers deal well with walkers, and may be prepared to offer pick-ups and drop-offs, packed lunches, or arrange to move luggage onwards, but there is usually a charge for such extra services.
Block bookings
If you book all your accommodation for the duration of your long trek in advance, you may regret it later. Bad weather, fatigue or injury can prevent you from covering the distance to your next lodging, and trying to unwind arrangements and re-book at short notice can become a nightmare. Outside the peak summer season it should be possible to book two or three days ahead, then book another night or two later, based around your performance on the trail. If assistance is needed, it’s always possible to deal with Luggage Transfers, www.luggagetransfers.co.uk, and let them make the arrangements. Walkers recommend many of these addresses, so there’s a good chance you’ll be very well looked after.
Book a bed ahead
A few tourist information centres can make bookings for you, and they usually have a good knowledge of what’s available in their localities. They may also be able to book places two or three days ahead along the trail. Let them have your requirements, then retire for a cream tea and pop back after half an hour to see how they’ve fared. They typically make a small charge for these services, and they may also charge a deposit, which will be discounted from the bill you pay at your accommodation.
Facilities en route
Looking back to Portloe and its tiny harbour from the cliff path (Stage 26)
Food and drink
In the peak summer season there’s no shortage of food and drink along the South West Coast Path. In fact, backpackers often regret carrying cooking equipment as they walk past frequent offers of pasties, chips and cream teas. All the towns have an abundance of pubs and restaurants, and many small villages may have a couple of pubs and cafés. However, it’s always good to know which villages don’t have these services, as well as which beaches are likely to have a café.
Throughout this guidebook, pubs, restaurants, cafés and shops are noted in passing, and Appendix B provides an at-a-glance breakdown of what’s available on and near the route. Bear in mind that in the winter months many places close. Refreshments can seem grossly overpriced at some places, but remember that you’re paying for the convenience, and taking your custom elsewhere could result in half a day’s walk!
Money
Being away from home for weeks, you either need to carry lots of money, or need access to funds along the way. Many upmarket accommodation providers and restaurants will accept credit cards, but most other places want cash. There are banks at irregular intervals, and most have ATMs (see Appendix B). Banks in towns along the way are noted in this guidebook. Post offices are also mentioned, which could be useful as they offer banking services. Some supermarkets may have a cash dispenser in-store, or they may offer a ‘cashback’ service.
A seven-week backpacking tour might just be completed on a budget of a few hundred pounds, while seven weeks of staying in hotels and eating splendid meals might easily run to several thousand pounds!
A homeless couple walked the path on an extremely tight budget. Read The Salt Path by Raynor Winn, published by Michael Joseph.
Tourist information centres
There are about 40 tourist information centres either on the Coast Path or a short distance from it. They contain a wealth of local information and the staff are usually very knowledgeable. Most of them will be able to assist with local accommodation bookings. Details are given for tourist information centres on the Coast Path, both as they occur along the route and in Appendix A.
Baggage transfer services
More and more long-distance walkers take advantage of luggage transfer services these days, and one company covers the whole of the South West Coast Path. Luggage Transfers (tel 0800 043 7927, www.luggagetransfers.co.uk) will collect and transfer luggage between overnight stops, leaving you free to carry only a day sack along the Coast Path. In some instances they will also transport people. Transfers need to be arranged at least a day in advance, so check their terms and conditions, bearing in mind that accommodation and campsite bookings may need to be confirmed before they will undertake to deliver.
One man and his dog
Maybe you were inspired by 500 Mile Walkies, by Mark Wallington, who took his dog Boogie around
