Cycle Touring in France. Stephen Fox

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Cycle Touring in France - Stephen Fox

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      The Donjon de Vez (Route 2)

      Any hospital visit, doctor's consultation and prescribed medicine incur a charge, which could be expensive. If you are unwell you can visit a local GP/doctor (un médecin) who nearly always speaks some English and charges about 25 euros, regardless of nationality. Most pharmacies (look for a blinking green neon cross above a shop) can give you the name and address of a GP nearby, or look under Médecins Qualifiés in the local Yellow Pages. To see a GP outside business hours or at weekends you will have to locate the doctor on call (médecin de garde) in the immediate area. Either dial the number 15 (SAMU – French Emergency Health Service/Paramedics number) and await the operator, or check in the local newspaper, which should list the doctor on call and out-of-hours pharmacy (pharmacie de garde) for that given week. A closed pharmacy will display the address of the nearest open pharmacy, daytime or evening. In serious emergencies you will always be admitted to the nearest hospital. The local fire brigade is not averse to helping out in an emergency either, so remember the phone number 18. Dialling 15 or 18 are free of charge, as is 17 for the police.

      French pharmacies do not stock most medicines on shelves accessible to the general public (as is the case in the United States); you have to ask for a specific medicine at the counter. It would be wise to write down particulars of any prescription medication you take on a daily basis before leaving for France, in case of any unforeseen emergency while you are there. If you pick up a mystery illness or suffer badly from an allergy while in France, try to explain the symptoms as best you can to a pharmacist who will recommend a medication.

      Travel insurance is an important consideration even if you are a citizen of a European Union country. Apart from medical problems other ugly things can spoil your holiday such as theft, loss of baggage and other items, and serious injury causing a long spell in hospital (to name but three). Check your home insurance cover before splashing out on another policy – some will cover loss of possessions abroad. Often, policies can be tailor-made to suit your trip. If you do take full medical coverage, it is worth checking if any treatment received would be paid for during your stay or only after returning home. As regards baggage cover, check that the maximum payout per item lost or stolen is more than your most valuable possession. You must obtain an official statement from the police should you be unfortunate enough to have anything stolen; if you need to make a claim you should keep receipts for any medicines and medical treatment. Similarly, American and Canadian citizens should also check to see that they're not already covered, so study the small print in home health plans. Students and teachers visiting France may often be entitled to certain health benefits.

      The euro is the only currency in France now, having replaced the French franc in 2002. Banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euro denominations and coins in 1 and 2 euro denominations, as well as 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cent denominations (1 euro = 100 cents).

      Banks are generally open from 9am to 4pm or 5pm from Monday to Friday, but some close for lunch, typically from midday to 2pm, especially in southern France where they may also be closed on Monday. Some banks open Saturday morning, especially if they are closed Monday. No bank is open on Sunday and they all close early the day before a holiday, often as early as midday.

      French ATMs/cashpoints can be found outside and sometimes inside banks: look for the sign of a hand holding a card. In France there are now ATMs that let you select your language, but the code pads are numeric only. Most credit and debit cards are accepted, but you will probably be charged interest from the moment you withdraw cash using a credit card, while with a debit card you will be charged about 2 percent of the total withdrawn. Taking travellers' cheques with you to France is another option. These can be cashed in banks, but you will need your passport for identification purposes.

      You need a phonecard (télécarte) to make a call from a payphone (cabine téléphonique). Phonecards, in 50 or 120 units, can be purchased at a tabac shop or post office (la poste), and some other places which display a sign ‘télécarte en vente ici’. The top left button on the payphone (usually two flags and an arrow) allows you to choose between five languages in the LCD display: French (Décrochez), English (Please lift receiver), German (Bitte abheben), Spanish (Descuelgue) and Italian (Sganciare). Lift the receiver and wait for a dialling tone, then insert the phonecard with the chip and arrow topside and front of the card, and dial the required number when instructed. The units on the card will count down in the LCD once you are connected. Replace the receiver at the end of your call and remove the phonecard. Some payphones may also allow you to use a credit card. To phone the UK, call 00 44 (the IDD and country code), then the area code without the first zero, and then the local number. For the US and Canada call 001 + area code + number; for Australia call 0061 + area code minus zero + number.

      New Year's Day (1 January)

      Easter Sunday and Monday

      Ascension Day (40 days after Easter)

      Whitsun (seventh Sunday after Easter) and Whit Monday

      Labour Day (1 May)

      VE Day (8 May)

      Bastille Day (14 July)

      Assumption Day (15 August)

      All Saints' Day (1 November)

      Armistice Day (11 November)

      Christmas Day (25 December)

      Banks, shops, museums and so on are closed for these public holidays. It is not uncommon for Ascension Day and Whitsun/Whit Monday to be in May, meaning four public holidays in this month alone. The French generally take their summer holiday in the first two weeks of August.

      For a diversity of delicious dishes and wonderful, world-renowned wines, look no further than France. Each region can proudly profess to be able to rustle up a wide variety of culinary delights, be they based around shellfish in Brittany, truffles and foie gras in Dordogne, or olives and aubergines in Provence. Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne immediately spring to mind when we think of French wine, but there are several other excellent wine-growing areas such as Alsace, the Loire and Rhône Valleys, Provence, the southwest of France and Languedoc-Roussillon, even Jura and Savoie. All large supermarkets stock a wide range of French wines and there is always a good choice to be found on restaurant menus, but why not sample the local wine if you're cycling past all those vineyards? Look out for roadside signs with the word dégustation (wine tasting) on them. It's not obligatory to buy a bottle after sampling the wine produced by a small cave or château, but it you would be putting money into the local community, even if it's only a few euros. And if one of the bottle cages on your bike frame is empty…

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      Violet Provençal garlic

      If you want to sample and buy some local produce the best place to go is the local market (marché) which usually happens on one particular morning each week. Local traders set up their stalls and sell anything from cheese and meat and fruit to cooking utensils and clothing, but look out for the local speciality foods. There will usually be a van or stall offering hot food, often a regional dish.

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      Along the Route des Vins d'Alsace (Route 3)

      If you are not fortunate enough to be in a village or town on market day, then head for the boulangerie, the baker's shop. Every sizeable village has one selling bread rolls and

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