is one of the oldest buildings in this part of Shetland. The Cheynes were lairds of the Tangwick estate and other parts of Shetland.
From the museum drop down the lane around the back that leads westwards to the beach at the Houb, then continue along the low cliffs to Gro Taing and onwards to the natural coastal arches of Fiorda Taing.
Offshore lies the spectacular island of Dore Holm, with its huge natural arch. It is quite often referred to as ‘Horse and Man Rock’, or ‘Drinking Horse Rock’ – the latter name seems much more fitting.
Go around the bay to Utstabi, then the cliffs begin to rise again as you near Stenness, with the Isle of Stenness and Skerry of Esha Ness lying just offshore. Continuing towards Esha Ness itself, the way leads across broken, rocky ground around the Bruddens and the Cannon before you reach the lighthouse at the end of the B9078.
The name Esha Ness comes from the Old Norse for ‘Headland of Volcanic Rock’. Black basalts and purple andesites make up the geology, and agates and amethysts can be found within these hard volcanic rocks.
Backpacking at the Holes of Scraada
Johnny Notions’ Böd
Walk around the seaward side of the lighthouse and along the top of Calder’s Geo, where many seabirds will be nesting below your feet.
Calder’s Geo is a huge void cutting into the cliffs at Esha Ness. Kittiwakes (known locally as ‘waegs’) and fulmars (‘maalies’) nest here, while razorbills (‘sea craas’) and guillemots (‘looms’) can also be seen. Everyone’s favourite seabird, the puffin (‘tammy norrie’) is also present, and shags (‘scarfs’) nest at the bottom of the cliffs.
John Williamson of Hamnavoe is one of many great characters remembered by all in the North Mavine area. Always known locally as Johnnie Notions because of his inventive mind, in the 18th century he designed his own inoculation against smallpox, saving thousands of local Shetlanders from this terrible disease without losing a single patient – and all without the benefit of any kind of education! The Böd, which is now a small bunkhouse, stands where his house once was, and is a great place to spend the night.
Walk around Calder’s Geo and continue along what must surely be some of Britain’s most dramatic coastline. In two places the sea has found weaknesses in the rocks of the cliffs and forced subterranean passages through to blow-holes set well back from the cliff edge. One of the best examples of this is at the Holes of Scraada near the Loch of Houlland.
The Loch of Houlland is a good place to see breeding arctic terns (known hereabouts as ‘scooty aalins’) and great skuas (‘bonxies’). These birds can be very aggressive if you approach their nests or young, so be warned!
The cliffs continue, taking you past the Grind of the Navir as you approach the Head of Stanshi along the Villians of Ure, a fantastic name for a cliff top if ever there was one! Continue walking around the Geo of Ure and the Dale of Ure until you enter the delightful bay of Hamna Voe. Stroll into Braehoulland and walk around to the pier. If you are staying at Johnnie Notions’ Böd you should continue around the bay past Scarff to the hamlet of Hamnavoe itself.
The Holes of Scraada
Day 2
Begin the day by heading out westwards from Johnnie Notions’ to the sea. Turn north and walk along the cliffs of the Villians of Hamnavoe to the Burn of Tingon. This can occasionally be difficult to cross and you may have to head inland a short way to find a safe place. North of here you’ll come to the Hole of Geuda near the Geo of Ockran, another fine bay with a waterfall pouring into it from the hill above. Continue around Ockran Head and on past Clew Head to the superb headland of the Faither, which gives good views eastwards of Lang Ayre, the biggest beach in the Shetland Islands, backed by Ronas Hill, the highest hill.
Across Ronas Voe you can see the impressive Stonga Banks dropping to the beach at Lang Ayre. Above this rises Ronas Hill, at 450m the highest hill in the Shetland Islands, and enjoying almost arctic weather and terrain to match. There are many rare arctic plants growing here, and it is also a good place to see upland waders nesting in the summer.
The seas north and west of the Faither are often a good place for whale watching. In summer you might be lucky enough to spot minke whales, sperm whales, killer whales or even humpback whales. There are also good numbers of dolphins and porpoises. In all, 22 species of cetacean have been recorded in the waters around Shetland.
The route now leads southeastwards alongside Ronas Voe. You can either stay along the shoreline until you hit the minor road at Heylor, then follow that back to Urafirth, or continue along the shore only as far as the Stack of Sumra, then begin a slow climb up over rough grass and heather to Turning Hill. On Turning Hill you may see nesting great skuas, which will probably dive bomb you as you walk past.
Continue southeastwards up to Septa Field, then on to the curious lake known as Gersfield Water. This is a good place to see red-throated divers, but be careful not to disturb them during the breeding season.
Head south from the loch to the summit of White Grunafirth, where an OS trig pillar stands at 173m. From here head eastwards over rough ground to a track that takes you to Assater, then down to Upper Urafirth and the end of a fine walk.
WALK 2
Shetland – Mainland South
| Start | Scalloway Castle (grid ref HU404393). Catch a bus from Lerwick to Scalloway – there are regular buses daily. |
| Finish | Grutness, just south of Sumburgh airport (grid ref HU404100). Regular daily buses run to Lerwick from Grutness, or simply catch a plane home from Sumburgh airport. |
| Distance | 68km (42.25 miles); Day 1 – 37km (23 miles), Day 2 – 31km (19.25 miles) |
| Total Ascent | Total: 1570m; Day 1 – 930m, Day 2 – 640m |
| Maps | OS Landranger sheet 4 Shetland, South Mainland |
| Number of Days | 2 |
The Shetland Islands offer such superb backpacking over rugged coastlines that you could spend weeks here and never tire of it. Of the group of islands making up the Shetlands, Mainland is by far the largest and offers good scope for the explorer on foot. South Mainland is a long, narrow peninsula, never more than a few kilometres wide east to west, but extending for some distance south of the capital of Shetland, Lerwick.
Lerwick lies on the east coast of Mainland, about halfway down the length of this mainly north–south running land mass. On the opposite side of Mainland lies the only other town in these parts, Scalloway. The walk starts here and takes you southwards along the west coast of Mainland, through some wonderfully wild country with superb views out to the islands of Trondra and East and West Burra. There isn’t much in the way of habitation throughout the length of South Mainland, apart from a few settlements at the halfway point and the odd farm building, and this sense of remoteness makes this a truly memorable walk.
