summers are usually hot and dry, especially on the upland plains, where there is little shade for walkers and no water; in the Mont Lozère region there may be irritating flies in the wooded areas. Mid-July to August is the height of the tourist season, and anywhere in France should be avoided!
Do not attempt to visit the northern Cevennes in the winter months unless you want to cross-country ski!
Accommodation
Although the Cevennes is a tourist area and does offer hotels, gîtes, bed and breakfast establishments and a wide range of camping sites, it must be remembered that the villages and towns are widely dispersed, so the choice of places is limited. It does not have as many places at the top end of the market as you would find, for example, in Provence.
The walker has the advantage that it is really too hot to walk in July and August when most places are full and the camping sites are cheek by jowl. It is much easier to find accommodation in May, June, September and October, when there are fewer people about and prices are lower. It is always advisable to book in advance, though this is not essential.
Hotels in France are typically less expensive than in England and are great value – the only things missing are the tea-making facility in the bedroom and, of course, the hearty breakfast – you pay extra for this in a French hotel. Most rooms have en-suite bathroom or shower and WC. The choice is wide, and below are some recommended hotel chains.
Logis de France: This is a nationwide network of hotels which offers comfortable accommodation and excellent food at reasonable prices. The hotels are graded from one to three star according to their degree of comfort (look for the distinctive logo which consists of a yellow fireplace on a green background). For information on the Logis de France hotels in the Cévennes area look under the section Languedoc-Roussillon on the website www.logis-de-france-languedoc-roussillon.com.
Campanile Hotels: These tend to be on the outskirts of towns rather than in villages. They are usually modern and impersonal, catering more for the family market rather than the discerning tourist. For a list of hotels visit www.campanile.com.
Châteaux and Independent Hotels: If you want to go up-market there is a book published with a list of lovely looking châteaux (often with the owners acting as hosts) and independent hotels available all over France. There is a description in English and a photo of each establishment. Prices of the rooms and meals are clearly marked. Some of them are not at all expensive for what they offer! For further information visit their website: www.chatotel.com.
Gîtes de France: Very popular with the English, these are country cottages which are available for a weekly rent all over the French countryside and are good value. They can vary from extremely comfortable to quite basic so read the explanation beside the photo carefully! It is a good idea to pick an area of the book that appeals to you and then rent a gîte in a central position for the walks indicated.
For a list of gîtes in the Cévennes area visit their website: www.gitesdefrance.fr and look for the section‘Languedoc Roussillon’.
Gîtes d’étape: These are youth hostels of a particular type, usually without a warden, but open to people of all ages. They can be reasonably comfortable with good beds, showers and a well-equipped kitchen, but they can also be quite basic and are mainly intended for cheap overnight stops by walkers and cyclists. If you prefer not to cook your own meals there is often a café/restaurant in the vicinity.
In the high season they can be uncomfortably full, but are a wonderful way to get to know fellow-travellers and share a convivial evening. Out of season you often have the place to yourself. The only snag is that you may have to hunt for the person responsible in the village or nearby (usually posted on the door) to get access to the gîte.
For a list of gîtes d’étape in the Cévennes area visit the website www.gitesdefrance.fr.
Chambres d’Hotes: This is the French equivalent of bed and breakfast, though often the breakfast is not included or, if it is, is limited to coffee and bread (croissants if you are lucky). The number of these establishments is increasing all over France (look for the Chambre d’Hôte sign or enquire in the local café or shop).
The degree of comfort varies tremendously, and, unlike in British establishments, you will rarely get a TV or beverage-making facility in your room. Most rooms have their own shower/toilet, but you could be sharing with the family.
For a list of Chambres d’hotes in the region visit the website www.gitesdefrance.fr.
Camping: The Cevennes region is particularly favoured with camping sites, especially in the Gorges du Tarn area. Camping sites are graded from one to five star, and range from those offering a shop, hot showers and a swimming pool to sites providing only basic washing facilities.
Camping à la ferme is cheap and popular, though the facilities are minimal – remember some toilets in France, especially on camping sites, are still of the squat variety!
The local tourist offices (see Appendix C) have a complete list of camping sites. Most of them speak English and will gladly send the information. Visit the website www.gitesdefrance.fr which also publishes a list of camping sites.
Clothing and Equipment
When you think of southern France you imagine that the sun never stops shining and it is always agreeably warm in summer and winter. This is not the case in the Cevennes, which has a harsher climate and more defined seasons. In spring and autumn it can get cold and rainy, and in the summer it can be unbearably hot, especially on the Causses (high plateaux) where there is little shade.
The best solution is to dress in light layers and, even if the weather looks good, take a windproof jacket; choose the breathable type to avoid getting hot and sweaty. When the sun shines the rays are more intense than in Britain, so sun protection is important, as is a shady hat. The type of trousers which zip down into shorts are very practical as on many of the walks there are prickly gorse and broom bushes which scratch bare legs.
The most suitable footwear for walking in the Cevennes is a lightweight pair of sturdy boots with plenty of ankle support and soles that grip well on rocky terrain.
As none of the walks described is long, a light- or medium-weight rucksack is quite adequate. An outside strap for a water bottle is useful in this region, where you must take lots of water. It is wise to carry a compass and altimeter, provided you know how to use them! They are not essential for these walks, but can be helpful in bad weather. A mobile telephone is also useful, but note that they do not work in all areas of the Cevennes.
The following is a suggested list of essentials for your rucksack for a day’s walk:
map as stipulated on the walk description
compass
basic first aid kit including insect repellent
survival blanket (useful if you get lost or hurt)
high-factor sun cream and lip salve
sun hat and sunglasses
woolly
