to enable walkers to either leave or slot in as desired. Fit walkers – or those in a hurry – can combine the occasional shorter stages.
The trek follows good paths and does not demand special alpine expertise. Nothing more than a decent level of general fitness and willpower is required to deal with the lengthy hauls.
Part I (Stages 1–11) starts at Viozene and traverses the Ligurian and Maritime Alps, concluding at Pontechianale in Valle Stura.
Part II (Stages 12–23) begins at Pontechianale and crosses the Cottian Alps, ending at Susa in Valle di Susa.
Part III (Stages 24–36) strikes out from Susa across the Graian Alps, reaching Quincinetto in Valle d’Aosta.
Part IV (Stages 37–47) commences at Quincinetto and moves off through the Pennine Alps, terminating at Molini Calasca in Valle Anzasca.
Highlights
Thanks to the abundance of links with transport hubs, a variety of rewarding circuits can be worked out. Suggestions concentrating on the highlights and suitable for shorter one-week holidays are given here. Each begins and ends at a location served directly by – or within reasonable distance of – public transport.
6 days Through the heart of the magnificent Maritime Alps from Limonetto (Stage 3) to the Terme di Valdieri, followed by a loop via Rifugio Questa and Lago di Valscura, returning to the Terme (Stage 8).
7 days Approaching the Monviso from Valle Varaita (Stage 15) and traversing the Waldense/Occitan valleys as far as hospitable Usseaux (Stage 21), in the proximity of the massive 18th-century fort of Fenestrelle in Val Chisone.
6 days Starting out from Susa (Stage 24) at the GTA’s entry into the Graian Alps, a series of stiff climbs across high scenic passes, destination the Gran Paradiso National Park. Noasca (Stage 29) is a suitable point to bail out.
7 days From Piedicavallo (Stage 41) in pretty Valle Cervo, the GTA hones in on Monte Rosa, each day offering new angles on the glaciated massif. Picturesque Walser villages are visited and the trek’s conclusion incorporated (Stage 47).
Main peaks
The GTA encounters an impressive string of major alpine peaks, each a worthwhile objective in its own right. Walkers with basic climbing experience can tackle the Marguareis and Rocciamelone, while the Argentera, Monviso, Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa are reserved for experienced mountaineers or those accompanied by a guide. Mid–late summer is the recommended period for ascents so as to minimise chances of encountering icy conditions. For further details see Appendix II.
When to Go
As is the rule throughout the Alps the midsummer months from late June to mid-September are ideal for this trek. From early July the highest passes will normally be snow-free and – most importantly – all accommodation will be open. Typical summer conditions will enable you to walk in a T-shirt, shorts and sunhat, the heat tempered by occasional downpours and storms; but ‘once-in-a-blue-moon’ dumps of snow – even in August – should not be discounted. The ranges on the very edge of the Piedmont plain are sometimes enshrouded in insidious mist that rises from the lower altitudes where it forms in midsummer. Visibility is obviously spoilt and vigilance essential to keep on the right track. (Bottom line: be prepared for everything!) The onset of autumn can bring gloriously clear skies (if chilly air), a wonderful time for those used to bivouacking under the stars when needs be. Late spring is also suitable for self-sufficient experienced walkers prepared to deal with substantial snow cover. Many posto tappa hostels adjoining a restaurant or hotel are open all year round, and make perfect bases for day excursions out of season.
The busiest period for Italian holidaymakers is the first half of August. In addition to the Christmas–New Year–Epiphany period and Easter, there are public holidays on 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 15 August, 1 November and 8 December.
Getting There
See the general map (p.7) for rail and road networks.
By air
Thanks to the proximity of international airports in northwestern Italy and neighbouring France and Switzerland, access to the GTA – and away at its conclusion – is straightforward. (See table on opposite page.)
Handy for the trek’s conclusion, the city of Domodossola has both a direct train service to Geneva airport (3hr) as well as a special shuttle bus to Milan’s Malpensa airport (reservations essential at
By rail
Northwest Italy is served by scores of long-haul international trains from France and Switzerland, the majority calling at Milan or Turin. Unless travelling on an international route or long-distance at peak times, seat reservation is not necessary and fares reasonable. Note The FS Italian Rail is now introducing cheap fares on some routes – for special offers check out the web site www.trenitalia.com, also useful for timetable information.
By road
Several major toll-paying autostrada arteries feed into northwest Italy from France via the Mediterranean coast and Ventimiglia; further north from Modane via Bardonecchia to Susa; through the Mont Blanc tunnel and a motorway down Valle d’Aosta. There are also myriad minor roads crossing passes from Switzerland.
To the start of the GTA
Trains from Turin’s Porta Nuova station run south to Ceva, where a change must be made for the single-track line to Ormea. Services from the Italian Riviera via Savona also stop at Ceva, as do those from Cuneo via Fossano or Mondovì. Ormea can also be reached by road thanks to the Imperia–Cuneo coach. From Ormea a July–August shuttle bus covers the final 15.4km to the actual start of the GTA at Viozene, but check with the local Tourist Office
Access to the start for Parts II–IV is detailed in the route description, as are the many exits.
FLIGHT DESTINATIONS FROM THE UK
Both low-cost and regular airlines from the UK fly into the following destinations (check the individual airport’s web sites if flights from other countries are needed).
Turin (Torino): Caselle Airport (www.aeroportoditorino.it) to the north of the city has flights from British Airways (www.britishairways.com), Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Trains then convey passengers to the centre of Turin in 20min; the coach takes twice as long.
Milan (Milano) has two airports, both included on www.sea-aeroportimilano.it: Malpensa is served by Alitalia (
