are useful ferryports at Cagliari and Olbia, with links to Italian ports, and most ferries are operated by Moby Lines www.moby.it and Tirrenia www.tirrenia.it. The occasional ferry from the Italian town of Civitavecchia to Arbatax, leading directly to the area covered by this guidebook, is operated by Tirrenia. There are other ports and operators, and sailings from France and Spain, but these are less useful as they berth too far from the area covered by this guidebook.
Getting Around Sardinia
Car hire
Cars can be hired on arrival in Sardinia, and it has to be said that cars offer the easiest and most convenient approach to many of the walks in this guidebook. However, some walking routes are linear, and a car is less useful, unless drop-offs and pick-ups can be arranged. If hiring a car, be warned that some of the roads used to reach walking routes are long, lonely, narrow and bendy. In other words, it takes time to get to and from some walks, and it therefore makes more sense to be based in a number of villages near a selection of the routes than to drive long distances from a single base (see ‘Where to stay', below).
By law, drivers must have their licences with them at all times, so don't ever leave yours behind at your lodgings. Road rescue (ICA) can be contacted by dialling 116. The driving distance between Olbia and Cagliari is about 300km (186 miles), using the SS125 road. At least 100km (62 miles) has to be travelled from either place before any of the routes in this guidebook can be accessed.
The village of Taquisara flares into life in the summer when the Trenino Verde arrives (Walk 33)
Trains
The layout of Sardinia's railways is simple, and journeys between some towns can be covered effectively and enjoyably. However, the rail network is little use for reaching the area covered by this guidebook. Although there is a railway station at Nuoro, anyone trying to catch a train from Cagliari or Olbia will be told quite bluntly to catch a bus instead. In the middle of summer, a couple of incredibly convoluted mountain railways operate, known as the Trenino Verde. These are best enjoyed by railway enthusiasts, and while they are immensely scenic and enjoyable, they are too slow and infrequent to be of use to walkers.
Buses
Buses allow all towns and most villages within the area covered by this guidebook to be reached, and the author used them effectively while researching this guide. However, anyone relying exclusively on buses needs dedication, as the system is not easily understood. Timetables are almost impossible to get hold of once you are in the area. Even at the main bus stations, details are scanty at best, and you will struggle to get hold of anything useful.
Buses often run from early in the day until late, surprisingly regularly in some places and less frequently in others (maybe only once a day, and perhaps not at all some days). You need to know the level of provision before you reach the area, and the only place to locate the information you need is the main bus website – Azienda Regionale Sarda Trasporti (ARST) www.arst.sardegna.it. Information is available only in Italian, and it is a struggle to figure out how the site works, but be assured that all the fine detail about routes and timetables is there. Once again, you will not get this level of detailed information once you reach Sardinia, so print out everything you need.
ARST buses are dark blue, and in some areas there are also light-blue FdS buses. The latter are technically part of the railway system, but are effectively merged with ARST. Bus stations (stazione dei pullman) exist in towns, while villages and country roads have bus stops (fermata). In case of difficulty finding a bus stop, ask a local person for help. Bus drivers may not be keen to pick up or drop passengers off between stops, but may do so on request. Make it quite obvious from the roadside if you want a bus to stop, making sure that there is a safe space to pull over. Be sure to give the driver advance notice if you want to get off the bus in a remote place.
Tickets (biglietti) are exceptionally good value, but must be bought before boarding a bus, usually from bars or tobacconists. Again, ask a local person for help to locate a sales outlet. Tickets must be validated by machine on boarding buses, although sometimes the driver does this. If a ticket cannot be bought in advance, bus drivers may sell one on board at an inflated price, or they may insist, with obvious ill-feeling, that passengers get off the bus at a sales outlet further along the route and buy a ticket.
Notes on timetables may include the following terms – da X per X (from X to X), per X da X (to X from X), giornaliero (daily), feriale (Monday to Saturday), scolastico (schooldays), domenica/festivo (Sunday/holiday) and con cambio a X (change at X). If you don't understand specific terms, ask someone for an explanation long before you need to catch a bus.
Large towns have their own bus companies running frequent urban services. These include CTM at Cagliari, ASPO at Olbia and ATP at Nuoro. Tickets must be obtained before boarding buses and validated on boarding. They are good value, generally allowing unlimited travel for a period of 90 minutes.
Taxis
In some instances, where buses are infrequent or absent, and car hire is unavailable, a taxi might be sought. Unfortunately, taxis are extremely rare outside the main towns and resorts, and while they seem good value for short urban journeys, they are prohibitively expensive for long journeys into remote areas. Bear in mind that some companies that offer trekking tours are willing to provide lifts to and from the places they regularly take their clients (there are lots of posters advertising these tours – just give the company a ring for more information).
Pointing out a route along the coastline of Ogliastra
Accommodation
Despite the apparent remoteness of some mountain villages, a range of accommodation is often available in a surprising number of places. Tourist information offices carry annually updated accommodation booklets, listing everything from hotels and guest-houses to hostels and campsites. Listings can be checked online – for Nuoro www.provincia.nuoro.it on the ‘Turismo' link, followed by ‘Guida all'Ospitalità’; and for Ogliastra www.turismo.ogliastra.it on the ‘Dove Dormire' link. Interestingly, the English term ‘Bed and Breakfast' features abundantly on roadside notices, although that is no guarantee that the proprietors will speak any English. If a wide range of walks from this guidebook are to be covered effectively, it is probably necessary to stay at a number of locations around the area in order to avoid spending too long travelling.
Of particular note is The Lemon House, a guest-house at Lotzoraì run by Peter Herold and Anne McGlone www.peteranne.it. They offer particular assistance to outdoor enthusiasts, covering such diverse activities as walking, rock-climbing, cycling, kayaking and general touring. They can help, if necessary, with guiding and accompanying their guests and with language issues. Walkers without cars have access to several bus routes at Lotzoraì, and the couple regularly offer guests lifts to and from nearby routes and attractions.
Health and Safety
Visitors are unlikely to contract any illness in Sardinia that they couldn't get at home. (Some low-lying parts of Sardinia used to be malarial, but the island was sprayed with DDT after the Second World War and the disease was eradicated.) All towns and many villages have pharmacies that can provide over-the-counter relief and remedies. More serious illness or injury might require
