the grated coconut and squeeze again to obtain thin coconut milk. Cans or packets of concentrated coconut milk make a good substitute; dilute according to the instructions for thick or thin coconut milk.
Curry leaves are sold in sprigs of 12-16 small, slightly pointed green leaves. There is no substitute, although they are sometimes sold frozen.
Dried prawns are best kept refrigerated in a humid climate. Look for brightly-coloured, plump prawns. Soak for about 5 minutes to soften.
Galangal is an aromatic root used throughout most of Southeast Asia, known as lengkuas in Singapore and Malaysia, as laos in Indonesia and as kha in Thailand. The fresh root can be sliced and deep-frozen for future use.
Garam Masala is made from a blend of spices. It is available premixed from Indian foodstores but is easily made at home. Gently roast 30 g cinnamon sticks, 10 g cardamoms, 5 g cloves, 15 g fennel, 5 g black peppercorns and 4 bay leaves until aromatic then cool and grind to a fine powder. Store in an airtight container.
Hay koh is also known as black prawn paste and is sometimes labelled petis. This thick black paste has a strong fishy taste and is used in some Nonya dishes such as Penang Laksa and Rojak sauce.
Ikan bilis, or dried white-bait, are tiny whole fish ranging in size from 1 ½- 6cm (½-2 ½ m).' If possible, buy cleaned whitebait which have had the heads and dark intestinal tracts removed; otherwise, snap off the heads and flick out the intestinal tract with the point of a sharp knife for each tiny fish.
Kangkung is a highly nutritious leafy green vegetable also known as water spinach. Young shoots may be eaten raw as part of a salad platter or with a dip. The leaves and tender stems are often braised with chilli and spices.
Kiam Chye (salted pickled mustard cabbage) is used in some Chinese and Nonya dishes. Soak the heavily salted cabbage in water for 45 minutes to remove some of the saltiness, repeating if necessary
Lap cheong, or sweet, dried Chinese sausages are perfumed with rose-flavoured wine. They are never eaten alone, but sliced and cooked with rice or other foods.
Noodles are very popular in Singapore and many different types are used. Fresh yellow egg noodles (mee) are made from egg, wheat flour and water and sold in varying thicknesses. Rice flour noodles resemble white spaghetti and are used in laksa. Dried rice vermicelli noodles or beehoon are thin noodles made from rice flour and water.
Tofu or bean curd comes in various form. Soft tofu is silky and smooth. Tau kwa is hard tofu that has been compressed to expel most of the moisture. Tofu skin is the dried skin that forms on top of boiling soy milk; it is dried and sold in sheets as a wrapper, or as taufu kee, d, thick twisted skin added to meat or vegetable dishes. Small squares of fermented tofu are sold in jars. They are either red on the outside, if flavoured with chilli and spices, or creamy white and used as a condiment with rice porridge. Another type of bean curd sometimes added to braised dishes or soups is dried-fried bean curd, Tau pok, which is generally sold in small rectangles. These are often sold on strings in Asia, but are elsewhere usually packed in plastic. They are light and spongy in texture, and need to be dipped briefly in boiling water to remove the oil before being used. Dried deep-fried bean curd has as almost nutty flavor and is particularly appreciated for the way it soaks up the liquid to which it is added. It can be kept refrigerated for at least two weeks.
Rice vinegar is a mild and fragrant vinegar. You may substitute distilled white vinegar, however reduce the quantity.
Rice wine is used in many Chinese recipes. The best wine is from Shao Xing in China; substitute sake or dry sherry.
Soy sauce is brewed from soy beans and sometimes wheat fermented with salt. It is salty and used as a table dip and cooking seasoning. The most common type is regular light soy sauce, with a medium salty taste. Black soy sauce is thicker and less salty with a malty tang. In Indonesia, sweet soy sauce, or kecup manis, is the most widely used variety.
Star anise is a dried brown flower with 8 woody petals, each with a shiny seed inside, which gives a flavour of cinnamon and aniseed. Use whole and remove from the dish before serving.
Tamarind juice adds a fruity sourness to dishes. Soak 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) water, then squeeze and strain the mixture to obtain the juice.
Wild ginger buds, or torch ginger, are the edible bud of the ginger plant. It is sometimes called bunga siantan or bunga kantan in Singapore.
Yu tiao (Chinese crullers) are 2 long sticks of dough stuck together and then deep-fried. Sometimes called Chinese doughnuts (yu char kway), they are savoury rather than sweet and are traditionally eaten with rice porridge (congee). They are available in Asian fresh markets.
Singapore Rojak
(Spicy Fruit and Vegetable Salad)
½ cucumber, sliced
1 small bangkuang, peeled, quartered and cut into thick slices
200 g (7 oz) kangkung, cut into lengths and blanched in boiling water for 1 minute
1 square firm tofu or tau kwa (pressed tofu), shallow-fried until golden brown, then sliced into 8 pieces
60 g (1 ¼ cups) bean sprouts, blanched for 10 seconds, rinsed and drained
2 slices pineapple, cubed
1 unripe green mango, peeled and sliced
1-2 yu tiao (Chinese crullers), cut into 6-8 pieces (optional)
1 wild ginger bud, sliced (optional)
Sauce
2-3 large red finger-length chillies, deseeded and sliced
1 tablespoon shaved gula melaka (palm sugar) or brown sugar (page 15)
1 teaspoon belachan (dried shrimp paste), toasted (page 3)
2 tablespoons tamarind pulp, soaked in 125 ml (½ cup) water, squeezed and strained to obtain juice
1 tablespoon hay koh (black prawn paste)
½ teaspoon salt
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