The Reivers Way. Paddy Dillon

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href="http://www.nationalexpress.com">www.nationalexpress.com. Some long-distance Arriva buses operate to Newcastle, and the city is one of the hubs in their network, tel 0870 1201088, www.arrivabus.co.uk. Classic Coaches offer an interesting, regular cross-country service from Blackpool to Newcastle, www.classic-coaches.co.uk.

       By Train

      Regular daily trains from Newcastle serve the start and finish of the Reivers Way, Corbridge and Alnwick. Services from Newcastle to Corbridge are operated by Northern Rail, www.northernrail.org. Services from Alnmouth to Newcastle are operated by Cross Country trains, www.crosscountrytrains.co.uk, and Northern Rail, www.northernrail.org.

       By Bus

      Arriva North East provides the bulk of bus services out of Newcastle, www.arrivabus.co.uk. There are also half-a-dozen minor bus operators providing useful rural services around different parts of Northumberland, and these are mentioned in the guidebook where appropriate.

       Traveline and Taxis

      It can be frustrating trying to gather individual public transport leaflets, and there is no comprehensive public transport guide covering Northumberland. However, details of all modes of transport to the area can be checked with Transport Direct, www.transportdirect.info. Public transport in and around the county can be checked with Traveline North East, tel 0871 2002233, www.travelinenortheast.info. If a taxi is needed at any point and you don’t have any local numbers, call the National Taxi Hotline – on 0800 654321 – and they will connect you with the nearest taxi in the scheme, so that you can negotiate a journey and check the price.

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      Some places have very little accommodation, such as Harbottle, which has only a single bed and breakfast (Day 6)

      Organising lodgings on a long-distance walk requires a willingness to search diligently and juggle options to create a workable schedule. Accommodation around Northumberland is unevenly spread, so while some places may have plenty of options, others have very little. Start by checking the most ‘awkward’ locations first, such as the remote farmhouse bed and breakfast at Uswayford (end of Day 6/start of Day 7), and work outwards from those places once you have secured a bed. Sheer pressure of walkers can affect all available lodgings near popular Hadrian’s Wall. The coastal resort of Seahouses offers abundant accommodation, but it can be very busy in the summer.

      In case of difficulty obtaining accommodation, a simple bus journey off-route may bring plenty more options within reach. If detours off-route are going to be made, then be sure to obtain the relevant bus timetables in advance, and build the necessary time into your schedule to leave and re-join the route. In some cases, nearby accommodation providers may be prepared to do pick-ups and drop-offs, but arrange this well in advance if required. If something prevents you from reaching accommodation that has been booked, call the proprietor at the earliest opportunity and explain. This might enable them to take another booking and avoid losing money, and if they know you are safe, they won’t be worrying about you and possibly calling out the rescue services.

      Places with lodgings are mentioned throughout this book, and a basic accommodation list is given in Appendix 2, but bear in mind that these things tend to change quite frequently. For up-to-date details of accommodation, check the Northumberland Holiday and Short Breaks Guide, which can be obtained free by calling 01670 794520 or visiting www.visitnorthumberland.com. The guide is available from tourist information centres, and in most cases such places will be able to advise and assist with booking accommodation, possibly saving many fruitless phone calls.

      While there are several shops, pubs, restaurants and cafés around the Reivers Way, they are very unevenly distributed. On some parts of the route there may be no refreshments available throughout the day, and if staying overnight at Uswayford (end of Day 6 and start of Day 7), evening meals should be ordered well in advance.

      Never set out on any part of the Reivers Way without first noting the availability of food and drink for at least a couple of days in advance. Be sure to carry sufficient provisions to allow for lengthy gaps between shops, taking special note of the paucity of services in the broad and bleak Cheviot Hills.

      Things change – Harold Wade noted services that were gone by the time James Roberts walked the route, and I in turn have noticed services that have disappeared, as well as completely new ones. In one instance I saw a pub in a village which, on my return a few months later, was closed. Be prepared for changes.

      While an increasing number of accommodation providers, shops, pubs and restaurants will take credit cards in payment, many don’t, and walkers will need a certain amount of cash to cover goods and services while on the move, especially on the more remote parts of this trail. If unsure about carrying large amounts of cash, at least try and budget ahead, then be aware of any places along the way that have banks and ATMs. Many are mentioned in the route description, and some supermarkets offer a ‘cashback’ service.

       Corbridge, tel 01434 632815

       Hexham, tel 01434 652220

       Otterburn, tel 01830 520225

       Rothbury, tel 01669 620887

       Wooler, tel 01668 282123

       Seahouses, tel 01665 720884

       Craster, tel 01665 576007

       Alnwick, tel 01665 511333

       When to Walk

      Spring can be a splendid time to walk the Reivers Way, when the countryside is bursting with new life. Lambs are suckling in the lower pastures, flowers rise from fields and roadside verges, and migrating birds arrive and sort out their nesting sites.

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      Walking in the winter months means limited daylight, but good progress is possible when wet ground freezes

      The peak summer period offers the longest daylight hours and possibly the best weather. Lowland hayfields are mown to stubble, while heather moorlands turn purple and the bracken lies deep on the hillsides. Some heather moorland might be used for grouse shooting. Accommodation in popular places might be fully booked, but apart from that all services should be in full swing and ferries will be running to the Farne Islands.

      Autumn is a time for harvesting crops, and the daylight

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