The Ayrshire and Arran Coastal Paths. Keith Fergus
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The track then descends slightly to a fork in the road. Go right here (passing a couple of farm buildings on the left) before the track levels out into mixed woodland consisting of beech, birch, hawthorn, and rowan with the surrounding landscape becoming more agricultural. The track makes for easy and enjoyable walking and, as it sweeps 90° round to the left, crosses an old bridge to develop into a farm road.
The road continues on to reach a waymarked sign where a track bears left towards the small rise of Craigangal. Continue down this track until it turns right. Walk along the flat farm track with Craigangal now to the left and views of Carlock Hill, Milgarva and Green Benan to the right. Just after a bend in the track, go through a wooden gate which in turn gives way to another wooden gate.
The track then descends past an old ruined cottage and at this point becomes boggier and rougher. Walk down the track towards the coast through lovely Currarie Glen with the attractive waters of the Shallochwreck Burn tumbling to the right of the track. Kintyre is directly ahead as the track continues to descend steeply to the beautiful cove of Currarie Port: a real hidden gem that is unreachable except on foot or by boat. This wild, rocky and windswept cove is a great example of the fantastic scenery on offer all along the Ayrshire coastline.
Toadstools in Currarie Glen
Once Currarie Port is reached, cross the beach to pick up a path that keeps to the right of the burn and then go through a gate. A stony and eroded path then climbs steeply, with a sharp drop to the right affording great views across Currarie Glen. The mixed woodland of the glen looks stunning during the autumn months.
At the top of the slope go through a metal gate then turn left to walk along an indistinct path that climbs steadily between bracken on the left and a fence to the right. A short climb leads to the top of the hill and to a waymarked sign at a gate pointing straight ahead. Go through the gate and walk along the path between a dyke and a fence. Take care as the path is very narrow here and the walking underfoot is quite rough. Upon reaching the end of the dyke cross it and bear right onto an open field from which a narrow path can be followed with steep cliffs to the left and a wall continuing to the right. This path leads towards the conspicuous profile of Downan Hill and is one of the finest sections of the entire route, with exemplary views extending across the Firth of Clyde to Arran as well as further along the Ayrshire Coast.
Walk northeast along the path, passing a waymarked post until a fence is reached. Follow the line of the fence downhill towards another waymarked signpost, then cross a small wooden bridge and keep walking downhill past a third waymarked post. A narrow, grassy path descends to a small, shallow burn and then climbs to an electric fence. Keep to the edge of the field and walk along the path, following the white-capped posts of the electric fence as it ascends and descends round a steep gully to a wooden gate. The path maintains its course as it climbs to a wooden gate and a waymarked signpost at the base of Downan Hill. Turn left here and follow a grassy track which heads away from Downan Hill towards the coast, with fine views of Ballantrae signifying that the first port of call is near.
Continue along the path as it follows the course of a dry stone dyke, reaching two wooden gates at either side of a farm track just to the north of Downanhill Cottage. Once through the gates turn left onto a farm road and walk along it, passing through the substantial Langdale Farm and the smaller Downan Farm. The path then turns northeast to pass Kinniegar Farm to reach the road end. Turn left onto another road and walk along it, passing through the hamlet of Garleffin before the road joins the A77. Turn left here onto the pavement running beside the A77 with views towards the ruin of Ardstinchar Castle on the edge of the village of Ballantrae.
Ardstinchar Castle was built by Hugh Kennedy of Ardstinchar, a commander of Scottish troops who fought with Joan of Arc against English forces at the famous Siege of Orléans (1428-1429), an extremely significant battle of the Hundred Years' War in which Joan of Arc first established her renown. Thanks to his military prowess, Hugh was subsequently chosen to escort King Charles VII of France on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. On his return the king bestowed upon him a knighthood and a substantial golden handshake that allowed him to purchase the land on which Ardstinchar Castle was built. It is said that Mary, Queen of Scots spent the night here in 1563.
The short walk along the pavement then crosses a bridge over the River Stinchar. This bridge was built in 1964 but the older bridge, dating from 1770, can be seen a few yards further upriver. The road passes Ardstinchar Castle and continues onto Ballantrae's Main Street, where the finish point of this route is reached at the small but perfectly formed Kennedy Mausoleum.
Ballantrae was formed as a burgh in the 16th century, following the building of the castle here by the Kennedy family in the middle of the 15th. It translates from the Gaelic Baile an Traighe as ‘the village on the shore’ and its peaceful setting provides splendid views of the surrounding landscape and coast; it is a lovely place to spend some time. For many years Ballantrae was a fishing port, with smuggling commonplace along the coastline. Robert Louis Stevenson used the name of the village in his 1889 novel The Master of Ballantrae.
The compact but charming Kennedy Mausoleum
THE KENNEDY MAUSOLEUM
The Kennedy Mausoleum lies in the heart of the village and was built in 1604 by Lady Bargany. Her husband Gilbert Kennedy (who was Laird of Bargany) was killed in 1601 by the 5th Earl of Cassillis, John Kennedy, in an infamous incident that has since become known as ‘The Maybole Snowballing’. Gilbert's funeral was apparently attended by over 1000 men on horseback and several dignitaries. He was subsequently buried at Ayr but when Lady Bargany died in 1605 both their bodies were taken to Ballantrae and laid to rest in the Kennedy Mausoleum. The graveyard also has some interesting gravestones, many of which commemorate those drowned at sea.
DAY 2
Ballantrae to Girvan
Start | Kennedy Mausoleum, Ballantrae NX 083 824 |
Finish | Girvan harbour NX 182 982 |
Distance | 13 miles (21 km) |
Time | 5 hours |
Terrain | Fairly flat using sandy and shingly beach, pavements, an old coach road and grass verge. However, there is one section that travels directly beside the busy A77 trunk road for a couple of miles where only a verge separates you from the road. Take great care here, especially if you are in a large group or with young children or dogs. |
Maps | OS Landranger 76; OS Explorer 317 and 326 |
Refreshments | There is a shop and hotel in Ballantrae, a bistro at Lendalfoot and several shops, pubs and restaurants in Girvan. |
Transport | Regular Stagecoach buses run between Girvan town centre and Ballantrae (See Appendix C). Girvan railway station (services including Ayr, Kilmarnock and Stranraer) is on Vicarton Street. |
From Ballantrae the route heads down to the village's lovely harbour and onto a long stretch of sandy beach leading to Bennane Head (at one time the home of the notorious cannibal Sawney Bean). From here the path climbs directly beside the main A77 trunk road, which has to be crossed twice during the route so real care must be taken. The route descends into the quiet hamlet of Lendalfoot where a mixture of pavement and shore leads towards Kennedy's Pass and onto a superb old coach road that climbs high above the coast, providing magnificent views as well as being