The Adlerweg. Mike Wells

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The Adlerweg - Mike Wells

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three trains, a funicular, a tram and a bus, all integrated into the path. It is possible to avoid some of the cablecars and chairlifts, and this guide indicates where such options occur.

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      Alpenpark sign in Karwendelgebirge (Stages 8–12)

      Although going through no designated national parks, much of the route is through areas with a high level of environmental protection or national forest. The Wilderkaiser, Karwendel, Arnspitze and most of Lechtal valley are naturschutzgebieten (NSG, nature protected areas) while other places are landschaftsschutzgebieten (LSG, similar to Areas of Special Scientific Interest in the UK). Brandenberg and Tegestal are national forests managed by Osterreichische Bundesforste (OBF). Proposals have been made to create national parks, but this high level of protection has been blocked by opposition from hunting interests, which are strong in Tyrol. Camping, lighting fires, disturbing wildlife or removing plants are prohibited in these areas.

      When to go

      The Adlerweg is a summer walk with a season from mid-June to early October, although after heavy winter snowfall significant snow may remain at higher altitudes until mid-July, with early season falls commencing in early September. In a few locations, snow can remain all year. Opening and closing dates of mountain refuges and restaurants reflect the walkability of the paths, with refuges on the highest stages not opening until late June/early July and closing from mid-September. The most popular period for walking in Tyrol is mid-July to late August, and this is when you may encounter busy refuges, particularly those such as Karwendelhaus that coincide with the popular Vital Route mountain bike trail. You will meet very few walkers actually following the Adlerweg, although you will encounter many day walkers and even some walking the Munich to Venice long-distance route. Parts of the walk can be attempted in winter, but as this requires specialist skills and equipment it is not covered in this guide.

      Apart from late lying snow, or early snowfalls, the going underfoot is usually excellent. The underlying stratum is limestone, resulting in good drainage with very few places prone to boggy conditions. After rain, or in mist, rocks can get very slippery and some of the stages over exposed rock can become treacherous. These parts of the trail are usually protected by fixed steel cables providing security in slippery conditions.

      How long will it take?

      The Adlerweg is not a walk to take lightly. It is possible to walk the entire route in 15 days, but this requires an average of seven hours’ walking every day, covering 20km, mostly above 1000m and sometimes above 2000m. To achieve this daily distance and ascent at altitude you need a good level of fitness. If you wish to take it more gently, five hours walking, covering 14km per day, will enable you to complete the walk in three weeks. Moreover, this will allow you time to see more of the region and visit a number of attractions passed en route such as a cruise on Achensee, a visit to the Alpen zoo or a cablecar to the summit of Zugspitze.

      Each of the 23 stages can be walked in a day, most in less than this, allowing one and a half or two stages to be combined on most days. However a few stages, particularly Stage 11 (the crossing of Birkkarspitze from Karwendelhaus to Hallerangeralm), take a full day. Appendix B gives a suggested schedule showing which stages can be combined to walk the path in either 15 or 21 days.

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      The Adlerweg climbs into Rofangebirge through Schauertalkar to reach Schauertalsattel (Stage 7)

      With a few exceptions, which are shown in the text, it is not usually necessary to book ahead. Indeed Alpenverein (AV) refuges only require reservations from groups and recommend other members not to book, as places are guaranteed. However if you want a bedroom rather than a dormitory place, booking could be useful. For locations such as Hintersteinersee, Kaiserhaus, Fernstein and Bschlabs, where there is no AV accommodation and only one private guesthouse/inn/hotel, reservations are recommended. The same applies to private refuges with only a small number of beds, particularly at weekends.

      HOLIDAYS IN AUSTRIA

      There are a number of Austrian national holidays during the summer. On these days banks are closed and public transport operates feiertage (holiday) timetables, which are usually the same as Sunday schedules.

       Easter: variable, late March to late April

       May day: 1 May

       Ascension day: variable, May

       Whit Monday: variable, mid-May to mid-June

       Corpus Christi: variable, late May to late June

       Assumption day: 15 August

       National day: 26 October

       All Saints day: 1 November

      School summer holidays run from mid-July to mid-September. Most towns and villages have summer festival days, and from mid-September to early October many villages celebrate Almabetriebsfest, when cows are welcomed back from summer mountain pastures (see box in Stage 21). In Innsbruck, the battle of Bergisel is commemorated on 14 August.

      Tourist offices

      Tourist offices operate at both regional and local levels. Tirol Werbung in Innsbruck is responsible for marketing Tyrol as a tourist destination and part of this role involves setting up, managing and promoting the Adlerweg network of paths. They produce a map and guide to all 128 stages and through their website www.adlerweg.tirol.at individual Kompass 1:50,000 maps of each stage can be downloaded. While the guidebook provides excellent outline information, it is not sufficiently detailed to walk the path as only one paragraph is allocated to each stage.

      A popular pastime of Tyrolean walkers is to collect the passport type stamps available at every refuge and most hotels and guesthouses. To encourage Adlerweg walkers to participate, Tirol Werbung has produced a stempelbuch (stamping book) that can be obtained from their offices in Innsbruck. When you have completed your walk, you can claim an eagle pin, in gold, silver or bronze colours depending on how many stamps you have collected. Alternatively, a few pages at the end of this book have been left clear for you to collect your stamps.

      Every town and most villages have their own local tourist office, which can provide local maps and full details of accommodation and events in their area. Opening times vary and smaller offices may not be open at weekends. Staff are generally very helpful and speak good English. Advice is provided on all grades of accommodation and most offices will call to check vacancies and make reservations. They cannot make reservations ‘out of area’ but are usually willing to phone the relevant local office and relay your requirements. Contact details for all tourist offices can be found in Appendix C.

      Alpine Club

      Founded in 1862, the Oesterreichischer Alpenverein (OeAV, Austrian Alpine Club) now has nearly 400,000 members involved in all kinds of mountain sports. Among other activities, it is responsible for building, maintaining and modernising a large number of mountain refuges, waymarking and maintaining footpaths, producing maps and guidebooks and aiding the independent rescue service. It works closely with the Deutsche Alpenverein (DAV, German Alpine Club) which owns and operates the majority of mountain refuges on the Adlerweg. Many of these were built by DAV sections early in the 20th century to provide mountain recreational facilities for members throughout Germany. After WW2 they were placed under Austrian control,

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