Walking in Menorca. Paddy Dillon
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Barrack-style buildings above Cala Corb in the village of Es Castell.
Turn left along a road, the Passeig Marítim, which bends right and climbs, becoming the Avinguda del Port. Reach a crossroads where the long distance Camí de Cavalls passes (see GR223 – Stage 1).Turn right to follow a broad pavement beside the road, straight back to Es Castell. Finish at the bus stop on Plaça de S’Arraval Vella. A bus can be caught here back to Maó.
WALK 2
Cala de Sant Esteve and s’Algar
Start | Plaça de S’Arraval Vella, Es Castell |
Finish | Bar Via Maris, Alcalfar |
Distance | 8km (5 miles) |
Total Ascent/Descent | 110m (360ft) |
Time | 4hrs |
Terrain | Easy at first, mostly along roads, then difficult, rough and rocky afterwards, with a few short, steep and rocky ascents and descents. |
Refreshment | Bars and restaurants available in Es Castell, s’Algar and Alcalfar. |
Public transport | Regular daily buses link Maó with Es Castell. Summer buses serve Sol de l’Est, s’Algar and Alcalfar. |
This walk follows roads from Es Castell to Cala de Sant Esteve, in common with the GR223, or Camí de Cavalls. However, when the GR223 moves inland, this walk follows the rugged cliffs onwards as closely as possible. Paths can be vague in places and the ground is often rough and rocky. The rewards for the effort are views of fine cliffs and access to a splendid rocky inlet at Caló de Rafalet. A short walk at the end links s’Algar and Alcalfar.
This walk starts at Es Castell (hotels, shops, bar restaurants) or if summer buses are in operation, it is possible to start at nearby Sol de l’Est, but this saves less than 1km (½ mile) of road-walking, so it is neither here nor there. Leave the bus stop at Plaça de S’Arraval Vella and continue along the main road from a roundabout. Although there is a GR223 signpost across the roundabout, there is no pavement on that side.
The road has a broad pavement alongside and eventually reaches a crossroads. Sol de l’Est lies to the left, but walk straight ahead as signposted for Fort de Marlborough, passing a cemetery. Reach a signposted junction and note Castillo de San Felipe ahead, an occupied 18th-century fort, but turn right instead. Walk along and down the road, passing fields, then fork right down a broad path flanked by bushes. This is bendy and cobbled and avoids using the road to reach the narrow inlet of Cala de Sant Esteve.
The attractive bendy and cobbled path down to Cala de Sant Esteve
Turn right to follow the road round the head of the inlet, passing cave houses and the cave-like entrance to Fort de Marlborough – an early 18th century British redoubt. The GR223, Stage 1, leaves Cala de Sant Esteve by a different route. Continue along the road to the mouth of the inlet, stepping down onto a rocky platform. See where blocks of stone were quarried and cut, leaving level areas and stepped profiles. Pick a way round the cliffs, and climb up rock steps to continue along a trodden path. Later, parts of the cliff are breaking off, so keep clear of the edge.
Head for a prominent stone tower which can be entered by climbing a set of bent metal steps.
The view from the Torre d’en Penjat stretches from the mouth of Port de Maó and its many fortifications, inland to Monte Toro, the highest point on Menorca.
Thick walls flank the tower, so follow one of these directly down towards the sea. Turn right through a gap with steps to continue. There are two sizeable houses above the rocky shore, surrounded by walled fields. A trodden path keeps seaward of these walls, although it isn’t particularly clear where it crosses bare limestone. First, squeeze between a wall and tamarisk bushes, then follow a trodden path, passing a livestock shelter and a ruin.
Follow the path until a small rocky inlet is reached at Caló des Vi Blanc, where the wall turns a corner. There is a stone step-stile in the corner, offering a way over the wall, if squeezing past the wall above the inlet doesn’t appeal. Either way, the path onwards is vague, rising rockily and stonily, passing through a gap in a wall. Use the wall as a guide ahead, but feel free to search for the least rugged ground underfoot. Turn round a point at sa Cigonya to reach a curious small stone building. The coast features masses of rocky slabs that have been flipped over by mighty storms.
Massive boulders litter the shore near the point of sa Cigonya
Follow the wall onwards to a little inlet, and look carefully to spot a rocky path climbing to the top of the cliffs. There is a lot of rock and scrub around, so find and follow a vaguely trodden path. If in doubt, then keep the cliff edge in view, but don’t get too close to it, and continue carefully across bare and broken rock. A wall reaches the cliff edge, and a stone step-stile crosses it. Follow the path downhill, passing carefully around an inlet where the cliffs overhang. Marvel at the house-sized boulders in the sea.
Pass between the end of a wall and a cliff edge, where the path squeezes between bushes, and walk uphill to go through a gateway gap in a wall. There is a slight dip along the cliff edge at Penyal Alt des Sòtil, with lots of euphorbia bushes dotted around. Limestone pavement reaches the cliff edge; then there is a stone stile over a wall. Pass through a cleared, grassy, stony space surrounded by bushy scrub. A trodden path squeezes into the bushes and runs downhill, rocky underfoot. Do not go down the cliffs using a trodden path, but head inland a bit to pick up a wide, trodden earth path instead. Follow this carefully downhill, crossing steep rock, continuing down to a tiny sandy beach hemmed in by wonderfully attractive cliffs at Caló de Rafalet.
The narrow, rocky inlet of Caló de Rafalet is reached before s’Algar.
There are two ways to leave this inlet. One is to walk directly inland, up a well-wooded valley, linking with the GR223, then turn left for Alcalfar, or right to return to Cala de Sant Esteve. The other way is to climb back from the sand, over rocks, and as soon as the path levels out, turn left and climb up the steep, rocky wooded slope. A winding path leaves the woods and rises on a more open slope of scrub and bushes. A stone step-stile crosses a wall close to some houses.
Walk down a road running parallel to the cliffs. The rock alongside is savagely eroded and generally too difficult to walk across. When the road later turns right inland through the resort of s’Algar (hotels, shops, bars, restaurants, summer buses, taxis), go down Carrer d’es Sol and turn right to pick up another coastal road with a promenade path and palm trees alongside. Stay on the promenade and pass seawards of s’Algar Diving, passing a curious blend of mock-paved concrete and low rocks.
A notice reads ‘Playa Beach Strand Alcaufar’ and a path follows a wall past rampant mixed bushy scrub. Squeeze between a couple of houses and turn right up a road, Carrer de Xaloc, into the village of Alcalfar. Turn left to reach a junction, then turn right to reach a bus stop opposite the Bar Via Maris. The GR223, Stage 1, can be followed onwards.
WALK 3
Maó and Trebalúger
Start/Finish | Plaça d’Espanya, Maó |
Distance | 15km (9½ miles) |
Total Ascent/Descent | 100m (330ft) |
Time | 5hrs |
Terrain | Mostly
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