and through the 19th century, boatbuilding was a thriving industry even in the smallest of settlements and least promising locations, as the roads were in a poor state and goods were often transported by sea.
Hundreds of vessels of many types, such as smacks, schooners and brigs, were built at this time and the economies of Cardigan, Aberystwyth and Aberaeron were largely based on this industry. The vessels plied their trade not just up and down the coast, but also across the Atlantic. Limestone and timber were major imports, and slate (especially from ports north of Machynlleth) was the main exported commodity. Wherever there was boatbuilding, so secondary trades went hand in hand, including rope and sailmaking, insurance and customs.
The advent of steam power, and of iron as a ship-building material, meant a decline in demand for the timber-built sail-powered boats; and the arrival of the railway, which enabled goods to be moved more easily by land, led to a wholesale demise of the industry. By the beginning of the 20th century it had largely disappeared.
The limestone industry
Limestone was a significant import in the 19th century. It was burnt in kilns to produce quicklime for use in building mortar, and for ‘sweetening’ the agricultural land; all along the coast – again, especially south of the Dyfi – there are limekilns, sometimes in quite out-of-the-way places.
A well-preserved limekiln at Cwmtydu (Day 13)
At the kilns the limestone was crushed, usually by hand, to a uniform size and built up into a dome, with alternate layers of coal inside the furnace on a grate above the ‘eye’ of the kiln (the air intake). The kilns were all roughly the same size, as this accommodated the optimum size of fire: any bigger and the coal and limestone would collapse under their own weight. Lime-burning was not only thirsty work but also unhealthy because of the smoke and fumes.
The coming of the railways meant that lime could be transported around the country more easily by larger manufacturers, so the small-scale individual limekilns became unprofitable and fell out of use.
The slate industry
Thousands of tonnes of slate per year were won from vast galleries in the hills of North Wales, particularly during the 19th and into the 20th century, with tramways and narrow gauge railways built to bring it to the coast for export. Serving the Rheidol Valley mines, a railway went down from Devil’s Bridge to Aberystwyth carrying slate and zinc. This is now the famous Vale of Rheidol Railway. From near Abergynolwen, slate from the Bryn Eglwys Quarry went to Tywyn on the Talyllyn Railway. And from the vast slate area around Blaenau Ffestiniog, the Ffestiniog Railway linked to the coast at Porthmadog.
Tourism
As the boatbuilding, limestone and slate industries declined, partly as a result of the arrival of the railway, it was the railway itself that prompted the growth of seaside resorts. Tourism remains a vital part of the economy of the area, based on its proximity to Snowdonia, on attractions such as the narrow gauge railways and on the magnificent coast.
A plaque near the Urdd Centre marks the official opening of the Ceredigion Coast Path (Day 13)
Walking the Ceredigion and Snowdonia Coast Paths
How long will it take?
Strong walkers could complete the full walk in just less than two weeks, averaging 22km (14 miles) a day. This would leave little time to wander through some of the settlements or visit the attractions along the way. Averaging about 16km (10 miles) a day, the walk would take you 15 days. It is also worth considering building in ‘rest days’ in order to visit, say, Harlech Castle, or ride one or more of the narrow gauge railways (see Visitor attractions, below). With conveniently spaced settlements, good links to public transport and available accommodation, the path could easily be broken down into shorter sections, giving time to explore and enjoy the scenery and the wildlife. For this you might need to allow about three weeks, possibly split between more than one holiday. It would also be perfectly possible to base yourself in one place for a few days and use public transport to reach the start of, and to return from, each day’s walk (see Appendix A and Appendix B).
How strenuous is it?
It is all too easy to underestimate the amount of climbing involved in much of the coastal walking in the British Isles. While long stretches of the Snowdonia Coast Path (being alongside saltmarshes or along sandy beaches) enable a fast pace, there are also some big ascents, especially between Maentwrog and Llandecwyn and on the routes out of Fairbourne and Llwyngwril, and also on the hill alternative between Tal-y-bont and Barmouth (Day 4).
The Ceredigion Coast Path is a surprisingly challenging walk overall, with many ups and downs and some big days, requiring a good level of fitness.
Walkers on one of the steep slopes north of Llanrhystud (Day 10)
Alternative routes: high tide routes and other options
At Borth and at New Quay it is possible to follow the beach at low or falling tide, and there are official alternative routes for when the tide is high. Between Cwmtydu and Ynys Lochtyn (Day 13) there is an official inland alternative for those who wish to avoid the exposed coastal path.
The beach crossing of the Afon Cledan near Llansantffraid on Day 11 can be difficult when the river is in spate: a short inland detour is available.
Between Tal-y-bont and Barmouth the official Wales Coast Path at present is actually along the main A496 for 4km (2½ miles), which is highly unsatisfactory. This guide gives an unofficial beach alternative (low tide only) and an unofficial and highly recommended hill alternative. For times of low tides useful websites are www.bbc.co.uk/weather/coast_and_sea and www.tidetimes.org.uk.
Other suggested alternatives, where the official route is unsatisfactory, are between Minffordd and Penrhyndeudraeth, south of Maentwrog, at Harlech, at Tre’r-ddôl, near Tywyn and at Machynlleth. A short off-route detour is also suggested at Furnace.
Walking with dogs
The path passes from time to time through areas with livestock, through areas important for wildlife and close to cliff edges, so if you must take a dog with you it must be kept under close control.
Allt-wen from Aberystwyth promenade (Day 9)
When to go
Given the unpredictability of the British weather these days, there is no guarantee that you will enjoy more favourable conditions at certain times of the year, although on average the months of April to July are the driest (or should that be least wet?). Often, however, the coastal strip will be pleasant while the weather just inland is poor. From spring into summer, when the wildflowers are at their best, is also a good time to be walking the path. Some people may prefer early autumn, when the trees are just starting to turn. And while winter is unlikely to be a good time to be walking the whole path, a short section on a couple of well-chosen calm days would be rewarding if you are especially interested in the wintering birdlife on the marshes and in the estuaries.
