beyond the pine forest. Descend via the road and sections of footpath, E4-waymarked, to this saddle with its large concrete water tank (locked). Continue down the road, passing a waterpoint and concrete ‘washboard’ terrace before you enter the village.
Koustoyerako has two kafeneia, but they are unlikely to be open. A Souyia taxi can be called, but expect to wait because they are usually busy. There are no rooms because Koustoyerako villagers channel their enterprise into the beach resort of Souyia. However, trekking groups sometimes camp here (enquire).
Koustoyerako to Souyia
The footpath down to Livada village (30mins) starts alongside the kafeneon (closed) near the War Memorial, on the plateia. A delightful path in the spring, this old mule track negotiates the steep vegetated hillside, losing height through shady olive groves and across flower-strewn terracing. Turn left, south, when you reach the main road to walk (for 30mins) through Livada and downhill as far as a T-junction, where a dirt road heads due south. Follow this dirt road for the remaining 1hr walk to Souyia. When you reach a T-junction, turn left, uphill, to find the E4 sparsely waymarked footpath section down to the riverbed. Alternatively, turn right and follow the road down to the riverbed.
WALK 6A
Koustoyerako to Xyloscala via Strifomadi
| Start | Koustoyerako 500m (1640ft) |
| Finish | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Distance | 14km (8¾ miles) |
| Grade | D |
| Time | Koustoyerako to Olisma 1000m (3280ft) 2hrs 30mins; to Achlada cistern 1300m (4265ft) 1hr 30mins; to summit 3hrs; to Xyloscala 2hrs; total: 9hrs. From Souyia to Koustoyerako on foot add 3hrs. |
| Highest point | Summit of Strifomadi 1921m (6302ft) |
| Height gain | 1421m (4662ft) |
| Height loss | 681m (2234ft) |
| Access | Taxi from Souyia |
| Access to finish | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
As well as that described in Walk 6, there is an alternative walking route from Souyia up to Koustoyerako. Take a minimum of two litres water per person.
On foot from Souyia
Cross the riverbed on the E4 Trail (see Trek 10A) and ascend the marked footpath to reach the first dirt road of the hillside. Here turn left, and then uphill, right, at the next junction. Walk up this road as far as a stand of beehives (a potentially non-permanent feature), just under the south-facing side of a spur descending the hillside. Now make your way straight up this spur, which is free of the crags that are a feature of the hillside further north near Livada village. By doing this, you will encounter a road at about 500m (1640ft), which contours northwards directly to Koustoyerako. This road serves a radio station that overlooks the coast. If you happened to tramp this otherwise likely-looking road south from Koustoyerako, and arrived at its end, you would then have to clamber down a very steep hillside to reach the E4 coastal path.
Reverse the route notes for Walk 6 from here. Where the route divides at Olisma: north is Walk 7 in reverse, east is for Walk 6 in reverse.
It is easy to reverse the route described in Walk 6. From the ‘beehive’ spur, continue on the dirt road to the T-junction with the main Koustoyerako road. Turn uphill for Livada, a linear village perched on a steep hillside. After passing the last outlying hamlet of Livada, which is sited on a spur below the road, keep a careful lookout for roadside cairns that mark the footpath up to Koustoyerako. There is woodland here. The path gains height steeply, passing through terraced olive groves.
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