177 and 185This is a very pleasant walk through an area that was once a hive of industrial activity, with woollen mills, iron forges and corn mills scattered along the banks of the river. The contrast between the valley, where river, road and rail all vie for space in its narrow confines and the quiet expanses of the rolling hill country to the west, is very noticeable. The route initially follows a lovely section of the River Gwili, then crosses the track of the Gwili Steam Railway before climbing steadily along grassy lanes and farm tracks to reach the hamlet of Newchurch. The return is along peaceful lanes, tracks and valley footpaths with a chance to visit the lovingly restored Gwili Steam Railway.
From the car park, pass to the right of the village hall towards the River Gwili and go left along a riverside footpath, passing to the right of the cricket ground. This lovely section of footpath above sparkling rapids and stony beaches soon ends at a well placed bench above the river, where it is necessary to turn left over the track bed of the Gwili Steam Railway and along the left edge of two fields. At a gate continue ahead, passing to the left of a house to reach the A484 and cross to the far side.
Turn right along the footpath for 150 metres, then go left along a narrow no through road that passes to the right of the chapel. The road climbs steadily up the side of the Nant Cwmdwyfran Valley before swinging right around a sharp U-bend towards farm buildings. Immediately after passing through the gateway to the farm, turn left and negotiate a step stile through a wall, immediately left of a gate, and follow the stony track ahead as it climbs between fields, revealing some excellent vistas over the Gwili Valley and towards the Black Mountains.
Although the fields surrounding the Gwili Valley are well drained and very lush, providing excellent grazing for sheep and cattle, the valley itself was regarded as being too steep sided for normal agricultural use, so much of it has been planted with woodland, large tracts of which can still be seen.
Continue along the track to its end in front of Foel-fâch Farm and turn left along a quiet lane, eventually swinging right to reach a T-junction. Go right then almost immediately left along another lane, passing to the right of the building Ffoslun Uchaf. Follow this short section of lane to another T-junction and here turn left to eventually reach the hamlet of Newchurch.
St Michael’s, Newchurch
As early as the 12th century, Newchurch was known as Eglwys Newydd, suggesting that St Michael’s Church, which stands here now, is of Norman origin, but replacing an earlier Celtic church. Two inscribed Christian stones dating from the fifth or sixth century, probably from the earlier church, have been found near here.
On entering the village, turn left immediately before the first house on the left, and follow a pleasant grassy bridleway between high field banks and passing through several gates as it descends into the pretty Nant Hir Valley. Cross the stream and continue ahead, beginning the steady ascent out of the valley. Parts of the route here can become a little churned up after wet weather due to lack of drainage and cattle using the bridleway.
At the end of the bridleway, turn left along the access drive to Llecheigon Farm to reach the road then go right along this for just over 1.5km, with views to the right over Carmarthen in the latter stages. Turn left at a bridleway sign on the left, crossing a cattle grid and joining a concrete access drive that soon descends into the Nant Tinc Valley.
At a fork in the drive, bear right, crossing a cattle grid and following the drive towards Clynmelyn Farm. In the bottom of the valley the drive crosses the Nant Tinc stream and 30 metres beyond this, bear right off the drive, passing through a pair of galvanised gates into a meadow. Go left through the meadow, keeping parallel to the stream, to a stile on the far side and once over bear slightly left along a grassy track between trees, climbing steadily up the side of the valley initially, before descending towards Pante Farm, with fabulous views to the west towards the Brecon Beacons.
Where the track swings sharp right towards Pante Farm, turn left and climb a stile beside a gate (waymarker) and walk along the right edge of a sloping field to a stile on the far side, leading onto an access drive to cottages and follow this down to the A484. Cross the A484 to a footpath on the far side and bear left, turning right at the first opportunity at the junction leading to the Gwili Steam Railway. To visit the railway continue down the road for 350 metres to reach Bronwydd Station on the left where there are toilets and a café.
Steaming up on the Gwili line
The Gwili Railway is a lovingly restored monument to the nostalgic days of steam that now puffs its way along part of what was formerly the Carmarthen to Aberystwyth railway, which operated for over 100 years until closure in 1965. The Gwili Railway was formed in 1975 and by 1978 had purchased and rescued about 13km of track bed and was running its first steam-hauled service on just over a 1.5km section of what is the first standard-gauge railway to be preserved in Wales. Since then the railway has expanded and currently runs to Danycoed Halt, some 5km northwest of its base at Bronwydd Arms. At the time of writing, the company has begun work further south, towards Carmarthen, and has re-laid track to a new station called Carmarthen North built at the old Abergwili junction.
Turn right again after 20 metres and follow the narrow lane steeply down to cross the railway line followed by the River Gwili. Immediately on the far side of the bridge turn left over a stile and join a riverside footpath that runs along the left edge of fields, through a short section of woodland and round the edge of another field, always with the river to the left, before eventually reaching a lane on the outskirts of Bronwydd. Go left along the lane to a T-junction and go left over Pont Newydd Bridge, which marks the end of the walk.
WALK 2
Cenarth and Newcastle Emlyn
| Start/Finish | Car park, Cenarth Falls (SN 269 416) |
| Distance | 11km (7 miles) |
| Ascent | 305m (1005ft) |
| Time | 3–4hrs |
| Maps | Explorer 198 |
| Refreshments | Pubs and cafés in Cenarth and Newcastle Emlyn |
| Public transport | Bus 460 between Carmarthen and Cardigan stops in both Newcastle Emlyn and Cenarth. No services on Sun. |
The River Teifi is one of the longest rivers in Wales and recognised as being of international importance for its wildlife. It also forms the county boundary in this part of the country, so the southern half of the walk is in Carmarthenshire, while the northern half steals over the border into Ceredigion. It also visits the spectacular Cenarth Falls and the lovely town of Newcastle Emlyn. It mainly follows clear footpaths, quiet lanes and largely clear tracks, but a problem could lie at the start of the walk when the river is in spate and the riverside footpath is under water; at such times a short section of road can be used to avoid the hazard.
From the car park, join the riverside footpath, passing the spectacular falls and walking along the beautiful wooded gorge of the Afon Teifi. The building on the opposite bank is a 17th-century flour mill, complete with waterwheel. If the river is in spate and the riverside path inundated, go left along the road for a short distance and take the first turning on the right, opposite the chapel to rejoin the walk in 800 metres.
Cenarth is famous for its waterfalls, where
