(Stage 17)
1708m Cima La Nuda (Stage 18)
2054m Monte Prado (Stage 18)
1895m Monte La Nuda (Stage 19)
1859m Monte Sillara (Stage 21)
1851m Monte Marmagna (Stage 22)
1830m Monte Orsaro (Stage 22)
Wildlife
Roe deer and timid fallow deer are numerous all along the Apennine chain and are easy to spot grazing on the edge of woods in the early morning and late afternoon. Majestic red deer are more rarely seen, mostly in the heavily forested Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi. Originally introduced from northern Europe in the 1800s in the interests of the game reserve belonging to the Grand-Duke of Tuscany Leopold II, their numbers were boosted in the 1950s and the population, now estimated at around two thousand, is the largest in the whole of the Apennines.
A more recent arrival is the marmot, which hails from the Alps. Modest colonies can be observed in the northern Apennines at elevations between 1000 and 2000m. A burrowing rodent resembling a beaver or ground hog, its habitat is stony pasture slopes. The trick in spotting these cuddly comical creatures is to listen out for the piercing shriek of alarm from the sentry on the lookout for eagles, their sole enemy. Marmots spend the summer feasting on flowers and grass with the aim of doubling their body weight in preparation for hibernation around October; they re-emerge in springtime.
Inquisitive goats and horses check out walkers on the GEA
Then there is the wild boar, a great nuisance in view of the inordinate damage it wreaks, rooting around in cultivated fields and woodland. Scratchings, hoofprints and ripped-up undergrowth along with curious mudslides are commonly encountered signs of its presence, though the closest most walkers will get to one is stewed on a restaurant plate at dinnertime as, despite their reputation for fierceness, they are notoriously reticent. The thriving modern-day population is the offspring of prolific Eastern European species introduced to supplement the native population for the purposes of hunting, a collective sport practised with unflagging enthusiasm since Roman times. In adherence to a strict calendar – usually in the November–January period – vociferous armed groups tramp hillsides and woods with yapping dogs sniffing out the elusive creatures.
In woodland the eccentric crested porcupine is not uncommon, but incredibly timid (not to mention nocturnal). Its calling cards are striking black-and-cream quills found on many a pathway, often denoting a struggle with an optimistic predator. The ancient Romans, ever the epicures, brought it over from Africa for its tasty flesh, a great delicacy at banquets (along with dormouse).
Anti-social badgers, on the other hand, leave grey tubes of excrement, but in discreet spots, unlike the foxes whose droppings adorn prominent stones. One of the few forest dwellers active in the daytime is the acrobatic squirrel, easily seen in mid-flight scrambling up the trunk of a pine. The clearest sign of their presence are well-chewed pine cones together with a shower of red scales at the foot of the trees.
In the wake of centuries-long persecution due to fear and ignorance, combined with increasing pressure by man destroying forests and enlarging settlements and pasture, wolves disappeared completely from view in the 1960s. However, sightings of these magnificent creatures are now regular occurrences along the Apennine chain as the population has expanded successfully northwards, recent studies confirming their safe arrival in the Alps. Rather smaller than their North American cousins, the Apennine males weigh in around 25–35kg. Their coat is tawny grey in winter with brown-reddish hues in the summer period. They were afforded official protection as of the 1970s. Stable packs have been reported since the 1980s, aided by the increase in wildlife, and therefore food: wild boar is their favourite prey, though they do not disdain roe deer, sheep and other livestock, for which shepherds receive compensation. Look out for their droppings – dark boar hairs account for the pointy extremity.
Darting lizards such as the eye-catching bright-green variety scuttle through dry leaves, warned off by passing walkers. At the opposite end of the speed scale is the ambling but unbelievably dramatic fire salamander, prehistoric in appearance and splashed yellow and black. Long believed capable of passing unharmed through fire, it inhabits beech woods and damp habitats, the females laying their eggs in streams. A rare relative is the so-called ‘spectacled’ salamander, endemic to the Apennines, and recognisable by yellow-orange patches on its head.
Tiny Lago Martini is passed on the way to Passo del Giovarello (Stage 21)
Birds include the omnipresent cuckoo, a constant companion, as well as squawking European jays flying between the treetops, bright blue metallic plumage glinting, sounding the general alarm for other creatures of the woodland. The elusive woodpecker can be heard rat-tat-tatting rather than be seen. Huge grey-black hooded crows are common in fields, as are colourful pheasants which give themselves away with a guttural coughing croak. Nervous ground-nesting partridges take flight from open bracken terrain with an outraged loud, clucking cry.
Birds of prey range from small hawks and kestrels through to magnificent red kites and buzzards, and even the odd stately pair of golden eagles on rocky open ground. But the overwhelming majority are the thousands of ‘invisible’ songbirds chirping and whistling overhead as you make your way through the woods; early spring is the best time to see them before the trees regain their foliage. In contrast open hillsides are the perfect place to appreciate the skylarks, their melodious inspirational song sheer delight, though more often than not they will be upset by the presence of intruders and make frantic attempts to distract attention from their ground nests. On a warm summer’s day huge screeching numbers of house martins, swifts and swallows form clouds around high summits, attracted by the insects conveyed upwards by air currents; they are also commonly seen in villages, as they swoop below eaves and clay-straw nests sheltering their ever-hungry youngsters.
On sunny terrain, especially in the proximity of abandoned shepherds’ huts and farmland, snakes may be seen preying on small rodents or lizards. The grey-brown smooth snake, green snake and a fast-moving coal-black type are harmless, though the common viper or adder, light grey with diamond markings, can be dangerous if not given time to slither away to safety. Remember that it will only usually attack if it feels threatened. While not especially numerous, the viper should be taken seriously as a bite can be life-threatening. In the unlikely event that a walker is bitten by a viper (vipera in Italian), immobilise the limb with broad bandaging and get medical help as fast as possible – call 118.
Old paved way above Boscolungo (Stage 16)
At medium altitudes, a postprandial stroll through light woodland on a balmy summer’s evening may well be rewarded with the magical sight of fireflies in the undergrowth.
A special mention goes to the humble red wood ant, easily observed in the Abetone forest. They construct enormous conical nests in coniferous forests, which they then protect by devouring damaging parasites. The nests are home to hundreds of thousands of workers which can live up to the venerable age of 10 years, and queens that can survive to the ripe old age of 20!
Last but not least, mention must be made of ticks (zecche in Italian). While not exactly in plague proportions, they should not be ignored as the very rare specimen may carry life-threatening Lyme disease. Ticks prefer open areas where grass and shrubs grow and they can attach themselves to warm-blooded animals or walkers. A good rule is to check
