Cumrew Fell is almost detached from the main massif of the North Pennines, with the headwaters of the River Gelt draining its eastern slopes, and the little villages of Castle Carrock, Cumrew and Newbiggin lying at the foot of its western slopes.
It is possible to link minor roads, stony and grassy moorland tracks, and an assortment of field paths passing a few farms, to make a complete circuit around the lower slopes of the fell. The first half of the walk passes through the remote King’s Forest of Geltsdale, established for the hunting of wild boar in the 14th century, now managed by the RSPB.
Start in the pretty village of Castle Carrock, where the Duke of Cumberland offers food and drink, while across the road lies Gelt Hall Farm bed and breakfast. The bus link with Brampton is very infrequent and if used, needs to be checked carefully.
Leave the village by following the Geltsdale road uphill and downhill, continuing straight down a track from Jockey Shield to cross an arched stone bridge over the River Gelt. The river’s name is derived from the Norse ‘geilt’, meaning ‘mad’, and is locally known as the Mad River, flowing fast and furious at times through a narrow sandstone gorge.
Turn right to follow the track onwards and fork left uphill before reaching a cottage. Keep climbing to pass a gate and later reach a junction of grassy tracks. Turn right here and head gently downhill, enjoying views around the head of Geltsdale.
Pass another gate and follow the track up and down, passing a stout, uninhabited house at Gairs, before crossing How Gill. The grassy track leads uphill, and the remains of an old colliery can be seen up to the left, before the track levels out at the Gairs Viewpoint at 362m (1188ft).
There is a fine view back through Geltsdale from this point, but the sign for the viewpoint actually marks the end of a moorland trail from the RSPB reserve at Tindale Tarn (see Walk 2). Look out for birds of prey, including buzzards, kestrels, peregrines, merlins and hen harriers.
Go through a gate on the heathery slopes of Tarnmonath Fell and head downhill, following the track as it winds down to cross a bridge above a small waterfall on Old Water. The track climbs again, running as a green ribbon straight ahead, gently up and down on a moorland slope.
An old limekiln is seen on a gap in the moorlands high above the village of Newbiggin
The track becomes rather overgrown as it reaches a gate overlooking New Water. There used to be a stone bridge here, but it collapsed long ago, leaving only a single abutment. Fording the river will result in wet feet if there has been a lot of recent rain.
A rugged path climbs from the river and gets better further along, becoming a good track. Keep straight ahead at a junction, noting a shooting hut up to the right on the slopes of Cumrew Fell. Also look out for ruined limekilns, some distance away on either side of the track, while crossing a broad moorland gap over 360m (1180ft).
The track runs straight downhill, becoming quite steep, and is followed almost to a minor road near Townhead on the outskirts of Newbiggin. If a break is needed, the Blue Bell Inn is available in the village.
To continue the walk, don’t walk onto the road, but turn right through a gate where a public bridleway signpost indicates Foul Sike. Stay close to a fence beside Bove Wood to locate a series of gates leading from field to field.
When a gate leads onto the B6413, turn right to follow the road. Keep an eye on a prominent church tower ahead and don’t miss the short, but rather overgrown path on the right, which leads through metal kissing gates to St Mary’s Church in the village of Cumrew.
Walk straight along a minor road through the village, admiring the distinctive roadside gas lamps. Keep straight ahead at a road junction, following a narrower road which later climbs past a small forest.
Don’t follow the road to the right, to Turnberry, but go straight through gates to follow a patchy road through fields to Albyfield. Walk straight past the buildings, through the farmyard, then up into a field and down through another field. When another minor road is reached, turn right to follow it up to Brackenthwaite.
Walk straight ahead at the farm then turn right and left, passing through gates as marked from field to field, reaching another minor road below Roughethill. Turn left down the road to reach the head of a reservoir. Variant: If time is of the essence, you can stay on the road here and later continue straight along a track, keeping to the west side of the reservoir.
Turn right at the head of the reservoir to follow a track along the east side of the reservoir. When the road is reached, turn left to walk straight back into Castle Carrock.
WALK 4
Croglin, Newbiggin and Croglin Fell
| Start/Finish | The Robin Hood, Croglin (NY 574 472) |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Terrain | Good firm tracks and paths lead onto and off the moors, but there are a couple of river fords and a climb up a rugged moorland slope. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 86; Explorers OL5, OL31, OL43 and 315 |
| Refreshments | Pub in Croglin. Pub off-route in Newbiggin. |
| Transport | Very occasional buses link Croglin and Newbiggin with Penrith and Carlisle. |
There are no rights of way over Croglin Fell, but plenty of shooting tracks, and the whole fell is designated access land. Apart from a couple of river fords and one rugged moorland slope, most of this route is easy underfoot. The start and finish is at Croglin, but it could easily be restructured to start and finish at nearby Newbiggin. Croglin is a very quiet little village, but in the 19th century it was terrorised by the vampire-like ‘Croglin Bat’.
Start at a crossroads in Croglin beside the Robin Hood pub. Follow a road past St John’s Church and continue until the tarmac ends. Turn left up a steep and stony track to reach a house. Turn right, then almost immediately left to follow another track uphill and through a gate. Follow a fence straight ahead and turn left at a junction to walk up through another gate.
A broad, walled track rises and falls like a gentle roller coaster as it crosses the hillside, while views stretch across the Vale of Eden to the Lake District, Solway Firth and southern Scotland. Suddenly, the track starts to descend steeply, and if you were to follow it downhill it would lead off-route to the village of Newbiggin.
When the steep and stony descent begins, however, turn right to climb through a gate. Follow a grassy path uphill beside a valley, eventually reaching a clear, stony track on a broad moorland gap over 360m (1180ft) near Cumrew Fell. There are ruined limekilns some distance away, as well as a shooting hut still further away.
Turn
