The Westweg. Kat Morgenstern

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Equipment

       Maps, navigation and GPS

       Trail etiquette

       Language

       Telecommunications

       Health and insurance

       Money matters

       Tourist information

       Using this guide

       PFORZHEIM TO HAUSACH

       Stage 1 Pforzheim to Dobel

       Stage 2 Dobel to Forbach

       Stage 3 Forbach to Unterstmatt

       Stage 4 Unterstmatt to Alexanderschanze

       Stage 5 Alexanderschanze to Hark

       Stage 6 Hark to Hausach

       HAUSACH TO TITISEE

       Stage 7 Hausach to Wilhelmshöhe

       Stage 8 Wilhelmshöhe to Kalte Herberge

       Stage 9 Kalte Herberge to Titisee

       WESTERN ROUTE: TITISEE TO BASEL

       Stage 10A Titisee to Notschrei

       Stage 11A Notschrei to Haldenhof

       Stage 12A Haldenhof to Kandern

       Stage 13A Kandern to Basel

       EASTERN ROUTE: TITISEE TO BASEL

       Stage 10B Titisee to Feldbergpass

       Stage 11B Feldbergpass to Weißenbachsattel

       Stage 12B Weißenbachsattel to Hasel

       Stage 13B Hasel to Degerfelden

       Stage 14B Degerfelden to Basel

       Appendix A Route summary table

       Appendix B Accommodation

       Appendix C Further information

       Appendix D German–English glossary

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      Wolfsgraben – one of many narrow gorges on the southern fringe of the Black Forest (Stage 13B)

      INTRODUCTION

      In the far southwestern corner of Germany lies a small mountain range of worldwide fame: the legendary Black Forest, noted for its fairytale scenery and traditions, its cuckoo clocks, and most of all for its scrumptious gateau.

      Yet the region has far more to offer than its well-worn clichés. The Black Forest, in the state of Baden-Württemberg, is one of Germany’s most beloved walking destinations. The soft-contoured, forest-clad hills, interspersed with pastures and isolated farms snuggled into the folds of the mountains, and picturesque villages sprinkled among the hills, make an ideal landscape in which to let both the mind and feet wander. The bald mountaintops – especially of the southern hills – offer a panorama of far-ranging vistas that not only encompass the soft ripples of the Black Forest, but on clear days can stretch right across the Alpine chain.

      Comprising a total area of about 6000km2 (about a third of the size of Wales), the region has an excellent infrastructure for walkers: about 23,000km of well maintained, waymarked trails, a very efficient public transport system and just enough conveniently placed benches, huts and farmhouse inns – often located in beautiful settings – offering not only physical sustenance, but also nourishment for the senses.

      Despite the fact that tourism development in the region started more than a hundred years ago, hospitality retains an authentic ‘home-grown’ feel. In part this is due to the early pioneering efforts of the Schwarzwaldverein. Founded in 1864 by a small group of innkeepers, the ‘Schwarzwaldverein’ (Black Forest Association) made it their task to promote and preserve the region’s cultural and natural heritage, and to promote its appreciation by making it more accessible to tourists. They set to work immediately. Their very first project was to establish a long-distance walking trail right across the entire length of the Black Forest that was to incorporate as many of the region’s highlights as possible.

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      Westweg Portal Schonach marks the beginning of Stage 8 at Wilhelmshöhe

      It was an ambitious project, spanning some 285km, from the ‘Gold City’ of Pforzheim in the north, to Basel in the extreme southwestern corner of the country, where Germany meets Switzerland and France, at the bend of the Rhine. The trail was to be clearly waymarked and well maintained, running high up and far away from towns and villages. Yet, it should provide enough shelter huts and hostels to make the experience safe and pleasurable for long-distance walkers who did not necessarily want to camp out.

      By 1900 the task was complete. The Westweg (or The Westway in English) was inaugurated as one of Germany’s first long-distance trails and it quickly became a hit. To this day its red diamond marker blazes the trail across the Black Forest and the route has lost none of its appeal.

      The Westweg was soon followed by two other routes, the Mittelweg and the Ostweg, which also start in Pforzheim and run south to the Rhine, but neither ever managed to rival the Westweg’s allure. It is the Westweg that reigns supreme for status and eminence among classic long-distance walks in Germany.

      While the Black Forest covers a relatively small area and its peaks never exceed 1500m in height, the route nevertheless has its challenges. Although the trails and terrain are easy, there are some rather steep sections. Some stretches of trail run on broad forestry roads, while others amble on narrow and uneven or rocky paths through the woods, although none require any special technical skill or ability beyond endurance. However, weatherproof equipment and sturdy boots are a ‘must’, and walking poles may prove a useful aid.

      The

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