The Westweg. Kat Morgenstern

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spring and early summer (April–June) or autumn (September/October) tend to be the best months of the year. In spring the temperatures are pleasant and flowering meadows and blossoming orchards make for delightful scenery. September and October are often drier than the summer months, which can be hot and humid with frequent threats of heavy thunderstorms. In autumn the colourful foliage and morning fog rising from the valleys creates a special ambience. ‘Inversions’, when warm air at higher altitudes traps colder, moist air (fog) below, are a particularly delightful experience on autumn walks – so long as one is walking above the clouds, that is.

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      Inversion weather: walking in the sunshine above the clouds

      Alas, Germans also tend to favour spring and autumn for their walking holidays, which means that trails can be quite busy and hotel rooms may be surprisingly difficult to find at short notice.

      The county of Baden-Württemberg is always the last to take its summer vacations and school is out until the middle of September. Thus, ‘shoulder season’ does not start until about 15 September. Note that 3 October is ‘Reunification Day’ – a national holiday and among the busiest times of the year. In spring, Easter, Whitsun and Pentecost are the busiest times for walkers.

      PUBLIC HOLIDAYS IN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG

      The number of public holidays differs between federal states. Baden-Württemberg observes the following public holidays:

      New Years Day: 1 January

      Three Kings: 6 January

      Good Friday: varies

      Easter Monday: varies

      Labour Day: 1 May

      Ascension Day: varies

      Whitsun: varies

      Corpus Christi: varies

      German Unification Day: 3 October

      All Saints: 1 November

      Christmas Day: 25 December

      Boxing Day: 26 December

      You can check specific dates of the moveable holidays at www.schulferien.org/Feiertage/Feiertage_Baden_Wuerttemberg.html

      The basic needs of walkers are pretty much the same anywhere and vary only according to the season. The smaller and lighter the pack, the happier a walker you will be.

      Here is a list of useful items that are recommended:

       fast-drying outdoor clothing (two sets of everything)

       sun hat

       warm hat

       scarf

       gloves

       rain jacket and waterproof trousers

       fleece jacket

       gaiters (not essential, but helpful in wet weather)

       micro-fleece magic towel

       good, sturdy, well broken-in hiking boots (waterproof!)

       walking poles

       light trainers

       refillable water bottle

       lunchbox

       energy bars

       sunscreen

       sunglasses

       first aid kit (plasters/blister plasters, disinfectant, bandage)

       personal medications you may need

       tick removal kit

       insect/tick repellent

       camera and charger

       maps and guidebook

       mobile phone and charger

       adapter plug

       whistle

       umbrella

       torch

       compass (optional)

      It may seem ridiculous to pack a warm hat, scarf and gloves in summer, but the weather can change unexpectedly and you’ll be glad to have them when you need them, which could be at any time.

      Maps

      The most useful map for the Westweg is the Leporello map, at a scale of 1:50.000. Leporello maps are a bit odd in that they tack each bit of the way below the previous section, showing just a little bit of what lies east or west of the route, and the whole thing unfolding like an accordion. The scale is a bit small, but it still shows a surprising amount of detail as well as providing additional information, such as a brief route description (in German), hotels en route, places to eat, local tourist offices, museums and bus stops. The map is laminated, which makes it waterproof and tear resistant. It is available from the Black Forest Tourist Board (see Appendix C for contact details).

      Kompass also publishes a map specifically for the Westweg. Like the Leporello map it uses a scale of 1:50.000, is laminated and provides some helpful additional information.

      A bit more expensive is the Schwarzwaldverein map set for the Black Forest, consisting of five maps (Freizeitkarte 501, 502, 503, 506, 508) and a planning brochure that gives some additional information about the route and accommodation options. The Schwarzwaldverein maps are not laminated and are thus more vulnerable to wear and tear. The scale is also 1:50.000.

      The Schwarzwaldverein also publishes maps at a scale of 1:35.000, but given the mostly excellent waymarking all along the route, such detailed maps are not really needed.

      The Kompass and Leporello maps are available on Amazon, and walking maps are also available at bookshops, tourist offices and often newsagents in the region. The Schwarzwaldverein Westweg map set is available from their online shop: www.swvstore.de

      In order to comply with the criteria stipulated to certify as a ‘quality hiking trail’, Westweg was rerouted in 2012. Maps printed prior to 2012 – and even some that were printed in 2013 – do not reflect these changes (which are mostly minor but could lead to confusion).

      Navigation and signage

      About a decade ago the Black Forest trail system underwent an extensive reform. Previously, markers of every shape, size and colour proliferated on every other tree. The trail system has since been condensed and simplified. Now there are basically three

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