and last nights
Pforzheim
With only 120,000 inhabitants, Pforzheim is a rather small and sleepy town which was almost completely destroyed during WWII. The new town that sprang up in its place has all but lost the historic character. However, there are a few interesting museums (most notable is the museum of jewellery – www.schmuckmuseum-pforzheim.de) and the World Heritage site of Maulbronn Abbey (www.kloster-maulbronn.de) is only 30min away by public transport, if you happen to find yourself there a day early and are looking for things to do.
Unfortunately there are not a lot of recommendable hotels. The Parkhotel, located near the confluence of the rivers Nagold and Enz, is the best choice in town. However, this hotel serves as the hospitality hub for convention guests, as it is located right across from the convention centre. For less expensive options look for small Landgasthaus (country inn) or Pension (B&B) in nearby villages. If you want to expand your trip to include a bit of culture, you might like to consider spending a couple of days exploring the beautiful historic spa town of Baden-Baden, which is only about 45min away by local train.
Basel
At the opposite end of the trek lies Basel, known as the ‘Tri-Region City’, which is to say that the urban area of Basel merges Swiss, French and German parts across the borders, due to their common, shared heritage. Basel is a buzzing university town as well as an ancient bishopric centre, although today it is best known for its pharmaceutical industry.
Although industry along the Rhine is quite intense, Basel manages to preserve a lot of charm, especially in the old town centre. It is well worth spending a little extra time here if your schedule permits, to soak up the lively atmosphere and visit some of the excellent museums and galleries.
There are many hotels, inns and B&Bs in and around Basel. The area around Badischer Bahnhof is not exactly pretty, nor centrally located, so it may be better to look for a place on the shores of the Rhine, in the old town (south of the river) or nearer the SBB train station, from where it is also easy to catch the bus to the airport. However, Swiss hotel prices can be steep. For more budget-friendly options look for a place in Lörrach, just across the border in Germany, only a short tram ride away from the town centre.
Food and drink
On most (but not all) sections, you will be able to find serviced huts or cafés/restaurants along the way. Hotels usually have a restaurant on the premises, but some types of guesthouses (Pension) do not. Some Schwarzwaldverein huts are only open on weekends and public holidays during the main hiking season. Restaurants often take their day off (Ruhetag) on Mondays, Tuesdays or Wednesdays. Thus, it is always a good idea to bring some supplies – squirrel away an extra sandwich and pack some fruit from the breakfast buffet, or ask for a lunchbox before heading out.
Those following a special diet, such as gluten-free, lactose-free, vegan or vegetarian, may find their options severely limited. Although most better restaurants offer at least a couple of vegetarian alternatives, it is best to check your options before you get there. Many restaurants will be happy to accommodate you if they know your requirements in advance, but don’t expect to find multiple choices for non-traditional diets on the regular menu. For an explanation of certain regional food items, see the glossary in Appendix D.
Water
The importance of plentiful hydration cannot be stressed enough. In general, the Black Forest is a water-rich area and there are many public water fountains. Unfortunately, they often display signs giving a warning that their water is not potable (‘Kein Trinkwasser’). What this usually means is that no-one actually comes to check the water on a regular basis to make sure it is safe for human consumption and thus, if you drink it, you do so at your own risk. To be on the safe side, fill your water bottle at your hotel or ask at a serviced hut, restaurant or farm.
Dangers and annoyances
As mountain ranges go, the Black Forest is quite ‘civilised’ and comparatively ‘easy’. Trails are well maintained and clearly marked and the nearest village is never more than a few kilometres away. Even so, don’t underestimate the mountains – however bucolic they may seem!
If the weather suddenly turns you may be lucky and find a shelter hut nearby, but if you get caught in a raging thunderstorm be sure to avoid seeking shelter in the observation towers (which were built at the top of many hills in the region about 100 years ago to provide views above the tree cover, and which are therefore rather vulnerable to lightening strikes!). On windy days falling branches can become dangerous projectiles, and after heavy rain mudslides and falling rocks can make hiking treacherous.
Wild animals generally are of little concern in the Black Forest. Of the bigger mammals only wild boar poses a potential danger to humans and dogs, but they tend to avoid contact if they can. They are most active at dawn and dusk. Their senses of smell and hearing are very acute but their vision is terrible, so you’re more likely to startle them when walking very quietly. The most dangerous time to encounter them is when they are out foraging with their young; this used to be in late spring/early summer, but nowadays they find such a surplus of food that they may breed and have offspring at any time of the year.
There have been no reported cases of rabies in Germany since 2006 and large animals are rarely seen. Far more dangerous are the tiniest critters, such as ticks, which can carry Lyme disease or TBE (tick-borne encephalitis). Ticks generally inhabit the undergrowth and tall grasses in lower elevations up to 700m, but they have also been found at 1500m (in the Czech Republic). Walking on broad forest tracks poses no risk, but when walking through tall grass it is best to tuck in the bottoms of your trousers. Tick repellent is only effective for about 4 hours; outdoor clothes can be treated with permethrin, which is highly effective, but also highly poisonous. Vigilance is the best protection – wear light-coloured clothes that make it easier to spot ticks and always perform a thorough tick check at the end of the day. If you have been bitten, seek medical assistance immediately, especially if you notice the classic symptom of Borreliosis infection – the bull’s eye rash.
Adders like to hide beneath blueberry and cowberry bushes
There are very few species of snakes in Germany, and those that do exist are endangered and rarely seen. One of them is the adder, which likes to soak up the sun – sometimes quite close to a trail. They don’t attack unless they feel threatened, and most will escape without you even knowing they were there. However, you or your dog or child might startle them by suddenly getting off the trail and scrambling around in the blueberries. Incidents are very rare, and there have been no confirmed fatalities in the last 10 years or so. Nevertheless, snakebites can be serious, even though the poison itself is not deadly. It affects the circulatory system, and people suffering from cardio-vascular problems, dogs, children and the elderly are most at risk. To avoid trouble, stay on the trails and keep dogs on a leash. Adder habitat (such as around Schliffkopf) is often designated as a nature reserve, where getting off the trail and berry picking is prohibited.
When to go
It is best to plan this walk for the main walking season, between April and November. Although the lower sections will likely be perfectly passable, even in March or November, hotels and restaurants along the route are often closed during the off-season.
Wolfsgraben in autumn (Stage 13B)
Since the climate is not as reliable as it used to
