One Night Wilderness: Portland. Becky Ohlsen
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Epic views like this one of Mount Hood, from Trip 42, Lookout Mountain and Oval Lake, are more accessible than you might think.
Introduction
It’s a busy world out there. Ask anyone you meet how they’re doing, and chances are that’s what they’ll say: “Busy!” Little old Portland is growing and changing; the pace of life here is not as mellow as it used to be. Despite being surrounded by natural wonders, most of us spend our days looking at screens, checking tweets and emails around the clock, and then when it’s finally time to relax, we’re too tired to do much more than sink into the couch and stare at another screen.
Which makes escaping into nature more important than ever. There’s a good reason “forest bathing” has become a trend, even if many of us roll our eyes at the term. Studies have shown that just 5 minutes in nature can transform your body and mind, making you more relaxed, more creative, smarter, and happier overall. It’s good for the brain, it’s good for the soul, and it’s even good for our social media profiles, in the long run. We know we need it.
But it can be hard to find the time to get away. That’s the beauty of this book: you don’t have to find much time at all. A single overnight excursion into the backcountry can have a huge impact, and these trips are all within a few hours’ drive of the city. Some are ideal for getting short blasts of nature, a quick booster shot. They involve hikes of just a mile or two, which means you could conceivably pack up on a Friday after work, hustle out to the trailhead, and be sipping hot cocoa and gazing at stars that same night. Imagine waking up on Saturday morning, peeking through the tent flap at mist on a lake, and sipping your morning coffee from a sleeping bag—with no laptop in sight.
And if a quick, one-night trip is good, a longer trip is even better. I say this from experience: nothing realigns your perspective quite like scrambling up the rocky side of a valley scooped out by glaciers and cresting the rim to see glittering Mount Adams, right there, almost close enough to touch. Add to that a picnic lunch beside an iridescent turquoise lake, a campsite that feels like some kind of hover pad floating in a cloud city, and a gentle stroll the next day through some of the most enchanting alpine valleys in the Pacific Northwest. Stress? What stress? You can find all this, by the way, on the Snowgrass Flat Loop hike.
You could do many of these trips as day hikes, especially if you get to the trailhead early in the day. But there’s something about spending the night—maybe because carrying everything you need makes you feel tough and self-reliant—that adds immeasurably to the experience. The Portland area is rich with writers who love the outdoors, so there are dozens of excellent guides to day hikes in the area. There are also several good volumes on extended backpacking trips, the kind you plan and prepare for months to pull off. I’ve been lucky enough to work on one of those guides too. But this book strikes the perfect balance between the two: a hand-picked range of accessible hikes, often kid-friendly and requiring minimal time commitment, that also gives you backpacker-friendly details like where to find the best campsites and water sources, what permits and regulations apply, and the best way to get to the trailhead.
It’s true we’re all busy—but there’s a good reason we live in this fantastic place, where the outdoors is so easily within reach. I hope you’ll take time to enjoy it, and if you’re so inclined, send me a note about your trip at [email protected].
Tips on Backpacking in the Pacific Northwest
Although this is more of a where-to than a how-to guide, it may be helpful, especially for those new to our area, to cover a few basic tips and ideas specific to backcountry travel in the Pacific Northwest.
GET THE RIGHT PERMITS Most national forests in our region require that a Northwest Forest Pass be displayed in the window of all vehicles parked within 0.25 mile of any major, developed trailhead. Isolated trailheads with minimal or no facilities are generally exempt. In 2019 daily permits were $5 and an annual pass was $30. The annual passes are available at ranger stations and at many local sporting goods stores, or they can be purchased online at discovernw.org (click on “Store”).
CHECK THE SNOWPACK The winter snowpack has a significant effect, not only on when a trail opens, but also on wildflower blooming times, peak stream flows, and how long seasonal water sources will be available. It’s a good idea to check the snowpack on or about April 1 (the usual seasonal maximum), and make a note of how it compares to normal. This information is available online at nrcs.usda.gov (click on “State Websites” and navigate to Oregon or Washington). If the snowpack is significantly above or below average, adjust the trip’s seasonal recommendations accordingly.
WATCH OUT FOR LOGGING TRUCKS When driving on forest roads in our area, keep an eye out for logging trucks, especially on weekdays. These scary behemoths often barrel along with little regard for those annoying speed bumps known as passenger cars.
CHECK TRAIL CONDITIONS The Northwest’s frequently severe winter storms create annual problems for trail crews. Occasionally trails are washed out for years, but at a minimum, early-season hikers should expect to crawl over deadfall and search for routes around slides and flooded riverside trails. Depending on current funding and the trail’s popularity, maintenance may not be completed until several weeks after a trail is snow-free and officially open. Unfortunately, this means that trail maintenance is often done well after the optimal time to visit. On the positive side, trails are usually less crowded before the maintenance has been completed.
LEAF IT, DON’T LEAVE IT For environmentally conscious backpackers, one good solution to the old problem of how to dispose of toilet paper is to find a natural alternative. Two excellent options are the large, soft leaves of thimbleberry at lower elevations, and the light-green lichen that hangs from trees at higher elevations. They’re not exactly Charmin soft, but they get the job done.
WARN HUNTERS YOU’RE NOT A DEER General deer-hunting season in Oregon and Washington runs from late September to early November. For safety, anyone planning to travel on national or state forest land during these periods (particularly those doing any cross-country travel) should carry and wear a bright red or orange cap, vest, pack, or other conspicuous article of clothing. Hunting is generally not allowed in state or national parks (apart from some very limited and specific exceptions for waterfowl), so this precaution does not apply to those areas.
YOU’RE NOT AN ELK, EITHER Along the same lines as the above, elk-hunting season is generally held in late October or early November. The exact season varies in different parts of each state.
BE CAREFUL WITH FUNGI Mushrooms are a Northwest backcountry delicacy. Although our damp climate makes it possible to find mushrooms in any season, late August–November is usually best. Where and when the mushrooms can be found varies with elevation, precipitation, and other factors. In some places, you’re not allowed to take anything out of the forest without a permit; if you do find any fungi, be sure it’s OK to collect them for personal use. Also make absolutely sure that you know your fungi. There are several poisonous species of mushrooms in our forests, and every year people become ill or even die when they make a mistake in identification.
BRING THE BEATER Sadly, car break-ins and vandalism are regular