13.
From here it will take most hikers little more than two hours to reach either Cable or Deertrap mountains. Stave Spring, a modest but reliable source of water, dampens the draw only 0.4 mile up the trail to the south.
Trip 15
East Mesa Trail to Observation Point Trail
Distance: 3.2 miles, one way, to Observation Point Trail
Low/High elevations: 6500’/6815’
Suited for: Dayhike or backpack
Difficulty: Easy
Best season: May through October
Maps/Trailhead: 4,3/12
Hazards: No water; trail should be avoided if thunderstorms threaten.
Introduction: Beginning at a remote trailhead on the eastern fringes of the Park, the seldom-used East Mesa Trail follows a broad promontory that juts westward from the rolling shoulders of the Markagunt Plateau toward the rim of Zion Canyon.
Excepting the curious, roughly westward alignment of Echo and Orderville canyons, between which the East Mesa is wedged, all the canyons viewed from this trail follow the jointed grain of the landscape in a north-northwest direction. Woodlands of Gambel oak, juniper, pinyon, and ponderosa pine are thickly massed atop the mesa, and offer ample shelter for the many potential campsites passed along the way. Most hikers however, use this trail for the quick and easy access it provides to the overlook at Observation Point (see Trip 10).
Description: The East Mesa Trail, actually the faded remains of a long-closed road, begins at a hiker’s gate (0.0; 6520) allowing passage through a fenceline along the Park’s eastern boundary. Designed to keep grazing cattle out of the Park, fences have been erected along much of the perimeter of Zion. Nevertheless, the presence of cattle and sheep beyond Park boundaries at the headwaters of La Verkin Creek and North Fork Virgin River have fouled those backcountry water sources, necessitating purification.
Beginning in a woodland of pinyon and juniper, we find taller ponderosa pines mixing into the forest as we progress westward, ascending gently along the plateau. Views enroute stretch far to the north and northwest, where the two-tiered surface of the Markagunt Plateau becomes apparent. Much of the extensive southern tier is exposed to our gaze. This is the plateau—the Kolob Terrace—in which North Fork Virgin River has cut Zion Canyon. The upper tier, considerably higher in elevation and capped by geologically recent lava flows, is bounded by the Pink Cliffs of the Claron Formation, relatively soft Eocene lakebed sediments that compose the cliffs of Cedar Breaks National Monument and those of Bryce Canyon National Park.
Enroute, we can briefly detour north from the trail at points 1.25 and 2.2 miles from the trailhead, to the rim, where exceptional views unfold, overlooking Orderville and Mystery canyons, drainages that are densely forested with pine, white fir, and Douglas-fir, the trend of their courses controlled by jointing in the Navajo Sandstone.
Eventually the trail turns southwest, following the crest of the mesa. Then, just above the south arm of Mystery Canyon, it gently ascends to the summit of our hike (2.3; 6815). Shortly we arc westward over the crunchy Carmel limestone, then begin a steady descent south into a pinyon, juniper, and oak woodland. Approaching the foot of the descent, we circumnavigate the head of a plunging Zion Canyon tributary, and conclude the hike on a shadier slope among ponderosa pines, Douglas-firs, and thickets of Gambel oak, greenleaf manzanita, and Utah serviceberry.
At the junction (0.9; 6500) we have the choice of either backtracking to the trailhead, turning right to Observation Point (0.3 mile), or going left and descending to Weeping Rock trailhead (see Trip 10).
Trip 16
The Narrows: Chamberlain’s Ranch to Temple of Sinawava
Distance: 17.5 miles, shuttle trip
Low/High elevations: 4418’/5830’
Suited for: Backpack
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best season: Clear days in summer
Maps/Trailheads: 5,6,3/13,8
Hazards: Wading a river through a deep and narrow slickrock canyon (see Introduction for details).
Introduction: The famous Narrows of Zion Canyon is one of the classic canyon hiking trips on the Colorado Plateau. This hike is perhaps the most exciting and challenging trip in all of Utah’s national parks. Throughout most of the canyon’s 17-mile length, much of your time will be spent wading through knee-deep waters. Depending on water levels, some swimming may be required through deeper holes.
The optimum season for the trip is from early to mid-summer. During that time, the river has receded from snowmelt runoff and the probability of thunderstorms is usually low. Temperatures are typically hot by mid-June, and a summer hike through the shady depths of the canyon is refreshing and enjoyable. From about mid-July through mid-September, Utah experiences its monsoon season, when thunderstorms can occur frequently, sometimes daily. These heavy rains increase the probability of rising water levels and flash flooding. The canyon can be hiked during this season, but extreme caution is advised.
Autumn brings cooler weather and shorter days, with cold water increasing the chances of hypothermia. At that time of year, hikers must proceed steadily through the canyon, beginning at dawn in order to complete the hike before dark.
Backcountry permits must be obtained for overnight hikes and dayhikes through the length of the canyon. Overnight hikers must begin at Chamberlain’s Ranch, hiking downstream. Permits are not required for dayhikes in part of the canyon. Permits will be issued no more than 24 hours in advance. Hikers are limited to no more than one night’s stay in the canyon. Conditions can change rapidly, and there are risks that must be considered.
General rules for safety and common sense for canyon hiking are especially important for a backpack in The Narrows, considering the river has such a large watershed. As one hikes through the canyon, observe the high-water mark, usually a dark line on the canyon walls, below which the sandstone is polished smooth and shiny.
Always be aware of possible escape routes to higher ground. Changes in the water, from clear to turbid, an increase in the current and in water level, and in the worst case, the roar of rushing waters upstream, are indicators of a flash flood. Seek high ground immediately; you cannot outrun floodwaters. The river should recede within 24 to 48 hours after heavy rains have stopped.
Be sure to wear good, rubber-soled boots that provide ankle support and remain lightweight when wet, and a sturdy walking stick to aid balance and probe deep holes. Some hikers use two ski poles instead of a walking stick. When hiking in cold temperatures, consider wearing polypropylene thermal long underwear, since it will keep you warm even when wet. Shorts are best for wading the river, since bare legs offer less friction. All hikers should carry a pack with extra food and clothing in waterproof containers or plastic bags. Backpackers should likewise protect their additional gear, which should include shoes for wear around camp.
Avoid drinking river water if possible, but if you must, purify it, as the river drains the summer range of cattle and sheep. Instead, draw your water from any of the numerous springs enroute, which still should be purified. Some hikers may prefer to carry all their water.
Backpackers
