Lake very difficult or impossible, you could reverse this route. You would bypass the main part of Trout Lake, and a north or west wind would be no problem until you reached Cummings Lake and began your journey back to Trout Lake.
Day 2 (13 miles): Little Trout Lake, p. 376 rods, Little Indian Sioux River, p. 32 rods, river, p. 32 rods, river, p. 12 rods, river, rapids, river, rapids, river, p. 70 rods, river, p. 40 rods, river, p. 34 rods, river, p. 35 rods, river, p. 120 rods, Otter Lake. You will find Day 2 to be a sharp contrast to the prior day of paddling on large lakes. A day with nine portages is exhausting by any measure, and travel on the meandering Little Indian Sioux River is deceivingly slow. This is the price you must pay for wilderness solitude. After departing from Little Trout Lake, you should enjoy the bountiful wildlife and absence of other paddlers along the river’s course. One author once witnessed six deer and a cow moose leisurely drinking from the river’s swampy bank. Who knows how many other creatures watched us paddle silently through this winding wilderness.
The first long portage starts at a sandy beach, which may be obscured by aquatic vegetation in the shallow water in front of the landing. The route has a surprisingly good, virtually level path most of the way to the river, with only a few wet spots along the trail. The final 15 rods, however, are across a spongy bog at the edge of the river, where it may be impossible to avoid wet feet.
The remaining eight portages are sometimes hard to find and are brushy. Most are dry, however, with fairly good paths, in spite of the infrequent use they receive. Although you are traveling upstream, most of the portages are quite level. Only the third portage (32 rods) has much elevation change; there’s a rather steep climb about halfway across. It is also one of the more scenic portages, with a good view across the rapids to a pine-covered ridge.
In addition to the seven portages along the river, you will also encounter two small rapids around which there are no portage trails—one just beyond the 12-rod portage and the other just before the 70-rod trail. In that long, winding stretch of river between those two portages, one author encountered 27 beaver dams during one trip. Most of the dams could be paddled over without any difficulty, but a few required lift-overs. The 70-rod portage bypasses a shallow part of the river that is plagued with windfalls. The path along the south bank of the river is hard to see. Watch for tree blazes and rock cairns that mark the way.
If the only campsite on Otter Lake is occupied, you’ll have to continue on to Cummings Lake. There are several nice sites from which to choose, including a large site on a beautiful, pine-covered rocky point just a half mile east of the 5-rod portage. Claim the first vacant site you see. Cummings Lake attracts visitors from the Crab Lake entry point. The farther east and south you paddle, the more likely it is that you’ll find the campsites occupied.
Day 3 (11 miles): Otter Lake, p. 5 rods, Cummings Lake, p. 35 rods, Korb River, Korb Lake, Korb River, p. 1-10 rods, river, Little Crab Lake, Lunetta Creek, Lunetta Lake, p. 60 rods, Lunetta Creek, p. 48 rods, creek, Schlamn Lake. After the previous rugged day, this day should be easy, so enjoy it. Unlike the previous nine portages, all of these trails are well used and well maintained. None is difficult, although the 35-rod path may be wet at the southeast end, due to a beaver dam that floods the trail. The length of the short portage along the Korb River depends on the water level, ranging from a mere lift-over in high water to a 10-rod carry in very low water.
Tamarack and spruce bogs border the Korb River. In early summer, you may see many pitcher plants growing along the river’s bank. Later in the season, water lilies may occupy the entire surface of the stream. Beaver lodges are in abundance throughout both sections of the river. So don’t be surprised if occasional dams pop up along the course of the river.
The final portage (48 rods) starts out at a grassy, wet landing and follows a brushy trail for the first 20 rods. It then joins the path of an old logging road for the final 28 rods back to the shore of the creek. Just before the end of the portage, use caution crossing the creek on rocks and boulders. There is no bridge across the creek.
Day 4 (10 miles): Schlamn Lake, p. 210 rods, Glenmore Lake, p. 195 rods, Western Lake, p. 80 rods, Buck Lake, p. 250 rods, Chad Lake, p. 260 rods, Pine Creek, Pine Lake. With a total of 995 rods of portages, this is another tough day, especially if you cannot carry all of your gear in just one trip. If you take two trips, you will be walking more than 9 miles this day. The first trail (210 rods) gains about 75 feet in the first 80 rods, and then follows a rather scenic ridge that is covered by a mature forest of large aspens, Norway pines, and spruce. There is a panoramic view across a swamp just before the steep descent to Glenmore Lake. Watch for a huge, old white pine near the center of the next long portage (195 rods), which has a wet, boggy spot nearby. The 250-rod trail is plagued with rocks and roots, but it has a lovely stand of Norway pines about halfway across. The final (and longest) portage of the day starts out with a short, but steep incline, and is mostly uphill for the first 140 rods. Take care on the sloping rocks, since they can be slippery, especially when wet. At the end, the trail drops rather steeply down to Pine Creek. You’ll find a scenic overlook at the summit of a high rock slope adjacent to the portage trail. A short climb leads to a panoramic view across the valley of Pine Creek. In mid-July, you might also find blueberries on the rocky slope.
Pine Lake has ten campsites along its 12 miles of shoreline. The best are in the northwest part of the lake; the most private are in the southeast end. The northern and western edges of the lake received some damage from the blow down. A couple of small sand beaches along the east shoreline may be enticing to swimmers.
Day 5 (8 miles): Pine Lake, p. 260 rods, Trout Lake, p. 40 rods, Vermilion Lake. (See comments for Day 3, Route #1-1.)
Entry Point
4 Crab Lake
DAILY QUOTA: 4 CLOSEST RANGER STATION: Kawishiwi Ranger Station
LOCATION Crab Lake is accessible from Burntside Lake, a very popular and populated lake about 4 miles northwest of Ely. Several public boat landings are situated around Burntside Lake. The most convenient to Ely, and with the best access is located along the south shore near the center of the lake. From its junction with Highway 1-169, 4.75 miles west of the International Wolf Center in Ely, drive north on CR 88 for 2.3 miles to CR 404 (the Van Vac Road). Turn left and drive 1.2 miles west on this good, scenic, paved road to a DNR public access. The boat landing is 0.2 mile north (right) of the Van Vac Road. A parking lot adjacent to the boat landing is large enough to accommodate as many as 15 vehicles.
If there is a strong west wind, you might prefer starting your trip at a different public landing, located at the southwest end of Burntside Lake. From Highway 1-169, 8.75 miles west of Ely, drive north on CR 404 (Wolf Lake Road) for 2.2 miles. The road leads to an inconspicuous one-lane road on the right, which, in turn, leads 0.2 mile north to the shore of Burntside Lake. The turnoff to this rough and winding gravel road may not be marked, but it is shared by private property identified with Fire Number 3319. The landing has very little space for parking and even less room to turn around. The more convenient and spacious public landing off the Van Vac Road is a much better choice if wind is not a problem.
LISTENING POINT
Sigurd Olson, naturalist and writer, built a log cabin in the 1950s on the eastern shore of Burntside Lake. Called Listening Point, the one room structure is listed on National Register of Historic Places. Olson actively worked to protect the environment and worked with groups like the Izaak Walton League, the National Parks Association, and the Wilderness Society. The quotation that follows describes one reason to paddle in the BWCA.
I named this place Listening Point because only when one
comes to listen, only when one is aware and still, can things be
seen
