Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. Mike White
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Big Fern Spring: Beyond Hospital Rock, the Generals Highway begins a steep and winding climb up the south wall of the Giant Forest Plateau toward the Giant Forest. Built in the 1920s and 1930s, this highway is something of an engineering marvel. On the way to Big Fern Spring, the vegetation transitions from the drought-tolerant vegetation of the foothills zone to broadleaf evergreens, such as live oaks and laurels, with an occasional incense cedar serving as a harbinger of the coniferous forest above. The spring is named for the giant chain fern, largest of the native Californian ferns.
Amphitheater Point: The broad turnout here offers a wide-ranging panorama encompassing the full breadth of Sierra Nevada life zones. The precipitous slopes below are cloaked with the classic oak forest and chaparral of the foothills zone. Directly above lies the distinctive exfoliated granite dome of Moro Rock, bordered by the coniferous forest carpeting the Giant Forest Plateau. In the distance are some of the airy summits of the Great Western Divide, offering the first images of the mighty High Sierra.
Deer Ridge: From Amphitheater Point to Deer Ridge, the Generals Highway offers glimpses of two distinct rock types—the classic salt-and-pepper-colored granites typically associated with the Sierra and much older metamorphic rocks. Most of the metamorphic rocks are red, but patches of white rocks can be seen scattered across the terrain as well. The white cliffs seen from the vicinity of Deer Ridge are usually made of marble. Since marble is water-soluble over the course of geologic time, natural caverns often form in this rock, with Crystal Cave being the most famous of these caverns in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.
Eleven Range Point: This point is named for its expansive vista, encompassing up to eleven mountain ridges, depending upon the air quality. Unfortunately, the ubiquitous haze coating the atmosphere above the San Joaquin Valley usually clouds the view. Air pollution from Southern California and the Central Valley poses the most significant risk to humans and the natural environment in the parks. Oftentimes, Sequoia and Kings Canyon suffer some of the worst air quality in the national park system.
Giant Forest: The steep and winding climb eventually leads to the Giant Forest, where a roadside sign heralds your arrival. Gone are the oaks and laurels of the upper foothills zone, replaced by varieties of tall, slender, and straight-trunked trees with short branches, which can tolerate the snowy winters common to the mid-elevation forests. The Giant Forest is the home of the world’s largest living organism, the giant sequoia. Common conifer associates of the Big Trees include incense cedars, sugar pines, and white firs. Deciduous dogwoods are also prevalent, offering beautiful accents of showy white flowers in spring and colorful foliage in autumn.
Commissary Curve: Crystal Cave Road branches away from the Generals Highway at a sharp bend named for the supply station that served men of the US Cavalry, who protected the park in the early 1900s before the creation of the NPS. Crystal Cave Road follows the upper course of the old Colony Mill Road for 6.4 miles to a parking lot for Sequoia’s only visitor-accessible cave tour. Tickets for the daily tours may be acquired at either the Foothills or Lodgepole Visitor Centers. The road to the cave is open only from mid-May to late October and is not recommended for vehicles longer than 22 feet.
The Four Guardsmen: Here the highway divides briefly to pass among four stately giant sequoias, which are each estimated to be more than 1,000 years old.
Giant Forest Village: The several-mile ascent from Middle Fork Kaweah River culminates in your arrival at Giant Forest Village, the center of human activity on the plateau. To the left is a short stretch of road to the visitor parking lot, a bus stop for the Moro Rock-Crescent Meadow shuttle, and access to the Beetle Rock Education Center. The center, operated by the Sequoia Natural History Association, is a hub for naturalist activities, NPS-sponsored meetings, outreach events, and the Family Nature Center.
On the right is the Moro Rock-Crescent Meadow Road, which leads to the namesake features plus several trailheads (see Trips 26–32). Although visitors may drive a private vehicle to either Moro Rock or Crescent Meadow, traffic jams on the narrow roads and crammed parking lots are persistent problems. Therefore, riding the free shuttle bus to these destinations is highly recommended.
Proceeding ahead on the Generals Highway, the Giant Forest Museum is the structure on the right, housed in the renovated old market building, originally designed by renowned architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood. The museum has interpretive exhibits and informational displays about the human and natural history of the Giant Forest. The museum also serves as a hub for several connecting trails of varying lengths leading into the heart of the forest (see Trips 33–39).
Round Meadow: The half-mile-long Big Trees Trail encircles Round Meadow, offering a short and leisurely hike past some prime examples of mature sequoias on a circuit around a flower-covered meadow. Interpretive signs and benches along the way offer an opportunity for a leisurely stroll. A small lot allows handicapped parking for the wheelchair-accessible trail. Everyone else must begin at the museum (see Trip 35).
Pinewood Picnic Area: As part of the Giant Forest’s restoration, this former employee-housing site was converted to a picnic area in 2000. The area is complete with picnic tables, grills, and restrooms. Group and handicapped-accessible sites are also available.
General Sherman: Handicapped parking and a shuttle stop occupy the former parking area for access to the General Sherman Tree, at more than 52,000 cubic feet, the world’s largest living organism. Giant sequoias grow only in areas with very specific soil, water, and climate conditions, and the Sherman Tree is located near the northern boundary of the Giant Forest. To visit the tree, either ride the free shuttle bus system, or continue driving on the Generals Highway to the Wolverton junction and then follow signs to the General Sherman Tree parking lot.