Kauai Trails. Kathy Morey

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      a: like “ah” in “aha.”

      e: like “ay” in “day.”

      i: like “ee” as in “whee!”

      o: like “o” in “go.”

      u: like “oo” in “food” (or “u” in “rude”).

      Notice that that means that when you see two or more of the same letter in a row, you pronounce each of them separately:

      “Kapaa” is Ka-pa-a.

      “Kokee” is Ko-ke-e.

      “Iiwi” is I-i-wi.

      “Hoolulu” is Ho-o-lu-lu.

      “Puu” is Pu-u.

      That seems too simple, and it is. If you tried to pronounce every vowel, speaking Hawaiian would turn into a nightmare. You wouldn’t live long enough to pronounce some words. Fortunately, several pairs of vowels often—but not always—form merged sounds.

      Vowel Pairs Whose Sounds Merge

      Like every other language, Hawaiian has vowel pairs whose sounds naturally “smooth” into each other. They’re similar to Italian or English diphthongs. The degree to which the two sounds are merged in Hawaiian is officially less than occurs in English, but most Hawaiian people I’ve talked with on Kauai merge them fully. Vowel-pair pronunciation is approximately:

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      Syllables

      Every Hawaiian syllable ends in a vowel sound. A Hawaiian syllable never contains more than one consonant. That means every consonant goes with the vowel that follows it. Every vowel not preceded by a consonant stands alone when you break a written word into syllables (you may smooth some of them together when you speak). For example:

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      Accent

      In general, the accent falls on the next-to-last syllable for words with three or more syllables and on the first syllable for words of two syllables. For words of more than three syllables, you put a little stress on every other syllable preceding the accented one. Don’t worry about this; it seems to come naturally.

      There are common-usage exceptions, such as makai (ma-KAI, with the accent on the last syllable). When you see exceptions such as those, chances are that what has happened is that European usage has fully merged two sounds into one. Proper Hawaiian pronunciation of makai would be closer to “ma-KAH-i,” a three-syllable word with the last two syllables almost merging.

      Hint for Longer Words: Repetition and Rhythm

      Have you noticed the tendency in long Hawaiian words for groups of letters to repeat? That kind of repetition is fairly common. When you see a long Hawaiian word, don’t panic. Identify its repeating letter groups, figure out how to pronounce them individually, then put the whole word together. Chances are you’ll come pretty close to getting it correct.

      For example, Waialeale throws a lot of people. But look at the repeating letter group ale (ah-lay). See the word as “Wai/ale/ale.” So, two “a-le”s prefixed with a wai (the ai merges here)—that makes “wai/a-le/a-le.” Once you’ve identified the repeating groups, the rhythm of the word comes naturally. Try this approach for longer words, including the state fish: humuhumunukunukuapuaa: two “hu-mu”s, two “nu-ku”s, and an “a-pu-a-a.” Now try it: “hu-mu/hu-mu/nu-ku/nu-ku/a-pu-a-a.” …Very good!

      Makai and mauka

      In Hawaii, local people often give directions or describe the location of a place as makai (merge the ai), which means “toward the sea,” or mauka (merge the au), which means “toward the mountains; inland.” I had a terrible time remembering which was which until I came up with this mnemonic:

      Go makai

      Where sea meets sky,

      and Tom Winnett came up with:

      Mauka is toward the MAUntains.

      However, I use the terms left, right, north, south, east, and west. I don’t often use mauka and makai in this book, although I find myself increasingly thinking in those terms!

      Do your best, with respect

      Approach the language with respect, and give it your best shot. Then be prepared to hear local people pronounce it differently. Learn from them. Maybe it’s part of our jobs as visitors to inadvertently provide a little comic relief for those living and working here as opposed to just vacationing here.

      Instant Hawaiian (see Bibliography) is a useful booklet that’s a lot less frivolous than its title implies. It begins, “So you’d like to learn to speak Hawaiian—you should live so long!” I felt I’d come to the right place. Look for it when you get to Kauai.

      Geology and History, Natural and Human

      First, the earth

      According to the theory of plate tectonics, the earth consists of:

      A rigid, rocky outer shell, the lithosphere (“rocky zone”)

      Beneath the lithosphere, a hot, semifluid layer, the asthenosphere (“weak zone”)

      A core that doesn’t play a part in this oversimplified discussion.

      The lithosphere is broken into plates that move with respect to each other. Hot, fluid material, possibly from the asthenosphere or melted by contact with the asthenosphere, penetrates up through the lithosphere at three kinds of places:

      Mid-oceanic ridges, where plates spread apart

      Subduction zones, where plates collide and one dives under the other (subducts)

      Hot spots, where a plume of molten material appears in the middle of a plate.

      Next, the land

      It’s believed that the Hawaiian Islands exist where the Pacific Plate, on which they ride, is moving northwest across a hot

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