this or that. But except for delicious malasadas (doughnut holes) or another pick-me-up from the Punaluu Bake Shop Papakolea (Green Sand) Beach
Getting Around
The Hawaiian directions of makai (toward the ocean) and mauka (toward the mountains) come in handy when looking for unfamiliar sites, especially since numbered address signs may be invisible or nonexistent. They’re used with addresses below as needed.
By Taxi and Rideshare Ride-sharing Uber and Lyft came to the island in 2017, although at press time coverage was spotty outside of Kailua-Kona and Hilo. Kona airport pickups are allowed at the median between Terminal 1 and 2; in Hilo, find your ride-share curbside, near the helicopter tours. Licensed taxis with professional, knowledgeable drivers are readily available at both Kona and Hilo airports, although renting a car (see below) is a more likely option. Rates set by the county start at $3, plus $3.20 each additional mile—about $25 to $30 from the Kona airport to Kailua-Kona and $50 to $60 to the Waikoloa Beach Resort. On the Kona side, call Kona Taxicab (www.konataxicab.com;
By Car You’ll want a rental car on the Big Island; not having one will really limit you. All major car-rental agencies have airport pickups in Kona and Hilo; some even offer cars at Kohala and Kona resorts. For tips on insurance and driving rules, see “Getting Around Hawaii” (p. 601).
The Big Island has more than 480 miles of paved road. The highway that circles the island is called the Hawaii Belt Road. From North Kona to South Kohala and Waimea, you have two driving choices: the scenic “upper” road, Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190), or the speedier “lower” road, Queen Kaahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19). South of Kailua-Kona, the Hawaii Belt Road continues on Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) all the way to downtown Hilo, where it becomes Highway 19 again and follows the Hamakua Coast before heading up to Waimea.
North Kohala also has upper and lower highways. In Kawaihae, you can follow Kawaihae Road (Hwy. 19) uphill to the left turn onto the often-misty Kohala Mountain Road (Hwy. 250), which eventually drops down into Hawi. The Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270) hugs the coast from Kawaihae to pavement’s end at the Pololu Valley Lookout.
Note: Saddle Road (Hwy. 200) snakes between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa en route from Hilo to Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190). Despite improvements to its pavement and narrow shoulders, it’s frequented by large military vehicles and plagued by bad weather; most rental-car agencies forbid you from driving on it. I’ve found the 29 miles from Hilo to the Mauna Kea Access Road to be very easy to navigate in good conditions, but be careful not to speed, especially close to Hilo.
By Bus & Shuttle SpeediShuttle (www.speedishuttle.com;
The islandwide bus system, the Hele-On Bus (www.heleonbus.org;
Travelers staying in Kailua-Kona and the Keauhou Resort can hop on the open-air, 44-seat Keauhou Resort Trolley operated by Roberts Hawaii (
The Waikoloa Beach Resort trolley runs from 10am to 10pm daily from Hilton Waikoloa Village and the Waikoloa Beach Marriott to the Kings’ Shops and Queens’ MarketPlace; it costs $2 adults, $1 ages 5 to 12 (younger free). Guests at Kings’ Land by Hilton Grand Vacations can catch a free shuttle to Hilton Waikoloa Village and pick up the trolley from there. Hilton Waikoloa Village also runs golf shuttles for guests.
By Bike Due to elevation changes, narrow shoulders (with the notable exception of the Queen Kaahumanu Highway between Kailua-Kona and Kawaihae), and high traffic speeds, point-to-point bike travel without a tour guide isn’t recommended. However, several areas are ideal for recreational cycling and sightseeing. See “Biking” under “Other Outdoor Activities” for rental shops and routes.
By Motorcycle & Scooter The sunny Kohala and Kona coasts are ideal for tooling around on a motorcycle, while those sticking to one resort or Kailua-Kona can easily get around by scooter. Big Island Mopeds (www.konamopedrentals.com;
Air Quality Although air quality has been excellent since Kilauea’s 35-year eruption
