Trekking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon
Чтение книги онлайн.
Читать онлайн книгу Trekking in Mallorca - Paddy Dillon страница 8
Alternative routes
Many maps have been produced showing the course of the GR221 over the years, regardless of whether or not some stretches have been negotiated with landowners, or cleared of undergrowth to allow access. Every so often, one of the suggested alternatives becomes formally adopted, signposted and waymarked. At present, there are enough of these routes to offer three additional starting points, and three additional finishing points. Full details of alternative routes that are already available are given in this guidebook.
Instead of starting at Port d’Andratx and passing through Sant Elm, where the first one-and-a-half days of the route aren’t yet waymarked, your route could be started in the village of s’Arracó, where the route is waymarked all the way to Coll de sa Gramola. Another alternative starting point is the village of es Capdellà, where the route is fully signposted and waymarked all the way through the Galatzó estate to Estellencs. Yet another alternative starting point is the small town of Calvià, where the route is fully signposted as the GR221 as far as Puigpunyent, and at least waymarked to Coll d’Estellencs. The descent to Estellencs, despite being regarded as a Camino Real, or right of way, has not yet been formally adopted, and is admittedly a sorry mess by the time it reaches Estellencs.
Little houses are passed on the way to Coll de sa Gramola (Alternative start A)
Instead of finishing at Pollença, three other finishing points could be considered. One option, while not specifically marked as the GR221, is at least fully signposted all the way from the outskirts of Sóller to Cala Tuent. The problem with this route is getting away at the end, but ultimately it is planned that the route will continue to Lluc. Another option for finishing involves leaving the main route at Tossals Verds, and walking either to Alaró for an easy exit, or over Puig d’Alaró to finish in the village of Orient. Yet another finishing point can be considered by switching from the GR221 to the GR222, from Lluc to Caimari. In due course, the GR222 will be signposted and waymarked across the plains of es Pla to the distant Serra de Llevant.
Extra mountains
Hardy enthusiasts could walk the whole of the GR221 and include several mountain peaks along the way. Many prominent peaks lie close to the route, but climbing some of them involves hands-on scrambling. Peaks worth considering include Mola de s’Esclop, Puig de Galatzó, Mola de Son Ferrandell, Puig des Teix, Puig de l’Ofre, Puig des Tossals Verds, Puig de Massanella and Tomir.
Guided walking holidays
Some activity holiday companies claim to offer guided walks along the GR221. Check their details carefully as most of them do not actually trek along the entire route, but offer only a series of short walks along certain ‘highlight’ sections. However, there are some companies who offer long-distance guided walks through the Serra de Tramuntana that either follow or run roughly parallel to the GR221.
Maps of the GR221
At the time of writing the GR221 is neither signposted nor waymarked in its early stages, but the latter parts are usually very well marked. This guidebook contains extracts from the excellent Editorial Alpina 1:25,000 scale maps of the Serra de Tramuntana. These are far and away the best maps for trekking along the GR221 and all its alternatives. To enjoy full coverage of the mountains and to appreciate where the GR221 is located in a wider context, obtain the Alpina 25 Serra de Tramuntana map pack. This includes four extensive, detailed maps of the mountains, printed back to back so that they are light and compact, on durable waterproof material, packed into a handy card folder, with a five-language key. For details see www.editorialalpina.com.
The Instituto Geográfico Nacional (IGN) publishes maps of Mallorca at scales of 1:50,000 and 1:25,000. These are part of the Mapa Topográfico Nacional (MTN) series. Be sure to check the style and quality of these maps if tempted to make a purchase, as they don’t show the course of the GR221, nor do they show many of the paths and tracks that form the route. For details see www.cnig.es.
Maps can be ordered in advance from British suppliers such as Stanfords (12–14 Long Acre, London WC2E 9BR, tel 020 7836 1321, www.stanfords.co.uk); The Map Shop (15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146, www.themapshop.co.uk); or Cordee (tel 01455 611185, www.cordee.co.uk).
Path conditions
For the most part the GR221 is made up of clear paths and tracks, sometimes cut through solid rock and often built laboriously by hand. Some of the paths were engineered as zigzagging mule tracks from village to village, and these are often quite plain and obvious to follow. Others were made to exploit woodlands for charcoal, so they tend to fan out among dense woodlands, with many spurs reaching dead-ends. On these tracks it is necessary to pay careful attention to maps and route descriptions, confirming your location at every junction before making the next move. Even when the signposting and waymarking is good, remember that markers can go missing.
Conditions underfoot range from bare rock to well-paved stretches. There are also some uncomfortably stony sections, or paths that run through deeply eroded gullies. Leaf-mould can obscure uneven surfaces, so tread carefully. Some mountainsides are covered in huge grassy tussocks of càrritx. Walkers quickly learn to high-step through càrritx, because stepping onto the tough fronds can cause the other foot to be caught as it is swung forward!
The Camí des Correu runs through dense holm oak woodland (Stage 4)
Kit check
Think carefully about the gear you plan to carry and keep your pack light. Ground conditions are often hard and stony, but there are plenty of easier tracks and roads. Wear boots or shoes according to your personal preference over such terrain. Bear in mind that hot feet might be more of a problem than wet feet, so think carefully when choosing footwear and socks.
Clothing should be lightweight and light coloured, offering good protection from the sun, while being able to offer good ventilation for sweat. It could be cold on the high mountains, especially in the winter. Waterproofs and windproofs may only be used rarely, so lightweight items will usually be fine. On sunny days, use sunscreen on exposed skin and wear a good sun hat. Bare limestone is very bright in the full sun, so consider taking sunglasses.
Water must be carried on hot days – a minimum of two litres. Guard against sunburn and heat exhaustion at all times, but be prepared for colder and wetter days too. If trekking along the GR221 and using hotel accommodation, little is needed apart from normal day-walking kit and a change of clothes. If using the refugis, add a wash-kit and towel, and maybe a sleeping bag, although bedding can be hired.
Backpackers should remember that there is only one campsite on the route. Carrying heavy loads in hot weather is exhausting, so if planning to wild-camp in the mountains, ensure that all your kit is lightweight, and that you are self-sufficient in food and water for overnight stops. Weather conditions in summer are seldom severe, but in winter be prepared for cold nights and wetter weather. Always know where the next shops are located on the route, resupplying as necessary and avoiding carrying too much too far.
Emergencies
Until 1995 there was only a voluntary mountain rescue service