Walking in the Drakensberg. Jeff Williams

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      Rock dassies also climb trees

      Leopard

      This magnificent animal is uncommon but widely distributed in the Drakensberg. It is rarely seen: not for nothing is it described as ‘the Prince of Stealth’. Powerfully built and amazingly catholic in its dietary habits, it lives in woodland and rocky outcrops and is included here because it is the only large predator in the Park. It poses no risk to walkers.

      Although not in the cat family, it is of interest that both spotted and brown hyaena have been captured recently on camera traps but sightings are very rare.

      There are a lot of snakes in Africa, some 170 species in southern Africa alone. However, tourists rarely see one and, if they do, it is unlikely to be venomous. More people in South Africa are killed by lightning than by snakes. The Berg does have its share of snakes and it is prudent to know something about them, in particular, what to do in the highly unlikely event of an ‘incident’. Visitors in the high summer months of December, January and February are the most likely to see a snake. By April they are preparing to hibernate and so may still be moving around looking for that last precious calorie for storage. It is more unusual to see one in May but by September they’re back.

      The three snakes described here are the only significantly venomous ones you might encounter.

      Puff Adder (Bitis arietans)

      Most snakes detect your approach by their highly-developed vibratory sense and make their escape before you see them. One exception is the Puff Adder, a slow-moving and bad-tempered piece of work who likes to bask in the sun and freezes rather than moving away, anticipating that excellent camouflage will save the day. It is a stout snake, yellow-brown in colour with black chevrons and a triangular head quite distinct from the body, some 90cm in length on average but sometimes much longer. Its venom is very potent and cytotoxic (cell destroying), and envenomation is serious. Death is rare but the bite, from the snake’s very large fangs, is hugely painful and tissue damage may occur, often severe enough to require grafting or even the loss of part of a limb. This snake is responsible for about 60 per cent of all serious snake bites in South Africa. It is rarely found above 2000m altitude.

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      Puff Adder

      Berg Adder (Bitis atropos)

      As the name suggests this is predominantly found on high-altitude rocky slopes and mountain grassland and is the most common Drakensberg snake. It is similar in appearance to the Puff Adder but less brightly coloured, without the chevrons, and much smaller, averaging 30cm and sometimes just 10–20cm. As bad-tempered as the Puff Adder, possibly even more so, it hisses loudly and strikes readily but tends to seek refuge much more quickly. Unusually for an adder it has a mildly neurotoxic venom (that is, affecting the nervous system) and specifically has an effect on the nerves controlling the muscles of the face and tongue. This manifests itself as drooping eyelids, double vision, dizziness and sometimes difficulty in swallowing. This is all very alarming but no deaths have been reported.

      Rinkhals (Hemachatus haemachatus)

      This is a bigger snake than the previous three, averaging more than 1m in length and similar to a cobra in appearance (but it isn’t one), spreading a ‘hood’ when threatened. In the Drakensberg it is often banded black and yellow or black and deep orange, with two or three distinct white bars on its chest only seen when it raises itself vertically from the ground which it does as a defensive posture. This is a scary moment. However, generally it tries to escape when disturbed. Like most cobras it has neurotoxic venom and its bite must be considered serious.

      It is unusual in two respects. Firstly it is a ‘spitting’ snake and can project venom for up to 3m very accurately towards the eyes. This is only harmful if it actually gets into the eyes (see ‘Immediate Action’ box, below). Secondly, it has a defensive tactic of playing dead (thanatosis), mouth often open with tongue hanging out. Don’t be fooled: it can be very convincing. Move away and never pick up apparently deceased serpents.

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      Rinkhals – a spitting snake

      The Drakensberg has an extensive bird list, often quoted as over 300 species. However, this includes vagrants and some birds that are only very rarely seen. Realistically, if any visitor ticks more than 200 species in the Drakensberg then she or he is doing well. For committed birders there are a number of ‘Drakensberg specials’, that is, species that are more easily seen here than elsewhere. At lower altitudes you will see a lot of birds wherever you walk, but fewer in autumn and winter than in spring and summer.

      Apart from the ubiquitous Cape Sparrows and Southern Grey-headed Sparrows you will see particularly Greater Double-collared Sunbirds, Red-winged Starlings, Cape White-eyes, White-necked Ravens, Hadeda Ibis and various doves almost everywhere. Many will find a bird identification book indispensable.

      Bearded Vulture

      Originally known as the Lammergeier, this is the most famous bird of the Drakensberg. There may only be 60 breeding pairs remaining. Here and neighbouring Lesotho are the only sites in South Africa where it can be seen.

      If you’re close the identification is straightforward. The black wings, orange-brown neck, underparts and legs, yellow eyes and red eye-ring are characteristic. The ‘beard’ is more of a black, drooping feathered moustache. In flight from underneath note the rich orange-brown underparts, black pointed wings and long, black, wedge-shaped tail. The birds feed on carrion which they drop repeatedly from a height onto rocks to break up the bones with their constituent marrow.

      This is a great and rare bird to see. A major conservation effort sponsored by KZN Wildlife is in place, which encourages observers to report sightings. (A copy of their promotional poster is reproduced with their permission on page 24.)

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      The frequently seen Greater Double-collared Sunbird

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      The endangered Bearded Vulture

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      Jackal Buzzard on the Sani Pass

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      The South African endemic Ground Woodpecker living up to its name

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      Glossy Berg Bottlebrush (Greyia sutherlandii) – a small tree with beautiful flowers on high rocky slopes

      Fortunately, most of the original Drakensberg habitat hasn’t changed significantly over the years, except in respect of the composition of some of the grassland. What you see today is to a large extent what was there a long time ago.

      Grassland, rich in flowering plants, accounts for more than half of the area. This is important

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