of salads, including warm goat’s cheese salad, as alternatives. There are a few restaurants along the canal that specialise in tarts and quiches and there is usually at least one vegetarian option. One of the best is at Castanet lock.
Restaurant closing times are strictly observed. You will find it hard to get lunch after 2.30pm and last orders for dinner aren’t usually accepted after 9.30pm.
Shops and markets
Shopping for food along the canal is a delight, in hypermarkets, supermarkets, small local stores, specialist shops, or from travelling vans and local producers. In addition there are markets, at least weekly, in most towns and large villages.
The boulangerie and patisserie form the cornerstones of village life, and villagers buy their bread and croissants fresh daily. Baguettes are excellent for picnics but will only stay fresh for a few hours.
Smaller shops open early in the morning at 7.30am and close between 12.30 and 4pm in the afternoon. They close in the evening around 6.30 or 7pm. Some may open on Sunday morning.
French markets are a blaze of colour and scents, with stallholders selling everything from fruit and vegetables to clothes and hardware. The markets normally start at 8am and finish at 12pm. There are some evening and night markets in summer, often as part of festivals. Markets are usually held in the main square or along the main street. Larger towns such as Béziers and Narbonne also have covered permanent enclosed food markets open in the morning only.
See Appendix C for detailed information about market days in the towns along the route.
There are markets in most towns and villages
Your bike
Bicycle bridge beside the road to Lastours (Excursion 2)
Buying or renting a bike
Bringing a bike on a plane can be difficult and expensive. It’s possible to buy second-hand bikes relatively cheaply in the major towns along the Canal du Midi. Obviously, choice will depend on availability; bikes may be in shorter supply in high season, pushing up the price and reducing choice.
Bikes are good value in France and you may decide to buy a new one there. Major stores such as Decathlon (www.decathlon.fr) and Intersport (www.intersport.fr) in or on the outskirts of the major cities and towns specialise in sports equipment. (Note that even the large outlets may not have your size or the model you want on the day that you visit.) You’ll find Decathlon and/or Intersport stores in Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne, Béziers and Agde. In addition there are bike shops along the route and these will carry a good range of models. Large supermarkets also stock bikes in summer.
You can hire bikes (location velo) in most centres along the canal. These vary from professional outfits to small operations with a limited supply. Boat hire companies usually offer bikes for hire to those renting boats from them. You should hire your bike from shops or agents who have their own mechanics and workshops, as otherwise hired bikes deteriorate during the season. Hiring a bike is a good option if you’re only planning to cycle for a day or two; however, the cost of bike hire has increased in recent years and it may be cheaper to buy a second-hand bike than hire one for a prolonged period.
Note: having hired or bought a bike, check which brake lever operates which brakes before you start to cycle!
There are specialist companies who offer holiday services, from simple bike hire through to a complete service including accommodation and baggage transport. They cater for individuals and groups. Companies such as Relax Rentals offer bikes, trailers and other cycling gear for rent. They also organise holidays, including the arrangement of accommodation and baggage transfer (www.relaxbiketours.com). Large UK tour companies offer this service through partners along the canal, but you can contact the local companies directly if you want a more tailored response.
Choosing the right type of bike
You can match parts of the routes in this guide to any type of bike. I’ve used most sorts on the towpath. The tarmac stretches from Toulouse to Port Lauragais and Béziers to Portiragnes are suitable for a racer or thin-wheeled training bike, which may also be used on the road excursions to St Ferréol and Minerve.
However, the bulk of the towpath is clay and bumpy; it can be cycled on a touring bike but an all-terrain bike (ATB) or hybrid is better. I prefer a bike with front suspension to absorb the constant bumps that might otherwise cause repetitive stress injury. A reasonable spread of gears is required if you make the excursions into the mountains. Good brakes are essential. Broader tyres (38mm upwards) are better for dealing with the rougher stretches. The path can become very muddy in wet weather and the heavy clay will collect on tyres with deep threads. Mud can clog brakes or immobilise wheels.
Consider using a bike with quick-release wheels, or fitting these if you’re bringing a bike that hasn’t got them already. Assume that you will suffer at least one puncture on the route. Quick-release wheels make it a lot easier to swap a tube or fix a puncture.
A comfortable saddle is essential: gel-filled saddles or gel-filled covers will absorb the harder knocks, and a suspension saddle serves the same purpose.
Fit a water bottle holder to your bike frame. These are easy to attach and most bikes have nuts for attaching them. Ensure that your bottle fits snugly into the holder.
Panniers, tool bag and handlebar bag are all useful
You’ll need a rear carrier if you use panniers. This should be strong enough to take the weight of your bags and a tent if you plan to camp. Most carriers support a maximum load of 20kg.
Fix front and back reflectors on your bike. Reflectors on your spokes are worth fitting too as roads are crossed regularly along the canal. Wear a high-visibility jacket in low light. Bring front and rear lights; it’s best to have detachable ones to avoid theft. However, the lights will be insufficient for cycling on the unlit stretches of the canal.
Looking after your bike
Get your bike serviced before you leave. A basic repair kit is essential and should include:
puncture repair kit
spanners and Allen keys to fit all nuts and bolts
pump (mini foot pump preferably)
spoke tightener
screwdriver matching the screws on your bike
two replacement tubes
replacement tyre
replacement spokes and screws.
Learn how to change a tube and tyre before you set out. Get your local bike shop to show you how to adjust your brakes and gears. Find out which nuts you need to tighten regularly; for example, you should check the nuts on your carrier daily as these can work loose and shear.
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