east of Granada, and while it is not inconceivable that they travel south, locals suggest the prints are more likely to be those of a wildcat.
Snakes including the ladder snake, horseshoe whip snake and Lataste’s viper can be encountered (see ‘General hazards’). Lizards will often be seen sunning themselves on the trails. The ocellated lizard was once traditional cuisine, but is now protected.
There are 270 unique species of insect, with over 100 endemic to these mountains. Most have adapted their life cycles to the extreme conditions; many have become darker, thicker and wingless, such as the endangered saddle bush-cricket.
The Sierra Nevada blue and the Apollo (considered an important endemic species), two of the 120 of butterfly species recorded in the region, are also endangered.
Climate and conditions
Stunning views from Puerto Molina (Route 5)
Misjudgment of the weather tends to be due to the changing of the seasons and the related mountain risks that brings. Traditionally, autumn and spring are the most unpredictable times, as it may be t-shirt and shorts weather on the Costa Tropical, yet people could well be fighting blizzard conditions at 3000m. A fine day on the coast can lead unprepared and ill-equipped people into the mountains.
Strangely enough, winter is more predictable. Most mountain-goers recognise the severe weather potential, and that at a bare minimum it will be very cold and windy. The Sierra Nevada does provide some reliable snow cover in the mountains from December to May.
Summer generally offers fine weather for high-level walking and trekking, when it is possible to travel light save for clothing required for the odd afternoon thunderstorm or cooling breezes.
One of the major benefits of the Sierra Nevada is the stability of its climate. Big high-pressure systems sit over the area for months at a time in summer, and sometimes for long periods during the winter months too. The downhill ski resort is said to be the sunniest ski resort in the world. Winter is the most unsettled and wettest period, though, and when bad weather does come in you can expect it to be generally heavy, violent and short-lived.
There are huge differences in temperature between the various seasons. At 3000m in January and February the air temperature (without wind chill) can frequently dip below -10ºC. In July and August a normal daytime temperature at 3000m would be 15–20ºC. This huge variability – not only between the seasons but also the tremendous altitude differences between the high mountains and the costas – is of course part of the attraction of the place!
Month by month
High on the west ridge, looking back to the peak of Boca de la Pesca (Route 17)
January and February have many cold, clear and sunny days but there always exists the possibility of some days with heavy snowfalls. Temperatures will be at their lowest in the mountains and so these months tend to provide extensive icing together with short daylight hours. Crampons and ice axe, and the ability to use them correctly, are essential.
March and April provide longer days and slightly warmer temperatures. History shows a week of prolonged bad weather during March or April. This late-season snowfall has the advantage of extending the snow and snowshoeing season well into May. Winter hillwalking can be excellent during these months. Crampons and ice axe are essential.
May can provide great snow-walking opportunities, although the snow pack softens markedly after midday. The snows are retreating fast up the mountain now and some routes to 3000m peaks are likely to be clear. There is still some risk of heavy rain showers, lessening towards the end of the month. Some sections of old hard snow will remain at the end of May, possibly necessitating the use of crampons for safe passage. Where such sections exist, notes are given in the route descriptions.
June until end of October provides generally stable mountain conditions. Sunny and warm, this period is especially suited to those looking for hot summer walking under clear blue skies. Walkers can travel light, with water being the heaviest and arguably the most necessary item in the rucksack. It is important to stay protected from the sun’s ultraviolet rays and to keep fully hydrated. During these months the heat can give rise to violent but short afternoon storms.
Showers and thunderstorms can move north from Morocco with plumes of very warm air. These, more often than not, are mid-level or high-level showers with bases around 3000m, sometimes below. The thunderstorms are triggered by the topography and movement over the mountains rather than being surface- and convection-based.
The weather phenomenon known as a gota fría (the cold drop) can occur in the autumn due to a mix of warm and cold air fronts. It is associated with extremely violent downpours, hail and storms, and can see wind speeds of over 100km/hour. Thankfully these are short-lived and not too common outbursts.
The first major snowfalls can arrive between the end of October and the end of November, and further falls in December will generally consolidate the snow pack for the remainder of the winter. In lean years it will be January before this consolidation process has occurred. This period provides very changeable weather and ground conditions: winter one day, spring the next, and back to autumn on day three.
Winter influences
The northern and eastern aspect of the Cerro del Caballo, seen from the east (Route 12)
From the west – fronts come in bringing wet weather, falling as snow on high ground above 2000m. This can bring heavy early-season powder, which usually means great news for the skiers but is not so good for road access into the mountains – nor for winter hillwalking, as it may necessitate the use of snowshoes and make things very arduous.
From the north, north east or north west – when these fronts arrive it will be very cold with overnight temperatures between -10ºC and -20ºC at 3000m. Needless to say the wind chill at these times can be arctic. Snow may fall down to 1000m and very occasionally below this.
From the south – the approach of a southerly front is followed by a quick increase in temperatures, bringing possible rain or a thaw at high altitudes. After the front has passed and the temperatures return to normal, the whole of the Sierra Nevada will become a ‘block of ice’, leading to potentially very dangerous conditions.
From the east – these fronts are infrequent but wet and give heavy snowfalls, especially to the eastern Sierra Nevada.
Getting to the Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada is very accessible and makes a good destination for last-minute weekend or short breaks as it is close to major airports and fast motorway networks.
Airports
Granada has the closest airport to the range, being only a 1hr drive from the ski area, and is very accessible for the Cumbres Verdes which are on its doorstep. Lanjarón, at the entrance to the Alpujarra, is only 45min away. Capileira, in the heart of the Alpujarra, is 1hr 45min away by car.
At the present time (2017) few airlines go there, besides Iberia/BA
