Germany, local waymarking is excellent but national waymarking variable. This is influenced by Germany’s federal structure of semi-independent lände (states), each of which has its own system. A national cycle network is in existence, although this often plays second fiddle to regional and local routes, with some signposts carrying the badges of many different routes. National route D8 follows the Rhine, mostly on the eastern (right) bank, and on some stages this is followed. The Rhein Radweg (RR) is waymarked using the Rheinradler symbol, a stylised yellow cyclist on a blue background with the wheels formed from the yellow stars of the European flag. In most lände, generic cycle route signposts have a white background, but the text colour varies (green in Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Rheinland-Pfalz and Hessen; red in Nordrhein-Westfalen).
French waymarking originally also used the Rheinradler to identify the Véloroute Rhin (VR), but almost all Rheinradler signposts have been replaced with EV15 waymarks.
Unsurprisingly, the Netherlands, a country with more cycles than people, has an excellent waymarked national cycle network known as Landelijkefiets routes (LF). Full details can be found at www.nederlandfietsland.nl. This guide uses parts of LF3 (Millingen to Arnhem, Stage 23), LF4 (Arnhem to Amerongen, Stage 24), LF11 (Ablasserdam to Rotterdam, Stage 26) and LF12 (Rotterdam to Hoek van Holland, Stage 27). Signposts include a or b after the route number to indicate direction. Where this guide does not use LF routes (Amerongen to Ablasserdam, stages 24–26), local signposting is excellent. In addition, there is a system of numbered knooppunten (nodal waypoints) with local maps on location boards throughout the country.
German cycle route sign with eight different routes shown
Maps
The only stand-alone maps of the whole route from source to Rotterdam plus Bodensee Radweg are published by Publicpress (www.publicpress.de), who produce a series of five laminated folding strip maps: 199, 302, 368, 333 and 569.
For Switzerland, including the part of the route across the river in Germany and the northern side of Bodensee, detailed maps of R2, at any scale you wish, can be downloaded from www.veloland.ch.
For France, Esterbauer Bikeline publish two sheets at 1:75,000 (Radkarte Elsass Süd and Elsass Nord) covering the route from Basel to north of Karlsruhe.
For Germany, Bikeline publish a map at 1:75,000 covering Bodensee, one covering Konstanz to Basel, three maps covering the stretch from Karlsruhe to Koblenz and one covering Düsseldorf to Millingen: sheets BW08, BW13, BW03, RPF06, HES4 and NRW3. Publicpress publish six sheets at 1:100,000 covering the route from Karlsruhe to Millingen: sheets 168, 120, 576, 157, 228 and 166. Bikeline maps contain more detail and are more accurate.
For the Netherlands both ANWB (Dutch automobile association) and Falk/VVV (Dutch tourist office) publish a series of 1:50,000 fietskaarten (cycle maps) covering the whole country. The route between Millingen and Hoek van Holland is covered by ANWB sheets 10, 15 and 14, with a very short section on sheet 11; or Falk/VVV sheets 11 and 15. Both sets of maps provide good coverage. The ANWB maps are the most recommended.
Most of these maps as well as the guidebooks below are available from leading bookshops including Stanfords in London (www.stanfords.co.uk) and the Map Shop, Upton upon Severn (www.themapshop.co.uk). Relevant maps are widely available en route. See Appendix E for more contact information.
Other guidebooks
Bikeline publish a three-volume series of Radtourenbücher und Karte (cycle tour guidebooks with maps) in German covering the route from the source to Rotterdam but excluding the route around Bodensee’s northern shore (Stage 5), that through Karlsruhe (stages 12 and 13) and the long section across the Netherlands from Amerongen to Ablasserdam (stages 24–26). These include strip maps at 1:75,000 with volume 1 covering Andermatt to Basel, volume 2 Basel to Mainz and volume 3 Mainz to Rotterdam. A separate book describes the Bodensee Radweg. (www.esterbauer.com)
Although neither a map nor guidebook, a topographic strip map of the Rhine from Bodensee to Rotterdam produced by Rahmelverlag (www.rahmel-verlag.de) gives a good overall impression of the route and makes an attractive souvenir. It is published in several languages, including English, and is sold in gift shops along the route, particularly in Rüdesheim and Boppard.
Accommodation
Hotels, inns, guest houses and bed & breakfast
For most of the route there is a wide variety of accommodation. Hotels vary from expensive five-star properties to modest local establishments. Hotels and inns usually offer a full meal service, guest houses do sometimes. B&Bs, which in Germany and Switzerland can be recognised by a sign zimmer frei (rooms available), generally offer only breakfast. Tourist information offices will normally telephone for you and make local reservations. After hours, many tourist offices display a sign outside showing local establishments with vacancies. Booking ahead is seldom necessary, except on popular stages in high season, but it is advisable to start looking for accommodation soon after 1600. Most properties are cycle-friendly and will find you a secure overnight place for your pride and joy.
Prices vary between countries, with Switzerland the most expensive. On stages following the Swiss–German border, it is cheaper to cross to the German side of the river for overnight accommodation. Compared with equivalent accommodation in the UK, Swiss and Dutch rooms are more expensive, Austrian, French and German rooms are around the same. One unusual way of overnighting in Switzerland is schlafen im stroh (sleeping in the hay), where you stay in a haybarn, often on a remote farm. To use this facility you need a sleeping bag and torch. It is strictly no smoking of course!
Hay barn in Switzerland used for ‘schlaf im stroh’ (Stage 2)
Bett+Bike
This is a German scheme run by ADFC (German cycling club), which has registered over 5000 establishments providing cycle-friendly accommodation. It includes a wide variety of properties, from major hotels to local B&Bs, listed by state in an annually updated guidebook. Participating establishments display a Bett+Bike sign. For more information visit www.bettundbike.de.
Youth hostels and backpackers
Rüdesheim youth hostel sits among the vineyards of Rheingau (Stage 16)
There are 40 official youth hostels (YH), many in historic buildings, on or near the route (six are in Switzerland, one in Liechtenstein, one in Austria, 29 in Germany, one in France and two in the Netherlands). These are listed in Appendix D. To use a German youth hostel you need to be a member of an association affiliated to Hostelling International. If you are not a member you will be required to join the local association. Rules vary from country to country but generally hostels accept guests of any age, although visitors over 27 may face a small surcharge (€3 in Germany). Rooms vary from single-sex dormitories to family rooms of two to six beds. Unlike British hostels, most continental European hostels do not have self-catering facilities but do provide good-value hot meals. Hostels get very busy, particularly
