Mountain Walking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon
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Follow the track towards a prominent red and white mast, but pass below it, rather than climbing to it. Watch carefully for a series of vague paths on the right, mostly marked with little cairns. All of these lead up to a rocky crest touching 300m. However, stay on the track for the time being, descending gently then climbing steeply a short way. It ends just below a trig point on Pintal Vermell, at 312m (1024ft). There are splendid views to the island of sa Dragonera, Sant Elm and the mountains beyond.
Double back along the track and turn left up one of the cairned paths to cross the rocky crest. Scout around to find a splendid mountain path which cuts across the natural breach of Pas Vermell, easily avoiding fearsome overhanging cliffs. The path then drops through a well-worn groove, passing pines and càrritx to reach a track. Turning right offers a shortcut to the village of s’Arracó to catch a bus.
Pas Vermell offers an easy route past a sheer cliff face
Turn left and follow the bendy track down into a forest. Stay on the main track, passing a junction on a pronounced hairpin bend. When another junction is reached, spot ‘S Elm’ painted on a rock, indicating a right turn.
After a steeper descent among taller pines there are three opportunities to turn right in close succession. Take the last of these, which should be marked by a small cairn and paint marks. Quickly turn left and a cable should be stretched across the track to exclude vehicles. Rise gently along the track to reach a little house called sa Pineta.
Continue down past small fields, and the track is later patched with concrete, with fine views of sa Dragonera and Sant Elm. Pass a chain, continue down to a junction and turn right along a forest track. Emerge into a field and turn left along a path, then go through a gap in a wall, briefly back into forest. Cross a road at the gateway to Castell de Sant Elm, also known as the Torre de Sant Elm.
Originally operating as a quarantine hospital from 1342 until 1597, the building then became a watchtower. It was bought by Archduke Lluis Salvador in 1868. It was renovated in 1995 by the Fundació Illes Balears and now serves as a secluded luxury hotel.
Continue along a track and turn left down a flight of concrete steps. Turn right along a road, passing the Hotel Aquamarin to reach a road junction and bus stop beside a sandy beach at Sant Elm.
WALK 3
Sant Elm, La Trapa and s’Arracó
Start | Plaça de Mossen Sebastià, Sant Elm |
Finish | Roundabout, s’Arracó |
Distance | 13km (8 miles) |
Total ascent | 570m (1870ft) |
Total descent | 500m (1640ft) |
Time | 5hrs |
Terrain | Forested slopes give way to a steep, rocky slope that includes a section of mild scrambling where there may be a rope for protection. Paths climb higher, linking with tracks that allow for an easy descent. |
Map | Alpina Serra Tramuntana Sud |
Refreshment | Plenty of choice at Sant Elm and s’Arracó |
Transport | Buses serve Sant Elm and s’Arracó from Andratx |
The walk from Sant Elm to La Trapa starts easily and is popular, but the upper parts are steep and rocky. A small community of Trappist monks settled in that remote place. The site is in ruins but there is a plan to restore part of it as a refugi. Paths can be followed higher to ses Basses, enjoying a wild and remote area, then a descent leads to the pleasant and quiet village of s’Arracó.
Leave the last bus stop in Sant Elm, on Plaça de Mossen Sebastià Grau. Head inland from es Molí restaurant, where there is an old windmill, following Avinguda de La Trapa uphill. The road runs into forest and gives way to a dirt road called Camí Can Tomeví. Keep straight ahead at a junction in the forest, eventually passing near the solitary house of Can Tomeví.
Watch for a marker post for La Trapa and walk straight ahead on a bare, rocky path criss-crossed with tree roots. Simply follow a well-trodden path up the forested slope, passing a pair of old gate pillars and crossing other tracks. Little cairns and occasional paint marks show the way, while other paths may be blocked by branches or lines of stones. Climb past old terraces then drift left along the foot of rugged cliffs as the pines become sparse.
An easy stone-buttressed terrace path overlooks a secluded boulder-beach at Cala en Basset, with sa Dragonera in view beyond. The scrub includes rock roses, spiky broom and càrritx. The terrace gives way to a steep and rocky slope where hands must be used for mild scrambling, and one part might have a rope for protection.
Cross a rocky shoulder at 300m (985ft), pass a noticeboard and look down on old buildings and former cultivation terraces at La Trapa. Follow a path in that direction and cross a ladder stile to reach an access track.
LA TRAPA
The ruined buildings of La Trapa and the island of sa Dragonera
A community of Trappist monks, first expelled from Normandy in France in 1789, then expelled from Zaragoza in Spain in 1808, settled in this remote valley in 1810. One monk was elected to trade with the outside world and was obliged to live separately. The site was abandoned in 1820, sold in 1853 and fell into ruins after serving as a farm. It was purchased in 1980, along with the surrounding land, by a birdwatching and environmental organisation, Grup Ornitològic Balear. Disaster struck in 1994, and again in 2013, when fires destroyed the forested upland. Trees have been replanted, but will take decades to mature. Old drystone terraces and the irrigation system have been restored. Plans to provide refugi accommodation have stalled.
To explore the site, simply walk down the track, passing the former monastery to reach a nearby mill. Walk down to a bare circular area that was an era, or threshing floor, but now bears tall pines. A little further downhill is a mirador with a fine view of sa Dragonera, explored on Walk 1. Double back uphill to continue the walk.
Follow the zigzag access track uphill from La Trapa. A signpost and a marker post indicate that this is the way to ses Basses, but be sure to leave the track on a bend to follow a narrow path onwards. It is possible to follow the track over a gap and short-cut back down to Sant Elm. Pass occasional burnt and toppled pines among the dense scrub, then pass a noticeboard. Follow the path as it climbs gradually past old terraces in Vall de Sant Josep, becoming steeper and more rugged.
There is no sign of habitation in any direction as the path reaches 450m (1475ft) on the open slopes of Puig de ses Basses. When a large cairn is reached, turn left to follow a short path to the Mirador d’en Josep Sastre, for a fine view of sa Dragonera, then return to the cairn to continue.