in bunches. Look for bright green ones. They should be firm and dry, with crisp lower ends that snap if bent. Avoid any that have rotted and become “slimy.” Spring onions or Western chives can be substituted but they will not give the same distinctive garlicky aroma and flavour.
Ginger flower is an edible, amazingly perfumed herb with exquisite aromas of floral ginger and lemony rose and a musk-and-strawberry sweetness. This spectacular flower is uncommon in countries outside the tropics. Look for this flower in Asian markets. Choose fresh-looking buds without too much wilting or browning at the edges. If unavailable, substitute a mixture of lemongrass and young ginger slices.
Hoisin sauce is a Chinese sauce recognised and used throughout Asia as the universal barbecue sauce. It is made from red rice brewed with soybean paste, garlic, sugar, five spice powder and star anise. Basic hoisin sauce is usually very sweet, although some brands have a spicier version, with more chilli paste added. Hoisin sauce is sold in bottles, jars or cans in Asian markets and supermarkets. There are many varieties of hoisin sauce, so read the labels and decide the one for your use.
Jicama, also known as bang-kuang or yam bean, has a short root and a thin papery skin that can be peeled off easily to reveal a white flesh inside that tastes like a juicy nashi pear. It is often sliced into salads as it remains crunchy without “weeping” when acidic dressings are added and does not discolour when exposed to air. Peel the skin and slice the flesh into large pieces, then slice again diagonally. Depending on the recipe, substitute apple or pear.
Kaffir lime leaves are prized for their distinctive incense-like aroma and sharp citrus oils. They are used in soups and curries of Thai, Malay or Indonesian origin. They are also thinly sliced and used as a garnish. Buy them fresh or frozen or dried—the fresh or frozen leaves are much more fragrant.
Lemongrass is a highly aromatic herb. Use only the inner part of the thick bulb of the stem (the bottom one-third of the stem). Peel off and discard the tough outer leaves to get to the portion, then bruise, slice, chop or grind as directed in the recipe.
Mint, sometimes called Moroccan mint, has dark-green, crinkly round leaves. Look for fresh leaves on green stems, with strong aromas of mint.
Mushrooms are grown commercially throughout Asia and are highly sought after. Dried black Chinese mushrooms are similar to shiitake mushrooms but must be soaked in water before use. Large o yster mushrooms are available fresh or in cans.
Noodles are a universal favourite in Asia. Dried rice vermicelli (beehoon or mifen) are very fine rice threads that must be plunged into hot water to soften before use. Rice stick noodles (also known as “river noodles”, kway teow or hofun) are wide, flat rice noodles sold fresh in Asian markets. If not available, use dried rice stick noodles instead.
Oyster sauce is one of the earliest sauces used in Chinese cooking, brewed from the natural salting of fish or oysters in seaside areas. Today this sauce is made from dried oysters mixed with salt and sugar that caramelises into a flavoursome end product. A vegetarian version— mushroom oyster sauce —is flavoured with gluten and mushrooms rather than oyster extract. To shop for the best oyster sauce, look for a rich, thick, dark brown sauce with a strong oyster flavour. Check the label to see what it contains—many oyster sauces contain added MSG.
Palm sugar is distilled from the sap of various palm fruits and varies in colour from golden to dark brown. It is usually sold as a solid block or cylinder. It has a rich flavour similar to dark brown sugar or maple sugar, which make good substitutes.
Tamarind is the fruit of the tamarind tree and grows in a long seed pod. The dried pulp is sold in packets or jars and generally still has some seeds and pod fibres mixed in with the pulp. It is used as a souring agent in many dishes.
Turmeric is similar to ginger but with a bright yellow colour and a more pungent flavour. It has antiseptic and astringent qualities and stains everything permanently, so scrub your knife blade, hands and chopping board immediately after handling. Purchase fresh turmeric root as needed as the flavour fades after a few days. Substitute 1 teaspoon turmeric powder for 2.5 cm (1 in) of the fresh root.
Basic Recipes
Basic recipes are just that: simple recipes for cooks that will make life simpler in the kitchen. It is what every experienced cook knows and what every beginner would like to know. Simple stock recipes and pastes are included. It all seems like common sense until you have to do it yourself. I have included instructions for cooking rice as I did not know how to do this, when I was married. I produced a fabulous dinner but had to ask my husband to show me how to cook the rice—and he never stopped reminding me about it!
Garlic Oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice (from grated fresh ginger)
1 tablespoon oil
1 Combine all the ingredients in a bowl, mixing them well.
2 Set aside to infuse for 30 minutes before using.
Makes 3 tablespoons
Preparation time: 5 mins + 30 mins to infuse
Sambal Oelek Chilli Paste
The action of grinding a chilli paste is “oelek” or “ulek” in Malay. Commercial brands like the Indonesian ABC brand are good, but this sauce is so simple to make that you should try it. Remember to bring it to boiling point, then allow to cool before storing.
1 onion, sliced
5 cloves garlic
2.5-cm (1-in) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
12 red finger-length chillies, deseeded
2 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon shaved palm sugar or dark brown sugar
⅓ cup (100 ml) vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt, to taste
1 Grind the onion, garlic, ginger and chillies in a food processor or mortar to a smooth paste.
2 Heat the oil in a frying pan
