dry in autumn and spring (except for a short pre-summer rainy season and post-summer typhoon season); and in winter mostly dry but with temperatures dropping only into single digits away from the mountains.
Thatched buildings at Oshino with Mount Fuji in the background
People
At last count, in 2017, Japan’s population was 126 million, of which around 35 million live in the Greater Tokyo area comprised of Tokyo and the neighboring prefectures of Chiba, Kanagawa and Saitama. Approximately 98.5% of the population is Japanese; the rest is made up primarily of Korean (5%) and Chinese (4%). The Japanese are the longest-living people in the world with an average life expectancy of 84.19 years (80.85 for men and 87.71 for women), yet the population is declining as the country also claims the world’s second lowest birthrate.
Shinkyo-bashi in Nikko
Language
The official language of Japan is Japanese. Besides Japanese, Okinawa has its own related but minor Ryukyuan languages, while the indigenous Ainu people of Hokkaido have the unrelated Ainu language. Japanese is the first language of 99% of the Japanese population, and with three separate writing systems (kanji, hiragana and katakana) that between them use thousands of different characters, not to mention a complex system of honorifics, it isn’t the easiest language to quickly get to grips with. Not that you need to worry. In the main cities and tourist areas, you will be able to get by in English. Head out into the countryside, however, and you won’t want to forget your phrasebook. To help make the language barriers a little less daunting, a survival guide to Japanese is included on pages 122–4, which covers useful expressions and pronunciation.
Religion
Because of the traditional rituals used for birth and death, the Japanese often say that they are born Shinto but die Buddhist. In fact, it’s easier to consider the two religions as forming one set of traditional practices rather than being separate or conflicting faiths. Some 84% of Japanese say they practice traditions related to Shintoism, the indigenous religion of Japan, while 71% practice those related to Buddhism, which arrived from China in the 6th century. However, the Japanese don’t typically consider themselves to be religious: more than 80% profess no religious affiliation and about 65% don’t believe in God or Buddha.
The annual Doburoku festival in Shirakawa-go
Government
Japan is a parliamentary government with a constitutional monarchy, the current constitution having been adopted in 1947. Emperor Akihito is the chief of state, while the prime minister, as of writing Shinzo Abe, is the head of state. The legislative branch of government, the Diet, consists of a 242-member House of Councilors and a 450-member House of Representatives. The prime minister is designated by the Diet, and is usually the leader of the majority party or majority coalition in the House of Representatives.
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT
For most visitors, Japan begins with Tokyo. But where do you start in a city that has so much to offer? If jetlag wakes you before sunrise the first morning, go straight to Tsukiji Market (page 11), where the frenetic market and great sushi will jolt you into life like a triple espresso. After that, take to the streets of nearby Ginza for its famed department stores, boutiques and high-end restaurants.
The next day, explore the city’s old east side, starting with Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa (page 9) before moving to the Ueno district (page 29) for several of the city’s best museums and Ueno Park. On day three, take in the magnificent Meiji Jingu Shrine (page 33) and neighboring Yoyogi Park before a change of pace among the teenyboppers of Harajuku and the fashionistas of Omotesando-dori (page 32). Another day could be spent first browsing the electronics and otaku (geek subculture) stores in Akihabara (page 28), then plunging into the crowded streets of Shinjuku (page 33)–the epitome of brash, modern Tokyo–or the more stylish Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown urban developments in Roppongi (page 10).
Whatever you do, don’t limit yourself to Tokyo, as mesmerizing as the city can be. Make an effort to get out of the capital and discover the incredible diversity of the rest of Japan. If time is limited, opt for a day trip to Kamakura (page 36), the 13th-century capital, and take in the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Hase’s Kotoku-in Temple (page 12). With a little more time available, head a couple of hours north to the World Heritage Tosho-gu Shrine in Nikko (page 13), the outrageously lavish complex built by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the man who united Japan and became the first shogun of the Edo era. Consider combining that with a night at a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan. Alternatively, take a train just under two hours west to Hakone (page 39) for a soak in one of the area’s many natural outdoor hot springs and for superb views of majestic Mount Fuji (page 14).
The Shinkansen train tracks have been extended to the seaside city of Kanazawa (page 42), notable for its castle grounds and adjacent park, Kenroku-en (page 16), formerly the estate of the castle’s Lord Maeda. The city boasts some of Japan’s most delectable seafood in its famous Omi-cho market. The Japan Sea coastal area also is noted for its many hot springs, such as the Yamashiro Onsen (page 45), tempting for fans in need of a little luxurious bathing.
The Japan Alps are Japan’s backbone, with the country’s highest peaks, famed for their beauty, varied woods, wild flowers and, of course, snow. The nation has hundreds of serious mountain climbing groups, so trails exist over the three ranges, but the paths across the lower foothills lure thousands of ordinary citizens during the hot summer months. The centuries-old post towns of Nakasendo (page 98) are sprinkled along ancient paths traversing the steep terrain, a reminder of the once rugged lifestyles of the inhabitants of these steep valleys. Old inns that served as way stations for travelers now serve the modern hiker who emerges from the surrounding woodlands in search of a little sustenance. Kamikochi (page 98) is a 1,500-meter (4,900-foot) highland national park with nature trails and a campground with access to higher peaks. The narrow roads and deep winter snows close the area between mid-November and the end of March, but when open, the pristine air and alpine setting are absolutely addictive.
Better still, try to schedule at least a week exploring other parts of the country, starting with a few days in the former capital of Kyoto (page 47), the cultural yin to Tokyo’s modern yang. The city’s 17 World Heritage Sites include the decadently gilded temple of Kinkaku-ji (page 17) and the contrasting simplicity of Ryoan-ji Temple’s dry landscape garden (page 50). Kyoto also makes a good base for exploring other important sites in the Kansai region, for example, a day trip to the ancient temples of Nara (page 54), Japan’s capital before Kyoto, or Osaka (page 56), Japan’s second largest city. Looking farther afield, you could use Kyoto as a staging post en route to the atmospheric Mount Koya (page 23), home to some 120 monasteries of the Shingon sect of Buddhism.
If you still have time, extend your trip to Shikoku (page 62) for two or three days to visit the
