that the Jewish community has its own recipes, like chicken pâté, potato pastilla or stuffed mutton intestine, Muslims were also proud of their own cuisine that was similar to that of nearby Fes. But inhabitants of Meknes are supposedly stingy with their wealth and it is no accident that one of their specialties is called “the hen has flown.” Guests are promised a dish of chicken and garbanzo beans but what a surprise to see plates served only with beans! When the host is asked where the meat is, he invariably replies that the hen has flown off.
Rabat, the modem capital, has attracted many guests to its table. If the bazaars are not as showy as those of Fes or Marrakech, it is because the city prefers calm and modernity. Here reigns the cuisine of the makhzen, the official cuisine that has ties to every region of Morocco and the neighboring countries. Home cooking, rich and varied, is in every way astonishing. Some recipes are carefully guarded secrets like the famous bal farkh couscous made with sea bass.
A coastal city, Rabat shares the secrets of the sea with the other coastal towns of Assafi and Essaouira, but Rabat has no equal when it comes to cooking shad, a fish similar to the sardine. Assafi and Essaouira are famous for serving baddaz, couscous made from sweet com, garnished with conger eel heads, and fried moray eal with honey.
In Rabat, you will also find kaak, a delicious cake, or zemata, a dish made with seeds (in Oujda, the town on the Algerian border, it is made with young wheat and covered with figs.)
Although the city of Tetouan is not strictly speaking an imperial city, its history renders it indispensable. In its vast memory reside the splendors of Muslim Andalousia, its riches, and its subtle perfumes. A direct heir to the culinary traditions of Grenada, Teotouan is also one of the only Moroccan cities to have been subjected to the influence of the Ottomans as the presence of bakhlava and ktaifs attests, giving a special accent to border and coastal towns. We should also mention the pastilla of chicken with preserved lemons.
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