Green Mangoes and Lemon Grass. Wendy Hutton
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chicken soup with lime, chilies & basil s'ngao muon
If you're looking for a tangy soup as a foil to rich food (such as seafood or meat cooked in coconut milk, or fried fish or meat), this clear chicken soup is just the thing. It has lots of lime juice and Asian basil, with a few hot chilies for extra zing. You can make it in advance, and re-heat just before serving. (Incidentally, I find it intriguing that the name for this type of sour Cambodian soup, S'ngao, is almost the same as the Filipino equivalent, which is called Sinigang.)
1 lb (500 g) chicken pieces (breast and thigh), skinned but left whole wit h the bones still intact
6 cups (1.5 liters) water
2 stems lemon grass, botto m 7 in (18 cm), bruised and cut in 3-4 pieces
2 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
2-4 red or green bird's-eye chilies, bruised
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons fish sauce
salt to taste
3-4 tablespoons lime juice
½ cup loosely packed Asian basil leaves, coarsely chopped
Put the chicken, water, lemon grass, garlic, chilies, and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Partially cover the pan and simmer for 5 minutes, removing any scum that rises to the surface. Cover the pan completely and simmer gently until the chicken is cooked, 25 to 30 minutes.
When the chicken is cooked, leave it in the stock until cool enough to handle (if you're in a hurry, you can remove it from the stock to cool). Remove the lemon grass pieces from the stock and discard. Shred the chicken meat, then return it to the stock. If you're preparing the soup well in advance, cool, then refrigerate the soup until required.
Shortly before serving, heat the soup, add the fish sauce, salt, and lime juice to taste, then add the basil. Stir and immediately transfer to a serving bowl.
Serves: 4-6 Preparation time: 15 min Cooking time: 30 min
spicy beef soup tom yam neua
A Thai girlfriend taught me how to make this soup back in the early days when I was just beginning to learn about Thai food and thought that soups began and ended with the ubiquitous Tom Yam Kung, the hot sour soup made with prawns. I think this beef soup — which has similar seasonings — is just as good, and in areas where prawns are expensive or hard to find, an excellent alternative. Saw-tooth coriander looks like a wide blade of grass with serrated edges; if you can't find it, regular coriander leaf is fine.
4 cups (1 liter) water
2 stems lemon grass, bottom 7 in (18 cm) only, bruised and cut in 4-5 pieces
1¼ in (3 cm) galangal, thinly sliced
4-5 kaffir lime leaves, torn
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